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Wednesday 31 July 2019
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Danielle Bernstein, Onia Make It Official With Licensing Deal

Danielle Bernstein and Onia have inked a new deal. The influencer and swimwear brand have previously partnered on four swimwear collections, the latest of which sold $1 million worth of product in just three hours. The two are teaming once more, this time for a licensing deal that will make Onia the official production partner for Bernstein’s newly launched Shop We Wore What. Shop We Wore What brings Bernstein’s line of overalls, called SSO, and future fashion collections under one roof — URL, rather. With Onia as her partner, Bernstein plans to mass produce her current and future fashion lines and sell them wholesale to her retail partners, which include Intermix, Revolve and Nordstrom. “Onia has proven to be a dream production partner,” Bernstein said. “They have the same values as me when it comes to quality and fit and focusing on bringing a quality product at an affordable price point for our customers.” With Onia as her production partner, Danielle Bernstein plans to expand her SSO overalls brand to other categories, starting with swim.  Courtesy Image Launching Aug. 1, Shopweworewhat.com will feature five silhouettes of Bernstein’s SSO overalls, prices for which range from $185 to $295. Bernstein will soon launch her own in-house brand, We

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Met to Mount Karl Lagerfeld Exhibition in 2022: Sources

Although no great fan of fashion exhibitions, especially retrospectives, the late Karl Lagerfeld is perhaps the designer most deserving of one. The Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York certainly thinks so, and head curator Andrew Bolton is to conceive the showcase for 2022, sources told WWD. Additional details could not immediately be learned and a spokeswoman for The Met said the museum does not comment on speculation about future exhibitions. The Met has yet to divulge the theme of its 2020 fashion exhibition, saying only that the Costume Institute’s permanent collection would be the primary source of looks as the institution marks its 150th anniversary. The Costume Institute’s current show, “Camp: Notes on Fashion,” runs until Sept. 8. Given his unprecedented fashion career — spanning more than six decades, such major houses as Chanel, Fendi and Chloé, and stretching into photography, filmmaking and industrial design — the Lagerfeld showcase is sure to be a blockbuster. The German-born designer, who died last February at age 85, has had a long history with the Met, staging his last Métiers d’Art show for Chanel, which had an Egyptian theme, in its Temple of Dendur in December 2018. Chanel, where Lagerfeld was its couturier for 36

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EXCLUSIVE: Dior to Stage Runway Show for Men’s Pre-fall in Miami

THE ART OF TRAVEL: Kim Jones is deepening his ties to the art world. The designer plans to show his Dior pre-fall men’s wear collection in Miami on Dec. 3. Jones staged his first traveling men’s show last year with a men’s pre-fall runway display in Tokyo, featuring a monumental sculpture by Japanese artist Hajime Sorayama. He will hit Miami two days before the start of Art Basel Miami Beach, one of the highlights of the year for art collectors and fashion brands alike. With collaborations with Kaws, Raymond Pettibon and Daniel Arsham under his belt, it’s highly likely that Jones will tap another artist to work on the show. “When I do these collections, I always think about what’s going to go in the exhibitions about Dior or Vuitton, whenever, in 50 years’ time, so it’s kind of important to have things that can create a legacy for the brand further along the line,” he told WWD recently. The choice of location reflects not just Dior’s long-term relationship with the U.S., but also the strategic importance of the U.S. market, which accounted for 23 percent of sales at parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton in the first half of 2019. Kim Jones  Courtesy/Jackie Nickerson It

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Intern Spotlight: Adventuring to Archives, Showrooms With FSF Interns

For fashion students, the lofty dreams of attending industry events, designer archives and showrooms are attainable only with access, a “foot in the door,” or in Kate and Javier’s case, a fashion scholarship. Two scholars nurtured by the Fashion Scholarship Fund’s program — Javier Uriegas, a fashion merchandising student from University of Texas at Austin who is interning at Centric Brands, and Kate O’Neal, a Virginia Commonwealth University student who is interning at Bloomingdale’s — are manifesting their own realities. [Read: Intern Spotlight: FSF’s Scholars Tackle Merchandising, Supply Chain] Last week, Uriegas explored PVH-owned Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein brand archives. “During the tour, we got to see the old collections from both brands and also learn the history of each,” Uriegas said to WWD, noting the cultural relevance of both heritage brands. View this post on Instagram FSF scholars and interns met at @LinkedIn HQ for a session on how to use the platform to the best of their ability – and learned how putting in the work of completing their profile will get them exponentially farther than their peers in the search for their next perfect role. Thanks to LinkedIn's @tyronaheath and Afiya Addison, and Randa's @davidjkatz

