What’s in a Name?
Jaws dropped when Raf Simons was tapped to become chief creative officer of Calvin Klein’s men’s and women’s brands in 2016. They dropped even further when he and the brand parted ways a little over two years later. Simons’ departure followed a blunt assessment by Emanuel Chirico, chairman and chief executive officer of Calvin Klein’s parent company, PVH Corp., that the designer’s high-end collections for the brand’s 205W39NYC line were not working and needed to be more commercial. Simons has not been replaced, the halo collection with the numeric name has been shuttered after receiving a $60 million-to-$70 million investment, and the brand is focusing on its lower-priced — and commercially viable — jeans, underwear and main-floor collections, many of which are produced under license by G-III Apparel Corp. Raf Simons was the creative director of Calvin Klein for just over two years. Swan Gallet/WWD/Shutterstock More recently, Perry Ellis designer Michael Maccari also left his position after overseeing the creative direction of that brand since 2013. He, too, has yet to be replaced and the line is being designed by an internal team. Both of these high-profile departures from well-known brands beg a question: When does a designer label no longer need a designer? In the caseFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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