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Sunday, 31 March 2019
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EXCLUSIVE: Chloé to Show Resort Collection in Shanghai on June 5

PARIS — Chloé is heading east. The French fashion house plans to unveil its resort collection in Shanghai on June 5, marking Natacha Ramsay-Levi’s first personal appearance in China since being appointed creative director in 2017, WWD has learned. “It’s the first time Chloé is staging a catwalk show outside Paris in the history of the house,” said Geoffroy de la Bourdonnaye, chief executive officer of Chloé. While it will also mark the first time Chloé shows a pre-collection on the runway, de la Bourdonnaye said the event was a one-off, for now. “It is not a strategy to necessarily stage a show for the pre-collection. It was more: We want to do something special in China for the Chinese Chloé girls,” he explained. The resort season has become an important showcase for luxury brands, with houses including Chanel, Dior, Prada and Louis Vuitton staging major shows. Ramsay-Levi was in Shanghai in January to draw inspiration for the show, said de la Bourdonnaye, emphasizing that the idea originated with its local team. “One-hundred percent of the Chloé organization in China is Chinese,” he noted. It’s an important distinction in the wake of the recent cancellation of Dolce & Gabbana’s planned tribute to China last November, which

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Dior Expands Beach Collection With Dedicated Dioriviera Spaces

J’ADIOR LA MER: Dior is expanding its beach collection with the opening of dedicated Dioriviera spaces from mid-May in 44 points of sale worldwide. Eight stores will carry merchandise, including T-shirts and tote bags, bearing the name of the destination where they are sold. These branded products will be available in pop-ups in Porto Cervo, Forte dei Marmi, Mykonos and Ibiza, and Dior boutiques in Saint-Tropez, Marbella, Capri and Portofino. Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director for women’s wear at Dior, has beefed up the capsule line with graphic pieces inspired by Toile de Jouy and Ballets Russes costumes. Accessories such as the Dior Book Tote, Walk’n’Dior sneakers and woven bracelets feature the name of founder Christian Dior. The Porto Cervo, Forte dei Marmi and Mykonos pop-ups will run from mid-May to late September, while a new temporary space in Ibiza will be open from early June to September. A selection of products will go on sale online in Europe and the U.S. from May 11. Dior introduced the beach collection at its pop-up store in Mykonos last year, joining the ranks of luxury brands courting customers in summer holiday destinations with in-season merchandise and convenient temporary locations. Pietro Beccari, chairman and chief executive officer of

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Why Were So Many Familiar Models Walking the Milan Runways?

MILAN — On some runways in Milan, it almost felt like a high school reunion of sorts. But the sight of familiar and more inclusive models was actually just a sign of the times as a wave of diversity swept over the city during Fashion Week. Case in point, Shalom Harlow and Stephanie Seymour bookended the Versace fall 2019 show, attended also by Amber Valletta, sitting front row. Donatella Versace said that, working on the fall collection, she wanted to “create something innovative and relevant to the cultural conversation of today.” At the same time, it needed to be “instantly recognizable” as Versace. Asking Seymour to close the show was an immediate decision for the designer. “An icon in the true sense of the word, but at the same time the emblem of my woman. Confident, daring, strong, smart,” said Versace of the model, who rose to supermodel-dom also thanks to the the Italian fashion house in the Eighties and Nineties. Etro staged its fall 2019 show at the Conservatorio Giuseppe Verdi, Italy’s largest music academy, and models including Edie Campbell, Alek Wek, Farida Khelfa, Jacquetta Wheeler, Liisa Winkler, Tasha Tilberg, Tatjana Patitz, Violetta Sanchez, Guinevere Van Seenus, Delfine Bafort, Adut Akech Bior,

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EXCLUSIVE: Carine Roitfeld Becomes ‘Style Adviser’ to Karl Lagerfeld Brand

Carine Roitfeld will help extend Karl Lagerfeld’s formidable fashion legacy by becoming a style adviser to his namesake fashion house, WWD has learned. Clarifying its creative succession in the wake of the German designer’s death on Feb. 19, the fast-growing Lagerfeld company said Roitfeld would work in tandem with design director Hun Kim, who had been handpicked by Lagerfeld and has been working quietly behind the scenes since August 2015. Roitfeld’s new role at Lagerfeld is effective immediately and runs for three seasons. Pier Paolo Righi, chief executive officer of Karl Lagerfeld, noted the collaboration was forged in the spirit of the founder’s penchant for freelancing, and could be extended. One of France’s best-known and accomplished stylists and editors, Roitfeld had collaborated with Lagerfeld closely for the last 15 years, from his groundbreaking one-off collaboration with H&M in 2004 that set the template for high-low fashion tie-ups, to book projects and advertising campaigns for Chanel and, more recently, the Karl brand. In fact, it was she who suggested Lagerfeld put his face on a T-shirt in that famous H&M collection, propelling his fame to new heights and foreshadowing that the designer’s graphic personal style and likeness would become a key ingredient of success at

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Investors Pumping More Money Into Retail Start-ups

Fashion’s funding lifeline is still securely connected to the start-up crowd. The private sector is hot with innovation and disruptors that offer consumers new products and a fresh take on things.  And venture capital firms and other investors are pumping hundreds of millions of dollars into names such as Edie Parker, b8ta, Cuyana, ThirdLove, Rebag, Rockets of Awesome and Bandier. In a research note, Wells Fargo analyst Ike Boruchow looked at data from Pitchbook and found 38 digitally native retail companies that collectively raised roughly $1.2 billion in the first quarter, making them a bigger threat to traditional retailers. “Though revenue figures for many of these companies are unknown, the average [estimated value]/sales multiple for companies with known revenue figures was [five times] in Q1,” Boruchow said. Goat, Casper, Glossier and Rent the Runway, all had more than $100 million in investments in the last two months. Luxury online fashion reseller Farfetch paid $250 million for sneaker reseller Stadium Goods in January. Four companies — Glossier, FabFitFun, Rent the Runway and Casper — raised enough money during the first quarter to push them into an elite group of “unicorns,” or companies with an implied valuation of at least $1 billion. “There’s been a

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Aerin Lauder Opens Pop-up Store on Melrose Place in Los Angeles

Lifestyle maven Aerin Lauder arrived in Los Angeles last week on a cloud of Aegea Blossom to open her first pop-up shop on the leafy retail thoroughfare Melrose Place. Lauder’s expertise in curating a store was evidenced by the Instagram-ready tables and shelves in the retail jewel box, filled with her own beauty products and fragrances (Aegea Blossom with its SoCal-appropriate notes of jasmine, orange flower and neroli is the latest), as well as statement earrings by Rebecca de Ravenel and Mercedes Salazar and Aerin branded sunglasses, sandals, decorative wicker knickknacks, serving trays and decorating books, including her own “Beauty at Home.” Lauder, whose brand encompasses lighting, home decor and tabletop, as well as beauty and accessories, has permanent stores in East Hampton and Southampton, N.Y., and Palm Beach. But this is the first pop-up concept, which will be open through April, offering a slate of customer activities, including perfume bottle hand-painting, engraving, custom fragrance blending and trunk shows with Blazé Milano and other brands. In addition to her full beauty and accessories ranges, the store stocks a curated-to-L.A. selection of clothing, with Borgo de Nor floral dresses, Frame x Aerin pastel-hued jeans and Johanna Ortiz resort separates. Aerin Melrose Place pop-up store  Courtesy “We thought