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Hunt Slonem Readies Home Collection for Bergdorf Goodman

Artist Hunt Slonem doesn’t want his work to just hang on the wall. Following his initial capsule launch of summer accessories — silk scarves, sarongs, hats and totes — featuring prints from his colorful artwork, Slonem is expanding to the bedroom and dining room. This fall, the artist is releasing a line of home goods and tabletop items exclusively at Bergdorf Goodman and the artist’s online store. The expanded collection will include bedding, napkins, bowls and placemats, all featuring his abstract renderings of bunnies, birds and butterflies. “Instead of my work’s inspiration having come from mainstream culture, mine comes from nature,” the artist says in a statement revealing the collection, partially available at Bergdorf Goodman in October. “I’m now turning my image making into mainstream culture rather than have it be derived from it.” Items from the Hunt Slonem collection.  Courtesy More from WWD: The Dive Motel & Swim Club Stakes a New Path for Nashville’s Dickerson Pike WWD List: The 7 Best Tiki Bars in New York Ray’s Is the Downtown Dive Bar You’ve Missed

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Rag & Bone Puts the Focus on Fit in Fall Initiatives

Rag & Bone will host a series of denim recycling events at its key U.S. stores to usher in its fall denim collection. Since 2017, Rag & Bone has partnered with the blue jeans Go Green denim recycling program. Customers can drop off any denim item such as shorts, pants, jackets and jumpers, and receive 20 percent off their denim purchase that day. The events start in Rag & Bone’s Los Angeles store on Aug. 8 and go through a total of 15 stores, concluding on Aug. 31 at the Filmore store in San Francisco. For its new fall denim collection, Rag & Bone photographed Bianca Balti using a 360-degree camera rig to illustrate the company’s commitment to a perfected fit from any angle. The Bolt Hi-Speed Cinebot, a camera known for its precision moves at ultra-high speeds, was used to show the range of rises: low, mid, high and super high. New styles for fall include the expansion of the mid-rise to include the Rosa, a relaxed mid-rise boyfriend jean, and Jane, the latest addition to the super high, with an above the waist rise and skinny leg. Bianca Balti is featured in fall Rag & Bone image.  Courtesy Photo The fits will be

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E-commerce Apparel Site Measure & Made Offers Extended Sizes

Measure & Made, the recently launched women’s e-commerce apparel company offering custom-like, fit pants powered by Fitlogic, will start offering extended sizes today. Up until this point, the brand offered sizes 0-18. It will now go from 0 through 28, using the Fitlogic sizing system that takes both a woman’s size and shape into account. The way it works is customers take a quick Fitlogic quiz online, answering questions such as their typical pants size, where they tend to gain and lose the most weight, and where their current problem areas are with their existing pants. After taking the quiz, customers can find out their Fitlogic size, which they can then use to purchase any of the Measure & Made styles. The Fitlogic system was scientifically developed and tested over a 15-year period and 94.8 percent of women fall into one of three shapes: straight, hourglass and curvy. The Measure & Made e-commerce site started in January. Pants are manufactured in China and Guatemala and range from $59.95 for trousers and ankle slim front zip pants to $79.95 for denim. The company offers a 30-day fit guarantee.

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Is Africa Luxury’s Next Golden Continent?

