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Sunday 22 December 2019

No. 9: The Suit Returns, Triumphs Over Streetwear; Minimalism Rules Women’s Wear

This was the year of the suit. From Kim Jones’ elegant silk sashes on evening suits at Dior Men to Haider Ackermann’s pearl number made viral by Timothée Chalamet at the Venice Film Festival, men’s wear saw the return of a more tailored and put-together look for both seasons presented in 2019. Buyers at the Paris men’s shows in January unanimously called out a sartorial shift: Tailoring returned as a fashion statement. Shown often in black, gray, or a heritage men’s wear fabrication, the suit was updated with fluid constructions and personal styling to feel modern for today’s consumer, with designers exploring new cuts, fabrics and styles to reinvent the age-old classic. Forget Savile Row-type three-pieces: the suit in 2019 explored new territories and flirted with gender fluidity, as demonstrated by Paris-based Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s see-through organza numbers. When shown on the runway in Paris last June, the transparent organza suits were stuck to the skin of the drenched models, who were sprayed with water before stepping on the catwalk, suggestively clinging onto every curve — a whole new approach to tailoring, unarguably NSFW. At Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh explored tailoring for both seasons, albeit in notably different directions. The designer sent a

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