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Boy Meets Girl Designs Limited-Edition T-shirt With Cool Effect for Earth Day

Boy Meets Girl, a young contemporary ath-leisure brand, has teamed with Cool Effect, a San Francisco nonprofit that provides funding for carbon reducing projects around the world, for an Earth Day campaign. The initiative is to spread awareness and encourage action to reduce greenhouse gas emissions. Boy Meets Girl has created a limited-edition T-shirt design inspired by Cool Effect’s mission to fight climate change and cut carbon emissions. Using the phrase, “Thou Shalt Stay Cool” featured on the front, the T-shirt is expected to encourage action leading up to and following Earth Day on April 22. The T-shirt will be available for purchase starting April 8 and will retail for $42, exclusively on boymeetsgirlusa.com. Sophie Elgort photographed the campaign, sharing stories of four New York-based environmental activists who are passionate about taking action and making an impact on the planet for future generations. The stories will be featured on Boy Meets Girl’s blog and social channels. The activists include Nicolette Templier, Miss Brooklyn Earth 2018; Reza Cristian, founder of Sustain Magazine; Alyssa Hardy, senior fashion editor at Cools, and Sarah Slutsky, creative director of Shiffon Co. and stylist at The Wall Group. Boy Meets Girl x Cool Effect Earth Day T-shirt worn by Nicolette

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Roger Federer and Adam Scott: In Conversation

Roger Federer and Adam Scott could be forgiven for dwindling energy by the end of the day — 8 p.m. midweek in Miami, after Miami Open prep for Federer and Uniqlo production meetings for both of them. But these are professionals — slowing energy isn’t part of their makeup. “I mean, we always have extra energy,” Federer says with a grin, sitting down opposite Scott in the private residence at the Four Seasons Surfside where the Uniqlo team has set up shop for the day. The two are dressed in classic Uniqlo styles: white denim and a dove gray linen shirt for Federer, black cotton button down and navy trousers on Scott. Federer, who at 37 has the most Grand Slam titles of any male tennis player in history and is currently ranked fifth worldwide, is in town for the Miami Open, where he would go on to defeat John Isner to take home his 101st professional title with a straight sets victory on Sunday. Scott, the 38-year-old Australian golfer who won the 2013 Masters, is gearing up for competition and is in Miami to meet with the Uniqlo team, who he has worked with for the last six years. During their respective production meetings,

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Billy Reid on a Growth Spurt as New Investors Come on Board

NEW YORK — It’s a new day at Billy Reid. The Alabama-based designer recently sold a minority stake in his business and with that financial cushion is working with a new team to grow the brand to what he believes can be its full potential. In addition to Joel Anderson, an Alabama businessman who has been a partner for close to a decade, the Kemmons Wilson Companies, a Memphis-based investment firm operated by the descendants of the founder of the Holiday Inn chain, recently invested as well. Kemmons Wilson also holds stakes in the Memphis Grizzlies NBA team, the Wiseacre Brewing Co., Central BBQ, Active Implants and businesses in the hospitality and insurance fields. It purchased an undisclosed percentage of the Billy Reid brand last year. The latest company to provide funding is The Balvenie, Scotland’s premier single malt Scotch whisky. The deal, which is for one year but may be extended, will find Balvenie spirits being featured at Billy Reid’s 12 retail stores. It will sponsor his 11th annual Shindig festival in Alabama in August and host a series of in-store events in several stores. Like many independent designer labels, Reid has struggled to find the cash to sustain and expand his business. Reid

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Laura Vinroot Poole and Irene Neuwirth Bring Capitol Boutique to L.A.

Retailer Laura Vinroot Poole is bringing her Southern charm to Southern California. The owner of the Charlotte, N.C., boutique Capitol has opened a 3,500-square-foot store at the Brentwood Country Mart in Los Angeles, with a little sparkle from a friend, jewelry designer Irene Neuwirth, who provided her own shop-in-shop. “My second largest client base is California and I’ve always loved the Country Mart,” said Poole, sitting down with WWD on opening day, in front of the store’s brilliant blue de Gournay screen. “It’s her second largest client base because I’m buying all of it,” deadpanned Neuwirth, proving her point by wearing her most recent purchase from the day before, a linen dress decorated with whimsical red crabs by Turkish designer Gül Hürgel. Established in Charlotte in 1997, Capitol’s flagship is one of the South’s leading multibrand boutiques, which in recent years has expanded locally to include the contemporary Poole shop and Tabor shop for men. The Venice, Calif.-based Neuwirth, whose jewelry is beloved by Reese Witherspoon, Jennifer Lawrence, Emma Stone, Julia Louis-Dreyfus, Busy Philipps and more for its carefully balanced constructions of bold, rough cut and semiprecious stones, has been selling at Capitol for 17 years. She and Poole became fast friends when

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Fox News Breaking News Alert

Fox News Breaking News Alert

Top-seeded Duke defeated by Michigan State as Spartans advance to NCAA Final Four

03/31/19 4:15 PM
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Fox News Breaking News Alert

Fox News Breaking News Alert

2 Marine pilots killed in Arizona helicopter crash, officials say

03/31/19 2:12 PM
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Roberto Cavalli U.S. Subsidiary Filing for Chapter 7

MILAN — The Roberto Cavalli company is facing more troubles as it seeks a new owner and goes through a restructuring plan with creditors. A spokesman over the weekend said the company’s U.S. subsidiary, operating under the ArtFashion Corp. moniker, is filing for Chapter 7 this week, confirming a WWD report on Friday. This follows the announcement that day that  Roberto Cavalli SpA’s board had decided to file a restructuring plan with the Court of Milan that would allow it to continue to operate while holding discussions with creditors under the so-called process of “composition with creditors.” On the evening of March 29, all U.S. stores ceased operations, going out of business starting from the following day. Merchandise and store keys were taken into custody by a security company to be handed over to the trustee next week. There were seven directly operated stores, one corner and four outlets in the U.S., all closed on March 29.  The American market accounted for 17 percent of consolidated sales or 22 percent of direct sales. ArtFashion Corp. was established in 1997 . The U.S. e-commerce operation is suspended until logistic services can be managed out of Europe, said the spokesman. All employees were informed on Friday evening and contracts have

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Tom Ford, Neiman Marcus Sued for $1M Over Steve McQueen Sweater

A men’s cardigan is creating a legal headache for Tom Ford. The designer’s company, along with affiliated retailers Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman, were sued Friday in Los Angeles Superior Court by the only son of the late actor Steve McQueen. Chadwick McQueen is accusing the designer of improperly trading on his father’s image and trademarks by marketing and selling for about $2,400 a style of sweater, marketed as the “McQueen cardigan.” McQueen, who maintains his father’s trust, argued in his complaint that a wool cardigan with a shawl collar, like the Tom Ford garment at issue, is one of the “sartorial items that in fact became synonymous with McQueen.” Citing a blog on fashion from movies and TV, McQueen added that his father “could also be called the king of the cardigan, considering his role in reestablishing the sweater as a functional and fashionable garment for young rebels rather than as the staid staple of TV dads like Ward Cleaver.” As for the legality of the sweater being described with reference to the late actor, McQueen said the family and the trust over the last 30 years “has carefully and deliberately limited the projects featuring Steve McQueen” and that it owns trademarks covering