MARRAKECH — From Beyoncé wearing Senegalese label Tongoro in her “Spirit” video to Naomi Campbell hitting the catwalk at Arise Fashion Week in Lagos, African fashion is basking in the spotlight. For the first time, two African designers — South Africa’s Thebe Magugu and Nigeria’s Kenneth Ize — are among the finalists for the LVMH Prize for Young Designers, whose winner will be revealed on Sept. 4. With Instagram abolishing borders, countless other labels are breaking out and finding a global audience. “Internet opened Africa to the world,” said Adama Ndiaye, the designer behind the Adama Paris label and founder of Dakar Fashion Week in Senegal and Black Fashion Week events worldwide. “The girl from Kigali is watching me, and she’s watching Beyoncé, she’s watching Isabel Marant, so there’s no border anymore.” View this post on Instagram #Beyonce X #Tongoro • Scealed in time 🖤🔐✨ #Spirit #TheLionKing #MadeInAfrica #StyledByZerinaAkers A post shared by Tongoro (@tongorostudio) on Jul 17, 2019 at 1:45am PDT That increasingly global perspective, fostered by social media, is making African designs more desirable to overseas audiences, she believes. “The image Africa is now giving to the world is a new Africa, and it’s something that Europe or America can

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It’s a Muji Moment as the Japanese Retailer Advances in America

Muji is ready to spread its clean Asian aesthetic, multifarious merchandising and moderate prices across America. “We are targeting to open more than 100 stores in the U.S. by 2025,” Toru Akita, chief operating officer of Muji North America, told WWD. “We want to open additional stores in New York, Los Angeles, San Francisco and Portland and we are looking for locations in Washington, D.C., Philadelphia, Chicago, Seattle, Austin and Miami.” For the expansion, the Muji format is changing — dramatically. “Currently, our store size averages 8,000 square feet. We want to expand it to 20,000 to 25,000 square feet. That’s a big difference,” Akita said. “There are a lot of items we can introduce to North America — mainly furniture and kids wear. And we also have our Muji Diner experience in Japan, Singapore, Hong Kong, [South] Korea and China. But we have been limited in the U.S. because of the size of the stores. We have a sister company named Idée. It is also a lifestyle company mainly providing furniture, though not yet in the U.S. That is a possibility, if we have the larger stores.” Muji’s “right-angle” socks for snugger fits on 59th Street.  George Chinsee/WWD In addition, a Muji Hotel is planned

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Douglas Acquires Niche Beauty Site

PARIS –German premium beauty retailer Douglas is acquiring a majority stake in Niche Beauty, an online business focused on premium cosmetics brands from around the world. Financial terms of the deal, through which Douglas has taken a 51 percent share of Niche Beauty, were not disclosed. The move was made to strengthen Douglas’ position in the luxury cosmetics segment and to support Niche Beauty’s rapid growth. Premium and exclusive cosmetics are hot commodities in today’s beauty market. Niche Beauty’s founding family – including Laetitia von Hessen, Sarah von Doetinchem and Andreas Bechtolf – is to continue running the activity. “We are always on the lookout for promising investments that improve our portfolio and fit our #FORWARDBEAUTY strategy,” said Tina Müller, group chief executive officer of Douglas, in a statement, referring to the retailer’s brand strategy. “Niche Beauty enables Douglas to add a luxury assortment that perfectly complements the top end of our multibrand strategy.” Niche Beauty has a portfolio of more than 6,000 products from over 200 exclusive brands. “With the Douglas online shop, parfumdreams and Niche Beauty, we are offering our customers a complementary product world in line with our platform strategy,” said Vanessa Stützle, executive vice president of e-commerce and CRM at Douglas. Niche Beauty was

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The Dive Motel & Swim Club Stakes a New Path for Nashville’s Dickerson Pike

Lyon Porter and Jersey Banks are heading East again. After opening Urban Cowboy Brooklyn, a hip and intimate bed and breakfast in New York’s East Williamsburg in May 2014, the pair decamped to East Nashville to open a second outpost of their creative hospitality concept. Now, they’re scaling up even more, opening a 23-room boutique inn and swim spot, the Dive Motel & Swim Club, in a neighborhood of Nashville still on the cusp of restoration. “Nashville reminds us a lot of the energy that we felt in Williamsburg and Brooklyn when we opened there; everyone’s talking about Nashville,” says Porter. “We thought we’d offer a little watering hole oasis for people.” Dickerson Pike is a notoriously seedy stretch, but might be the next frontier for East Nashville’s rejuvenation. City planners have eyed the area, which is the subject of a city study and primed to be rezoned. Still being on the brink of change, though, created an opportunity for the Urban Cowboy team, whose boutique bed and breakfast is only a few minutes away. Once a major thoroughfare in America — formerly the Old Dixie Highway, and before that the old Buffalo trail — the area went through a boom during the

