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Wednesday 22 April 2020

First Law of Nature

According to an ancient adage, nature’s first law is self-preservation. Plenty of designers embraced that notion in their fall collections, an oddly prescient creative direction given the global eruption of the coronavirus. Though the virus started in January when the fall design process was still under way, it seems unlikely that so many designers could have predicted the ultimate scope of the crisis which, by February, had not officially been declared a pandemic and was not pervasive enough to have disrupted the collections. They went on as usual, albeit with endless conversation about the coronavirus. Whether due to stunning foresight or mere coincidence, countless fall 2020 collections featured clothes with personal protective elements — padding in coats and blankets, head coverings, multiple pockets and pouches — and a mostly somber palette. “I just wanted something quite emotionally triggering and quite sad, and I thought about flood,” Demna Gvasalia said of his Balenciaga show that couldn’t have been darker, either symbolically or literally; his guests arrived to a pitch-black auditorium, its floor covered in water. Gvasalia wasn’t just in a mood, but wanted to send a message about “consequences of our lifestyle — flood is kind of a metaphoric thing.” In his debut for

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