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Benefit Expands Beyond Cosmetics Collaborations With Quay

Benefit is continuing to venture outside of color cosmetics. The makeup brand tried its hand at interior decor in 2018 via a partnership with PBTeen. The line, said Erin Kramer, Benefit’s director of brand marketing and content, went “very well” and “was considered a great success” — so much so that both companies are reviving select favorites for a return during the holiday season. But before that collaboration makes an encore, the beauty company has a new collab to unveil: Benefit x Quay. Benefit x Quay’s Tinted Love sunglasses.  Courtesy Image “Our brands both had crushes on each other,” Kramer said. “We both really admire each other’s approach and each other’s products. Our audiences have a lot of similarities and interests in where they’re spending their time, but we’re both reaching new audiences with this collaboration. We’re both based in [San Francisco], and not to mention, they were up for pulling a little April Fools’ joke with us.” Benefit x Quay spans three styles — Shook, Shade Queen and Tinted Love — that come in black and pink and are priced from $55 to $60. The glasses will be sold on both Benefit and Quay’s web sites starting April 3, and will be available at

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Shrimps and Warehouse Team for Summer Holiday Capsule 

SUMMER READY: Shrimps’ creative director Hannah Weiland has ditched her signature faux fur in favor of summer clothing as part of a new collaboration with British high street retailer Warehouse. “They are a classic British brand and I like that they have their own unique aesthetic on the high street,” said Weiland, adding that she was inspired by a hot summer’s day in Europe. “A glamorous beach day drinking Campari Spritz under a striped umbrella, sitting on a gingham towel and playing Scrabble.” Shrimps x Warehouse’s “Holiday Edit” capsule collection.  Courtesy The Holiday Edit will be available in Warehouse stores and online from mid-April. The collection ranges from T-shirts and sundresses to jewelry and beach bags. Pieces start at 15 pounds. There are ruched tops, long-tiered dresses and button-up tops. Some feature a floral pattern and daisy embroidery, while others are designed with a printed illustration, drawn by Weiland herself. Elsewhere, pieces such as a belted playsuit, high-waisted towel shorts and a vinyl tote bag feature a lime green gingham pattern. Accessories take the shape of bucket hats, straw hats and lace-up espadrilles. “I think Shrimps’ prints and colors work very well for an exciting summer wardrobe. I have a love for lime green so this is key

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Saturday, 30 March 2019
Friday, 29 March 2019
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Bridget Foley’s Diary: Leggings Aren’t the Problem

Dear ND Mom Maryann White, I admire your guts. If, when my daughter was in college, I’d written and signed a letter along the lines of the one you wrote this week, “The Legging Problem,” only her pragmatic consideration of the next semester’s tuition would have prevented our permanent estrangement. I admire you setting the example for your sons of having the courage of your convictions, and being unafraid to publicly voice an opinion that you surely knew would result in a hashtag heyday of negative response and mockery. I agree with you that clothing sends messages. After decades of working in fashion, I believe in the power of clothes as a conduit of self-expression in general and at a given moment. Look at the two women here. Each wears an outfit that sends a specific, non-accidental message. To pretend otherwise is ridiculous. Yet to state that sometimes people, both women and men, choose a particular look because it’s sexy is a dicey enterprise in our modern world, particularly when talking about women’s fashion choices in the #MeToo era. Such acknowledgment is often twisted by critics to suggest that the person stating the obvious is trumpeting the old, warped viewpoint that inappropriate male

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Out Magazine Owner Pride Media Suing for $10M Over Payment Issues

Pride Media wants payback, literally, for the fallout it claims to have experienced around freelancers for Out magazine going unpaid. The holding company, formed after Oreva Capital purchased previous Out owner Here Publishing in 2017, told a local New York court on Tuesday that it’s been unfairly held responsible, slandered and disparaged by two entities that previously produced the magazine. Claims it says are worth damages of at least $10 million. As first reported by WWD, Out for many years was produced through what was essentially an outsourcing arrangement between Here Publishing and Grand Editorial, a production company owned by Aaron Hicklin, Out’s longtime editor in chief. Hicklin in 2017 sold Grand to McCarthy Media, owned by Evanly Schindler, and subsequently dissolved Grand. When Oreva, owned by Adam Levin, acquired Out, among other of Here’s LGTBQ publications, it continued the outsourcing contract with McCarthy until last November. Pride claims that although it continued to make bi-monthly payments of $45,800 for print and online production of Out and $1,300 for Outtraveler.com, as well as $39,900 for print production of The Advocate on an as-requested basis, freelancers went unpaid, with invoices exceeding $120,000. The company, as it did first to WWD, argued that Schindler and

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HL Group Sues Milly Over Unpaid Bills

HL Group wants contemporary fashion brand Milly LLC to pay its bills. The marketing company sued Milly Thursday in New York state court, claiming that despite its “repeated demands,” Milly still owes it some $113,000 in retainer and consulting fees for work it did over the course of 2018, as well as expenses. HL Group’s breach of contract suit says Milly violated its consulting agreement with the marketing firm dating back to 2015, which they renewed annually since. The contract required Milly to pay it a $15,000 monthly retainer as well as $12,500 for its work on fashion shows. But Milly has been delinquent on several months of payments including for much of the second half of 2018, HL Group claims. “Defendant promised to pay plaintiff for the services to be performed and the expenses to be incurred at the defendant’s request,” HL Group said in the complaint. “Plaintiff has repeatedly requested that the defendant pay these sums.”   Milly was cofounded in 2001 by Michelle Smith, the brand’s creative director and her husband Andrew Oshrin, its president. Oshrin did not immediately respond to a request for comment Friday. In February, Milly did not have a fashion show, but instead opted for

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Michael Kors Steps Back From Capri Board

Michael Kors slipped off the board of Capri Holdings — the company that started with his namesake brand and has now expanded with the acquisitions of Jimmy Choo and Versace. The move was revealed in a filing with the Securities and Exchange Commission late Friday — a kind of witching hour for public companies wanting to quietly make some revelation. The company took on the name Capri in December to “reflect its stature as a global fashion luxury group comprised of three founder-led brands,” according to the filing. “Consistent with this strategy…Mr. Michael Kors decided that, effective March 29, 2019, he will no longer serve as a director or executive officer of Capri Holdings,” the filing continued. Contacted by WWD, the company sent a statement from John Idol, chairman and chief executive officer of Capri, that noted: “The board of directors will focus on the growth and development of each of these three unique luxury houses. Michael Kors is our largest and most profitable brand in the group. “Mr. Kors remains the honorary chairman and chief creative officer of the Michael Kors brand,” Idol said. “He is the leader of our successful American luxury house and will continue to guide its creative vision.” Kors founded the

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Bebe Ravi Plans to Hire More Women in Kenya to Play It Forward