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Puma Raises FY Guidance as Q2 Sales Grow 16.9%

PARIS — Puma SE on Wednesday slightly raised its full-year guidance after a solid second quarter of healthy growth in all regions and product divisions. The Herzogenaurach, Germany-based sporting goods giant said sales in the three months ended June 30 rose 16.9 percent to 1.22 billion euros, while like-for-like net profit advanced 59.7 percent to 49.7 million euros. Both apparel and footwear showed strong growth in the period, up 22.7 percent and 14.5 percent respectively, driven by double-digit increases on a currency-adjusted basis in the Asia-Pacific and Americas regions. Puma said earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization improved by 39 percent to 80 million euros, versus 58 million euros in the equivalent year-ago period. In the first half of 2019, Puma net profits gained 46.3 percent 1.44 billion euros, while group sales increased 16.8 percent to 2.54 billion euros. In terms of full-year outlook, Puma said it now expects sales growth of around 13 percent in currency-adjusted terms, up from previous guidance of 10 percent, with net earnings expected to improve significantly. The full-year EBIT is expected to come in at between 410 million euros and 430 million euros, versus the previous guidance of between 395 million euros and 415 million euros. Puma said it has elected

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Tuesday 30 July 2019
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EssilorLuxottica Buys GrandVision

PARIS – EssilorLuxottica, the eyewear giant formed by a merger between Italy’s Luxottica and France’s Essilor, has confirmed the acquisition of Dutch optical retailer GrandVision. The company has bought previous owner HAL’s 76.72 percent interest in GrandVision at a cash purchase price equal to 28 euros per share, it said on Wednesday. With this acquisition, EssilorLuxottica will add 7,200 stores to its existing retail network of 10,000 points of sale, as well as more than  37,000 employees and 3.7 billion euros in annual revenue. The company plans to expand its optical retail platform with a focus on Europe. After the completion of the transaction with HAL, which is expected to close in 12 to 24 months, EssilorLuxottica will launch a mandatory public offer for all outstanding GrandVision shares. “With GrandVision we will be able to develop our retail network, finally extended throughout the geographies, and fully enable our multichannel and digital platforms,” said Leonardo Del Vecchio, executive chairman of EssilorLuxottica. “We will raise the quality of in-store experience for products, brands and services for the benefit of all consumers and our wholesale customers.” Hubert Sagnières, executive vice chairman of EssilorLuxottica, said: “This acquisition is another step towards our ambition to eradicate poor vision in the world

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YSL Beauté Poised to Launch Libre Women’s Scent

PARIS — After reinventing two of its iconic women’s scents over the past five years, Yves Saint Laurent Beauté is poised to launch a new feminine pillar, called Libre, in August. Black Opium, a riff on Opium, came out in 2014, while Mon Paris, a new take on Paris, was launched in 2016. Both had young, modern women in their scopes. “We were at the time targeting women in around their [mid-]twenties,” said Stephan Bezy, international general manager of YSL Beauté. He added that the demographic being drawn to the perfumes, however, was also as young as 16-year-olds. “We said now it’s time to tackle what is at the core of our DNA – the idea of freedom,” said the executive at L’Oréal, YSL’s fragrance and beauty licensee, referring to founder Yves Saint Laurent’s fashion legacy. He dressed women in trouser suits and safari jackets, and put sheer blouses on the runway. “Mr. Saint Laurent [accompanied] those women who were fighting for their freedom, their right to be independent, to be themselves and have the power to be who they want to be. Freedom [was] at the heart of Mr. Saint Laurent’s soul and aspiration,” stressed Bezy. The concept of freedom resonates no less today,

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Micaela Erlanger Signs On to Promote Platinum Guild