FASHION BUILDING BLOCKS: As a former model, Siamanda Chege understands the global scope of fashion and is trying to use that knowledge to help orphaned children in her homeland of Kenya. Her nine-year-old label Bebe Ravi is sold in select specialty stores with more than 10 percent of all purchases benefiting the Patrick Chege Memorial Orphanage that she started in impoverished Nakuru, Kenya. The area has an unemployment rate as high as 40 percent and many of the women are widows due to the AIDS epidemic. Bebe Ravi pays its workers a living wage and provides them with free meals. In addition to helping these sole breadwinners with access to income, the company’s strategy aims to help propel the community forward. Based in New York, she travels back to Kenya seven to 10 times a year. Nine years into the primarily knitwear business, the founder has added a cut-and-sewn woven division, which are being made by younger women between the ages of 18 and their early 30s. Many of them are young mothers whose education stopped after attending secondary schools, Chege said. Guided by her and her design team, the new recruits have learned to cut patterns and other skills necessary for

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Beyoncé and Jay Z Make Emotional Speeches at GLAAD Awards

“Popular culture began to raise me even if it didn’t always represent me,” actress-activist Janet Mock told the crowd at the 30th annual GLAAD Awards honoring Beyoncé and Jay Z with the Vanguard award on Thursday night in Beverly Hills. “As a young person growing up poor and black and trans, this lack of reflection made me feel [invisible], but it all began to change when I saw Beyoncé, waving a hot comb in the air in a Houston, Texas, salon in a Destiny’s Child video for ‘Bills, Bills, Bills.’ I found the black girl hero I had always been searching for.” For the star-studded event celebrating accurate and fair representations of LGBTQIA people in media, it was all about Queen Bey, from “Grey’s Anatomy” actor Jake Borelli’s cry of “Beyoncé!” on the red carpet in anticipation of her appearance to host Ross Mathews unveiling his 2020 presidential vote for the singer during his opener on stage. But as presenters including Beyoncé’s former stylist Ty Hunter, Lena Waithe and Mock spoke of the couple, they were visibly moved.   View this post on Instagram A post shared by Beyoncé (@beyonce) on Mar 28, 2019 at 11:05pm PDT Upon accepting his award, Jay Z

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François-Henri Pinault Pays Tribute to Agnès Varda

PARIS — François-Henri Pinault, chairman and chief executive officer of Kering, has paid tribute to French filmmaker Agnès Varda, who died on Friday at the age of 90. The executive lamented the passing of a “great lady and incomparable artist.” Kering had close links with the director, one of the key figures in the French New Wave in the Sixties with films like “Cleo From 5 to 7” and “The Creatures.” In December 2017, the French luxury group threw a party celebrating Varda’s honorary Oscar, and she forged a friendship with Alessandro Michele, creative director of its Gucci brand. “A cinema icon, a woman of commitment, a tireless feminist and an extraordinary artist, she conquered the world with her unique perspective on reality and creativity. We will miss her sense of fantasy, her poetic charm and her distinctive voice in the world,” Pinault said in a statement. “The gift she leaves us is her enlightening way of being in the world, with immense simplicity. It permeated all her work, and it remains with us today,” he added. On Instagram, Michele posted a picture of Varda with her late husband, French director Jacques Demy, with the caption: “Le bonheur,” or “Happiness” in English. The Belgium-born director was one of

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Roberto Cavalli Applies for Restructuring Plan With Creditors

MILAN — The sale of the Roberto Cavalli company has hit another stumbling block. The Roberto Cavalli SpA board on Friday revealed that it had decided to file a restructuring plan with the Court of Milan that would allow it to continue to operate while holding discussions with creditors under the so-called process of “composition with creditors.” The board said the decision comes despite ongoing discussions with shareholders and potential investors “with the resources necessary to overcome its current state of financial difficulties.” “Through this request, the company intends to utilize a well-defined legal mechanism arranged by the legislator to manage and overcome critical phases that could also lead to the suspension of some activities in foreign countries,” stated the company. The Court of Milan will examine the application and “define a period of time during which the company will keep an open dialogue with all the subjects and competent authorities to define the details of the possible next steps to be carried out.” As reported, Philipp Plein was said to be interested in taking control of the company but has distanced himself from the negotiations, leaving the American Bluestar Alliance as the only bidder. Creative director Paul Surridge exited the brand earlier this week. This is the latest development

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Kate Lewis to Be Honored at Upcoming Matrix Awards

The new leadership generation at Hearst Magazines is already getting awards. Kate Lewis, chief content officer at the publisher for less than a year, is set to receive a Matrix Award during this year’s event of the same name, which broadly celebrates women working in the media/communications industry. Jessica Pels, the new editor in chief of Cosmopolitan, will present Lewis with her award during the May ceremony. Pels was selected to present Lewis because the women have worked together since their days at Condé Nast, with Lewis serving as something of a mentor, a theme of the awards. With some of her typical enthusiasm, Lewis said “being part of this amazing, powerful group of women is such an honor.” “I remember all the big-time editors going off to this event every year when I first was starting out,” Lewis added, “and now I’m not only going to the event but am accepting the award.” Lewis is receiving the award based on her entire tenure at Hearst, where she started more than five years ago as a vice president of content operations and editorial director. Other award recipients this year include Padma Lakshmi, host and producer of “Top Chef” and an advocate for women’s health initiatives;

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Alexandre Choueiri Promoted to Global President, Ralph Lauren Fragrances

Alexandre Choueiri has been appointed global president of Ralph Lauren Fragrances. A visual for Ralph Lauren’s Tender Romance ad campaign.  Courtesy Photo The promotion comes after Choueiri, who has been with L’Oréal since 2000, spent about seven years with the company’s International Designer Collections division, where he is currently president of the U.S. business. Before IDC, Choueiri spent time at Lancôme, Helena Rubinstein and Kiehl’s. The Ralph Lauren job elevates Choueiri into a global role. He will remain based in New York, and report to Guillaume de Lesquen, global president of designer brands fragrances, who is based in Paris. Choueiri, who has spent the past few years building out L’Oréal’s designer beauty portfolio, said the Ralph Lauren brand was one of the company’s “most beautiful.” “It’s a brand that’s always been very dear to my heart,” Choueiri told WWD in an interview. “I remember when I was a teenager, my first luxury purchase was a polo shirt at the Madeleine store. I still remember how much it cost me because it was several hours of tuition.” Ralph Lauren has multiple fragrance pillars for both men and women, including Polo Blue (and Red), Romance, Woman and the Ralph Lauren Collection. Industry sources estimated that the operation does about

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Urban Decay Reveals ‘Game of Thrones’-Themed Makeup Collection

As any die-hard “Game of Thrones” fan knows, winter is coming. Now, so too is the popular franchise’s first makeup collection. The hit HBO series has teamed with Urban Decay for a makeup line inspired by the show’s Seven Kingdoms and women of Westeros. The collection gives a nod to many elements of the show, including Emilia Clarke’s “Mother of Dragons” character and the houses of Targaryen, Lannister and Stark. In a dramatized video featuring the “Game of Thrones” much-loved intro music, Urban Decay revealed today on its Instagram the full 13-piece collection, which will be released on April 14, the same day the show returns to HBO for its eighth and final season. View this post on Instagram You're in the great game now. The moment you've been waiting for is FINALLY here—your first look at the ENTIRE Urban Decay | Game of Thrones collection! From the shores of Dragonstone to the frozen lands beyond the Wall, this collection was inspired by our favorite places in Westeros and the strong women of the Seven Kingdoms. This is a LIMITED EDITION collection, available GLOBALLY starting April 14th. @gameofthrones #FORTHETHRONE #URBANDECAY #MAKEUP #BEAUTY #GOT #GAMEOFTHRONES A post shared by Urban

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Rachel Zoe’s Informed Selections for Gilt

Rachel Zoe has curated a Spring Style Guide for Gilt, where her picks for men, women and home will live in boutiques on the web site starting Tuesday through April 29. Zoe’s also weighed in on her “favorite day of the year,” Mother’s Day, with a gift guide and boutique featuring items she’d like to receive. (Hint, hint.) “I worked with Gilt before as a designer,” she said, “and as one of our partners. I’ve had great success with them. When they approached me for this partnership, it felt like a natural fit. They have a very consistent and loyal following. Their customer loves fashion and beauty, has good taste and they know what they want.” It would seem like the creative director of the Rachel Zoe Collection, founder and chief curator of Box of Style by Rachel Zoe, and founder and editor at large of online style site The Zoe Report, isn’t at a loss for projects, but Zoe always seems to have a side hustle. The stylist-cum-designer joined the Influencer Shopping Network as a celebrity stylist in June; took up a residency at Caruso’s Palisades Village in July; launched a capsule collection at Macy’s in August, and teamed with the now-bankrupt

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The Initiatives in Art and Culture to Honor the De Beers Group’s Feriel Zerouki

Feriel Zerouki, senior vice president of International Relations and Ethical Initiatives at the De Beers Group, is being honored with the Initiatives in Art and Culture Award for Leadership in Responsible Practice in Jewelry. The IAC presents the award annually to a recipient of the jewelry industry, or part of a jewelry-focused organization, that has made a transformational contribution to ethical sourcing and responsible practices in the worldwide gem and jewelry trade. “Both personally and professionally, Feriel embodies all the attributes that we seek in an honoree, and this award is so well-deserved for all that she has done to champion and further responsible practice and ethical supply chains worldwide,” said Lisa Koenigsberg, president and founder of Initiatives in Art and Culture. Zerouki originally joined De Beers Group in 2005 and in 2009 she was appointed Best Practice Principles Manager, where she was tasked with embedding the organization’s sustainability program. In 2018, De Beers Group, lead by Zerouki, partnered with the Diamond Development Initiative to launch GemFair, a pilot program that aims to create a secure and transparent route to market for ethically source artisanal and small-scale mined diamonds. The initiative combines on-the-ground training and engagement with miners on ethical standards with a digital

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Cost of Calvin Klein Fallout Bigger Than Thought

The cost of making Raf Simons’ vision for Calvin Klein a reality and subsequently unraveling his designs after they failed to boost profits has been laid bare — and it’s larger than previously thought. As PVH Corp., which has owned Calvin Klein since 2002, works fast to reconnect the iconic brand with consumers, the price of the whole debacle now looks likely to add up to around $250 million, up from a prior estimate of $190 million. In addition to the $60 million to $70 million it invested in Simons’ 205W39NYC collection, which alongside his overhaul of Calvin Klein Jeans did not provide the returns it had hoped for, PVH said in its annual report released Friday that total costs related to the restructure necessary to repair the brand are likely to total $170.7 million. To date, the so-called restructuring has included Simons’ departure, the end of the brand’s collection business, the exit of that business’ president Michelle Kessler-Sanders and the shuttering of Calvin Klein’s flagship on Madison Avenue in Manhattan. In a breakdown of costs for all of this and more, PVH has earmarked around $65.7 million for severance and termination, $55 million for so-called “long-lived asset impairment,” such as closing the Madison Avenue

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Kappa Kalcio Soccer-Skewed Streetwear Debuts

Kappa is embracing its Italian soccer heritage with today’s launch of the Kappa Kalcio collection. The performance soccer collection — soccer in Italian is “calcio” — has been given a streetwear twist with oversize logos emblazoned on the pieces in fluorescent colors. The collection includes a track jacket and pants, T-shirts, shorts and a tank as well as soccer accessories including high socks and even a soccer ball. Prices range from $22 to $109. The collection will be sold on the Kappa web site as well as at its global retail partner, Sneakersnstuff’s shops in New York, Los Angeles, Stockholm, London, Paris and Berlin. In announcing the collection last year, Lorenzo Boglione, vice president of sales at Basic Net, which owns Kappa, said: “We have a very strong momentum right now and we want to express the history of the brand and mix that with a fashion trend. It’s important to show the bedrock of the brand and celebrate that in a modern way.”

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Fox News Breaking News Alert

Fox News Breaking News Alert

Mueller’s investigative report will be released to Congress by ‘mid-April, if not sooner,’ AG Barr says in letter

03/29/19 12:21 PM
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London-Based Brand Dai to Open New York City Pop-up With Performances

STAGING A STORE: Dai founder Joanna Dai returns to New York this weekend to open a pop-up store in the Bowery that will be as much about special events as will it be about clothes. She initially relocated to London for her job at J.P. Morgan in 2013, and wound up launching her own direct-to-consumer company in July 2017. Geared for “urban, modern career women,” the location of this week’s pop-up made sense since Dai came from New York and still has part of her network here. A number of special events are planned during the April 2 to 7 run at 208 Bowery. A two-hour styling event with Dai, a post-work meditation with Aiko Neligan, destress yoga with Magi Pierce and styling with Bloomberg’s global head of on-air wardrobe Sara DiMedioare among them. There are also plans to introduce the Performances Spaces concept in London perhaps for a monthlong store in Soho or Covent Garden, before trying it out a second time in New York. Dai declined to reveal her self-funded company’s annual sales. Aware of the frustrations working women face for wardrobe choices, she set out to try and do something about it. After exiting a career in finance, she enrolled

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LIM College, Fashiondex Partner for Sustainable Solutions Summit

LIM College and fashion sourcing web site Fashiondex have once again partnered for its Fashion and Sustainability Summit, an annual event centered on introducing and discussing fashion industry sustainability solutions. The conference will take place on April 12 at LIM College. This is the second time LIM College and Fashiondex have partnered for the summit. And now that the fashion industry is keenly aware of how sustainability can increase profit margins and boost brands’ reputation in the eyes of the consumer, the summit will address utilitarian solutions that emphasize “practices, processes and purpose,” arming attendees with requisite information to meet the needs of an industry ready for change. The firms explained that “a sustainable business model can be both ethical and profitable, and the Fashion and Sustainability Summit will explore ways for companies to increase sustainable practices in every area from fabric design and post-textile management to shipping, and more,” adding that the conference will also discuss ways for designers, manufactures and retailers can reduce their eco-impact as their businesses grow. Accessories Council Competition Awards LIM College Students Elizabeth S. Marcuse, president of LIM College, said, “Consistent with LIM College’s practical approach to education for the business of fashion, sustainability is an important

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Christie’s Auction of S.I. Newhouse Art Expected to Fetch $130 Million

Ahead of the May auctions, Christie’s has unveiled 11 pieces from the late S.I. Newhouse‘s prized art collection, valued at more than $130 million. From Jeff Koons to Andy Warhol, the modern art collection includes paintings and sculptures from the former Condé Nast heir and publisher’s personal collection, which he started curating in the Sixties. The collection includes work by major artists such as Paul Cézanne, Vincent van Gogh, Roy Lichtenstein and Alberto Giacometti, among others. Roy Lichtenstein’s 1996 “Landscape with Boats,” estimated between $7 million and $9 million.  Christie's “S.I. Newhouse was one of the most important collectors of the 20th century and well into the 21st,” Tobias Meyer, adviser to the Newhouse family, said in a statement on the auction. “He personified the rare combination of a great intuitive eye and equally great intellectual curiosity. He read voraciously about artists he admired and nothing could stop him once he decided to acquire a work of art that measured up to his exacting standards.” The most high-profile and most valued of the Newhouse pieces going on the block is Koons’ 1986 sculpture, “Rabbit,” expected to sell for between $50 million to $70 million. The stainless steel piece has been admired for decades with its

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Alberta Ferretti, Livia Firth Join Forces in the Name of Sustainability

LONDON — Livia Firth and her brand consultancy Eco-Age are helping Alberta Ferretti shine a brighter light on her sustainability commitment, with the launch of a new capsule that has been made using only eco-friendly materials such as recycled cashmere and organic cotton. It is set to make its debut on Alberta Ferretti’s web site on April 15, in time for Earth Day. “Alberta was the first Italian luxury designer to look into the issue, and she did it with courage,” said Firth, who celebrated the debut of the capsule with Ferretti during an informal lunch in London. “Most brands would never say ‘I’ve made this in Bangladesh,’ but she went there and she was really committed. Since then, she’s been really active in integrating new materials within her own company, so I’ve been trying to encourage her to communicate it more and not wait until it’s perfect, because perfection takes years. She created this capsule to draw attention to the issue, but it’s not a one-off. It exemplifies the work that’s behind the company.” Alberta Ferretti first started looking into the social and environmental issues in fashion’s supply chain in 2011, long before sustainability became an industry buzzword. At the time, Ferretti

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Create & Cultivate Eyes Scale With Release of Digital Memberships 

Create & Cultivate, the digital media and marketing firm that’s nabbed a loyal following with its conferences and online content aimed at Millennial female entrepreneurs is getting creative itself with its revenue streams. The company on Tuesday is set to launch its digital membership program, which offers monthly career mentoring, front-of-line passes at conferences, unlimited access to video footage from sold-out conferences and members-only content. The cost is $140, or as Create & Cultivate will pitch to prospective members: $15 a month and akin to the price of a piece of avocado toast. It’s the latest tactic to continue growing a business that last year added a book and podcast to its well-known conferences and online content lineup. “We’re most known for our events side of the business, so all the experiences we’re creating,” said founder Jaclyn Johnson, who started the business in 2012 with prior experience in influencer marketing and events. “We’ve had a lot of success in that realm but 100 conferences a year isn’t a great strategy for us.” That’s especially the case on a closer look at the numbers, she added. While a large conference can pull in more than 1,500 people, those accessing the Create & Cultivate site is

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Fox News Breaking News Alert

Fox News Breaking News Alert

Linda McMahon to step down as head of SBA, source tells Fox News

03/29/19 10:05 AM
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Kering’s New Italian Head Office Built in Milan

MILAN — Underscoring the importance of Italy for Kering, a new nine-story glass tower covering 118,800 square feet stands in Milan as the French luxury group’s Italian head office. “Our new Milan location has a powerful symbolic meaning for Kering and aims to strengthen our existing status as a leading global luxury group with vital foundations in Italy, and one that has the utmost respect for Italian heritage, Made-in-Italy savoir faire and Italian management culture,” said Jean-François Palus, group managing director of Kering, parent of Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Pomellato and Brioni, among others. “Italy has played a key role within the Group for the last 20 years and we intend to further reinforce our investment in the country while attracting and retaining the best talent there.” Kering did not reveal the amount invested in the project. The tower is located on Via Mecenate 91, adjacent to the Gucci Hub in the city’s eastern border near Linate’s international airport. Kering chairman and chief executive officer François-Henri Pinault and Palus visited the venue ahead of the Gucci ready-to-wear fall 2019 show last month greeting employees. After two years of works, the new head office allows the group to bring together in one single location

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Executives Pin High Hopes on AI Deployment

Artificial intelligence and related technologies are transforming business, and according to the latest research, companies are rapidly deploying AI across a variety of organizational operations. In its Artificial Intelligence Trends 2019 Roundup report sponsored by customer engagement platform provider Braze, eMarketer said 27 percent of U.S. executives have already implemented AI in “multiple areas” of their business, while 20 percent said they plan to deploy it “enterprise-wide.” “The AI ecosystem is complex and in a state of constant flux,” researchers from eMarketer noted in the report. “Though far from perfect, one thing is for certain: Many business leaders are already bullish about AI’s ability to improve operations.” The firm added that executives worldwide “expect AI to improve growth, productivity, innovation and job creation in their respective countries and industries.” Researchers at eMarketer also offered a primer on some of the important terminology used with the technology, which included machine learning, deep learning, neural networks and natural language processing, among others. The authors of the report said the terminology can be confusing, but at its core, AI involves technology that aims to emulate human thinking and decision-making. “AI is no longer a futuristic, sci-fi trope,” the report stated. “After years of development, AI technologies —

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A Tale of Two Retail Chains in South Africa

For a moment it seemed as if South African retail giant Edcon was on the verge of closing after almost a century of operations. Fortunately, a consortium consisting of the Unemployment Insurance Fund (UIF), debt holders and landlords came to the rescue of the troubled group in a deal that was said to have averted the loss of thousands of jobs, not to mention prevented hundreds of thousands of square feet of suddenly empty retail space in all the prime shopping centers around the country. Edcon, whose flagship property is the department store Edgars, received a lifeline amounting to 2.7 billion South African rand, or about $190 million at current exchange. The fresh funds will allow the cash-strapped company to recapitalize. Edcon has been struggling with a debt burden following its 2007 acquisition by U.S.-based Bain Capital in a 25 billion rand, or $176 million, private equity deal, which saw its delisting from the Johannesburg Stock Exchange (JSE). In 2016, Bain cut its losses and transferred ownership of Edcon to several of its creditors. The retailer remained in precarious shape financially and operationally, suffering from too many stores, declining sales, lost market share and an incoherent strategy. According to an official statement, the

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V&A Displays Grayson Perry’s Brexit Vases as MPs Gear for Fresh Vote

LONDON — At least one Brexit deal has been done: On Friday, the Victoria and Albert Museum said it has acquired Grayson Perry’s “Matching Pair” vases, which — as of March 29 — will go on permanent display in the Ceramics Galleries. Created in 2017, a year after Britons voted to leave the EU, each vase depicts supporters of Leave and Remain. The vases will go on display March 29, to coincide with the date that Britain was originally scheduled to leave the EU. The vases were unveiled a few hours before British Members of Parliament were due to vote on an updated, split version of Prime Minister Theresa May’s unpopular Brexit withdrawal deal. They will be asked to vote on the first part of the deal only, the actual withdrawal agreement, which concerns the terms of Britain’s exit from the EU. If MPs vote in favor, then the U.K. will have until May 22 to leave the union. If it fails, MPs will begin debating alternative solutions again on Monday, and will have until April 12 to agree on an exit strategy and present it to EU leaders. If MPs cannot come up with a new plan by then, the country will

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F.P. Journe Unveils New Concept in Miami

Petrossian caviar, jamón Ibérico and vintage Moskovskaya vodka are just a few of the delicacies and rare spirits offered at Maison F.P. Journe here, the Swiss watchmaker’s unique, umbrella concept in the Epic hotel on the Miami River. The company relocated its longtime Miami office for North American operations to here, reintroduced retail to the market — its Bal Harbour boutique closed last year — and added in-house watch production and an experiential hospitality element. Customers neither have to buy a watch, nor be in the market for one to gain access to Bar Journe and Terraza Astondoa, an outdoor lounge with La Flor Dominicana cigars that was designed by Spanish yacht builder Astilleros Astondoa. They don’t even have to be F.P. Journe collectors. “We all know retail isn’t what it used to be,” said Pierre Halimi, general manager of Montres Journe America LLC, regarding the firm’s trifecta for 21st-century engagement: experiences, expertise and excellence. “It’s not just about a transaction but about discovering something new and getting away from the Tiffany counter display concept.” Ever since the brand’s first store, which opened in Tokyo in 2005, founder François-Paul Journe has aspired to emulate a home with its “bookshelf and bar” prototype. In

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This Payment Platform Offers Rebates to Mitigate Trade War Impact

Despite efforts to reignite negotiations, the tariff-infused trade war with China continues to impact business. Companies are trying to mitigate costs by changing suppliers. With some products, such as paper, businesses were able to shift sourcing to Mexico. But it’s not easy for most companies — especially in textiles, said Marwan Forzley, chief executive officer of global payments platform provider Veem. Here, Forzley shares insights into what’s at stake and its impact on business as well as some solutions to better weather the trade war. WWD: How would you describe the current situation? Marwan Forzley: Rising tariff costs in the ongoing trade war with China are affecting businesses across the U.S. Many businesses are concerned their products will be affected, including retailers. Veem has been getting questions from clients about moving suppliers, but finding new suppliers isn’t easy — it’s challenging and time-consuming and it’s virtually impossible to shift sourcing overnight without risking quality, production schedules or both. We advised our customers at the beginning of the trade war that they may need to potentially stock up on their goods to insulate their prices. We’ve seen many do just that, but afterward we’ve watched a large decrease in the size of payments to China —

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Wayman and Micah, Kiersey Clemons Play Hosts at Asos Dinner

“I cooked some dinner for us. I hope you enjoy it. Those flowers,” stylist Micah McDonald said motioning over to tables for a seated dinner, “those are from my garden. I picked them. And I had four fittings today.” McDonald was kidding, although not about the four fittings on Thursday, and he was indeed serving as host alongside Wayman Bannerman and Kiersey Clemons for a small dinner toasting the launch of the latest Asos Design collection, with racks on display in the home’s backyard and living room. Guests were a mix of celebrities and stylists, including Alisha Boe, Erica Cloud, Kollin Carter and Bryon Javar, with mini tacos among the appetizers passed around along with bacon-covered dates and chicken and salmon entrees among the evening’s fare. The launch is particularly timely as much of the industry turns its attention to festival season and the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival just around the corner. Both Bannerman and McDonald will be there for the festival’s first weekend with the annual event continuing to be a major draw for the fashion and beauty set with brands such as Calvin Klein, Rachel Zoe, Levi’s, Revolve, Adidas and YSL Beauty all set to descend upon the Coachella Valley

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Todd Snyder and Friends Step Up to Celebrate Pride

Growing up in Iowa, Todd Snyder didn’t have much interaction with the gay community. But after moving to New York City more than two decades ago to take up a career in fashion, that all changed. Most of his team and a lot of his friends are gay and Snyder wanted to celebrate that community on the 50th anniversary this summer of the Stonewall Uprising and the start of the Pride movement. “As a New Yorker now with an amazing staff, over half of which are gay, I wanted to do something meaningful,” he said. “My team is very important to me and we support each other’s values.” So he created a capsule collection and invited some of his friends to appear in a campaign to promote that “seminal milestone in the history of New York City,” according to the invite. Snyder took a space at Root Studios in Chelsea and his friends including Billy Porter and Adam Porter-Smith, Richard Haines, Frank Muytjens, Jenna Lyons, Steven Kolb, Eric Rutherford, Dominique Jackson and others turned out to be filmed and photographed. The shoot was at Root Studios.  John Daniels Powers The still photos were shot by Ryan Pfluger and the videos by Rick Rodgers. The cast donned Champion T-shirts, hoodies

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Jenny Packham Trots the Globe for Latest Collection

ALL DRESSED IN WHITE: Jenny Packham took inspiration from three different cities — New York, Paris and Bueños Aires — for her latest bridal collection. “I wanted to convey the mood of these different places into my collection, voluminous skirts for Paris, sensual silhouettes for Bueños Aires and glamour for New York,” she said. The bridal collection, presented in London alongside Packham’s signature and classic styles, also marked a new direction for the veteran bridal designer. She introduced contemporary designs such as a slip-style dress and a minidress with a feathered hem. Feathers also jazzed up other styles, as in the train of an A-line dress. Packham worked a series of capes into her collection, too. A beaded column dress featured a cape-style back. Elsewhere, she paired different styles of strapless dresses with a feather capelet. “Brides can wear this over a wedding dress, it’s an alternative to buying two separate dresses for the ceremony and for the reception,” she said, adding that the bridal market is becoming increasingly competitive. “The bridal market is becoming more cramped with new designers and lower price points, yet the market size remains the same. However, bridal customers are also seeking different styles,” said Packham, referring to a

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Mytheresa.com Expands Into Men’s Wear, Taps Chris Kyvetos

NEW MOVE: Munich-based retailer Mytheresa is adding men’s wear to its offer and bringing Sneakerboy founder Chris Kyvetos to be its new buying director of men’s wear. Kyvetos, a serial entrepreneur who founded the Australian chain of concept showrooms selling high-end and mass market sneakers via iPad, will be tasked with building a new dedicated men’s wear team and developing the retailer’s market strategy for the category. Kyvetos is also the buyer and franchise partner of Balenciaga in Australia and previously served as men’s wear director at Stylebop, another Munich-based e-commerce site. In addition to Sneakerboy, which Kyvetos has opened to re-sellers as of late and developed as a space where “kids sell shoes to each other”, he has also been planning the launch of his own sneaker line, Athletic Footwear, as well as the opening of a new China atelier that will will champion ethical and transparent footwear manufacturing. For Mytheresa, hiring Kyvetos and moving into men’s wear was the next step, following on from the strong growth of the company’s women’s wear business and expansion into kid’s wear last year. “Men’s wear will be a natural expansion for Mytheresa and represents a significant business opportunity going forward. We see a strong

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Bridget Foley’s Diary: What’s Next for Fifth Avenue?

On Monday, Tommy Hilfiger vacated its Fifth Avenue flagship. Two weeks ago, Hudson Yards heralded its opening with a big, splashy party for 17,000 Very Important People. Those two events send quite different messages about the future of physical retail in Manhattan. The Hilfiger closing was but the latest of several high-profile exits from Fifth Avenue, once one of the world’s most-revered shopping streets and still among its most famous and expensive in terms of rents. The vacancy joined those left by Polo Ralph Lauren, Henri Bendel and Lord & Taylor, with an incoming resident secured only for that last space, Hudson’s Bay having sold the former Lord & Taylor flagship building to WeWork as part of its exit plan. While the impact of technology and e-commerce on physical retail is enormous, the aura of Fifth Avenue started changing long ago, its transition from tony shopping enclave to an egalitarian mix of high and mass driven by the street’s status as a major tourist destination. The store closures feel like more than a natural evolution of that change, particularly so Hilfiger’s, a brand not tied to the luxury sector. Taken in concert, they seem to forebode a Fifth Avenue future dramatically disconnected

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While Critics Argue About Saweetie, the Rapper Seeks a Signature Sound

The rapper Saweetie doesn’t say much. She’ll walk into a room — her long, inky hair swaying down her back; clawlike nails clicking — and look around, taking in the environment. Then she puts her head down and keeps to herself. When she does talk, it’s only if spoken to, and she tends to keep her answers brief. She won’t offer up information on her own volition, opting instead to listen to the conversation swirling around her. Saweetie, née Diamonte Harper, displayed this personality trait in late February, when she appeared on the New York radio station Hot 97 for an interview with hosts Ebro Darden, Laura Stylez and Peter Rosenberg. In a video of their interview online, they ask her to freestyle, so she does. “I just thought the raps was basic,” Darden says to Saweetie once she’s finished, capping her bars by slamming her microphone against her chair. “I was like, ‘I don’t know if we should let her rap, because I wasn’t sure.’” “She doesn’t really seem fazed by that,” Rosenberg says. “She doesn’t give a f–k. She’s already got a deal and she’s hot out here.” “I don’t even think that’s her attitude, she seemed more like she

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Camille Bidault-Waddington Named Fashion Director of Vanity Fair France

NEW TEAM: Vanity Fair France is buffing up its editorial team. Camille Bidault-Waddington has been named fashion director of the magazine, two months after Joseph Ghosn’s arrival as editorial director of the Condé Nast France publication. The stylist partially replaces Virginie Mouzat, who exited the company on March 4. Since starting on March 25, Bidault-Waddington oversees the fashion section of the magazine: she will be in charge of fashion shoots and cover stories, and will report to Ghosn. “I want to bring a cool vibe to the magazine, putting a bigger focus on photography and reinforcing its visual identity,” Bidault-Waddington told WWD. “We’ll be working with a whole new team of photographers who, combined with the new layout of the magazine, will bring a gust of fresh air.” The stylist and fashion consultant is an alumni of the Studio Berçot and has collaborated with publications such as Purple, Dazed and Self Service. She will continue to work on freelance projects as well as her new role. Pierre Groppo, formerly editor in charge of fashion and lifestyle, has been named editor-in-chief of fashion features and lifestyle, overseeing the magazine’s Vanités section. He will work alongside Bénédicte Burguet, the new editor in charge of beauty and jewelry. Vanity Fair France

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Salim Azzam, Roni Helou Scoop Inaugural Fashion Trust Arabia RTW Prize

WINNERS’ CIRCLE: Salim Azzam and Roni Helou scooped the ready-to-wear award at the inaugural gala dinner for Fashion Trust Arabia, the non-profit initiative that supports design talent across the Middle East and North Africa region. The event took place at the Doha Fire Station in Doha, Qatar with attendees including Sheikha Moza bint Nasser, FTA’s honorable chair, and co-chairs Sheikha Al- Mayassa bint Hamad Al-Thani and Tania Fares, founder of the Fashion Trust. The winners will work with the FTA and Matchesfashion.com to develop their brands globally. Other winners included Krikor Jabotian for evening wear, Mukhi Sister for jewellery, Zyne for shoes and Sabry Marauf for bags. Their collections will be available to purchase at Matchesfashion.com. Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani, chair of Qatar Museums said the FTA prize is the only initiative of its kind in the Arab world, “creating a space to find, nurture and cultivate the most talented designers on an annual basis. The initiative’s mentorship will help a new wave of talent receive global attention. This commitment to education runs through everything we do at Qatar Museums.” Fares said it was “immensely exciting to think about what the winners might all be capable of with the mentors and guidance

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H&M Q1 Profit Dips As Company Overhauls Logistics System

PARIS — Hennes & Mauritz AB on Friday reported a 41 percent drop in first quarter profit as the company continued to invest in overhauling its logistics system, and reported it is selling more clothing at full price. Adding to the steep percentage decline, the same period last year was boosted by a one-off tax measure in the U.S. “Our ongoing transformation work has contributed to stronger collections with increased full- price sales, lower markdowns and increased market shares,” said Karl-Johan Persson, chief executive officer. Profit for the Dec. 1 to Feb. 28 period was 803 million Swedish kronor, or $86.55 million as the company replaced its online platform in Germany; the transition weighed on sales in the country over the period.  The Swedish fast-fashion retailer, which is undergoing a company-wide revamp to improve online services, previously reported a 4 percent rise in first-quarter sales in local currencies to 51.01 billion Swedish kronor, or $5.49 billion, with a positive currency rate effect. The holiday period was a challenge for many apparel companies that got sucked into cutting prices at the end of the year, which ate into margins. Spain-based Inditex, owner of Zara, meanwhile, is pushing ahead of rivals in the digital sphere, implementing high-tech sales

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Thursday, 28 March 2019
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Digital Download: Beekman Social, the Creative Collective With a Fresh Social Strategy

Some agencies function on a six-month deadline. For Jeffrey Tousey, the cutoff is 20 minutes — and don’t call his an agency. Tousey, a “recovering actor” — his words — and Condé Nast alum, is the founder of Beekman Social, a creative collective of writers, content producers, photographers, videographers and analysts who are called upon by influencers and brands to evolve their social strategies. The company, which turns a year old on April 2, now has a rotating roster of about 10 to 15 employees, many of whom are also from the Condé Nast family tree. Among the client list — there are about 15 total — are Olivia Palermo, SoulCycle, the dating app Raya, CBD brand Southern Tier Hemp and Vanity Fair, Tousey’s former place of work. Jeffrey Tousey, founder of Beekman Social, which helps influencers such as Olivia Palermo and brands such as SoulCycle with their social media strategies.  Justin Bishop “Condé Nast is an interesting place,” said Tousey, speaking from a conference room inside Beekman’s SoHo headquarters — an open-office filled with art, books and dozens of issues of Vogue. “You learn how to work fast and you learn how to work smart. Almost everyone that works [at Beekman Social] comes

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