Celebrity stylist Micaela Erlanger has been named official ambassador for Platinum Guild International USA, a marketing board that supports the platinum jewelry industry. Erlanger — stylist for Meryl Streep, Lupita Nyong’o, Shailene Woodley and Diane Kruger and who last year released a book dedicated to accessorizing — will also be the face of the guild’s Platinum Born jewelry collection. She will make personal appearances and will feature in marketing materials related to the promotion of platinum jewelry. “I’m passionate about accessorizing, I wrote a book last year about the topic,” Erlanger said of her decision to sign on with the platinum guild. “I think jewelry and accessories really represent your personality and jewelry is such a key component of self-expression and transforming one’s style.” Erlanger recently became engaged, an occasion that she and her new fiancé marked with a platinum ring. “Micaela is known for providing a fresh perspective on styling and turning her clients into fashion icons, so she will undoubtedly inspire women everywhere with her accessory advice. Plus, she has an authentic passion for the metal platinum, so it is a perfect pairing,” said Platinum Guild International USA president Jenny Luker.

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L.A. Fashion Brand Co in Growth Mode, Looking for Investment to Open Stores

Designers Justin Kern and Stephanie Danan may be products of the Hollywood dream factory, but their take on L.A. fashion is rooted in reality. Danan, a former movie producer, and Kern, a former screenwriter and fashion model, launched Co in 2011 with a personal investment of $15,000 each, to make elegant clothing they could afford to buy themselves as working professionals. Since then, they’ve homed in on a look that’s California architectural with a feminine touch, offering a seasonal main line with such dramatic pieces as a golden brooch cream wool-satin coat ($1,495) and painterly floral satin shirtdress ($1,895), alongside a less expensive, everyday Essentials collection of sleeveless, tiered cotton sateen dresses ($595), pleated trapunto blouses ($455) and cashmere sweaters ($595). In 2014, Andrew Rosen, then-chief executive officer of Theory, took a minority stake in the brand, helping to broaden distribution to department stores including Bergdorf Goodman, Neiman Marcus and Nordstrom. Sales are growing 30 to 40 percent year-over-year, nearing the $20 million mark, with more than 100 wholesale accounts. Profitable for three years, the brand is moving into other product categories (bags bowed this month at Barneys New York, and shoes will launch exclusively at Net-a-porter in October). Now the designers are

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Swarovski Reduces, Renews, Recycles More Than Ever: Report

LONDON — Swarovski has been reducing, renewing and recycling more than ever, according to its latest sustainability report, which is set to be released Wednesday. Swarovski — which has more than 3,000 stores across 170 countries, and is a new player in the field of lab-grown diamonds — has intensified its commitment to the environment and to philanthropy. According to the report, some 35 percent of the company’s energy came from renewable sources in 2018, while 76 percent of total water demand was met with recycled water. The company reported a 29 percent drop in total energy consumption and a 56 percent reduction in scope 1 GHG emissions since 2010 across its manufacturing and production locations. Those numbers are the fruit of Swarovski’s refreshed sustainability strategy, unveiled in 2017. The company said its five strategic priorities are women’s empowerment; water stewardship; fair partnerships; conscious design, and sustainable innovation, and is looking to improve “social and environmental governance and systems” across its business units, production sites and external supply chain. “By working across our value chain, we strive to remain true to our founder Daniel Swarovski’s vision of a responsible company that not only has its employees’ well-being at heart, but also that of the environment and

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Bernard Chaus Inc. Re-brands as BCI Brands

Bernard Chaus Inc. has officially re-branded itself as BCI Brands, with the introduction of a new web site and brand collateral. The change aligns with the repurchase in October of all shares by Ariel Chaus from The Camuto Group. Chaus’ full ownership of the company and subsequent re-branding aims to preserve and acknowledge the apparel firm’s history, while continuing with its multibranded wholesale business and the fall launch of a direct-to-consumer label. Over the years, Chaus has evolved from its namesake brand to multiple national lifestyle labels, which include Chaus, Vince Camuto, 1. State, CeCe and Cynthia Steffe. “Our goal at BCI Brands is to continue to build upon our solid foundation that has withstood the ever-changing industry,” said Ariel Chaus, chief executive officer of BCI Brands. “While many apparel companies have failed, become tired, or gone downstream, we have seen success by staying relevant, being quicker than our competition, maintaining price integrity, and adapting to current trends, which we believe positions us for continued growth.” Chaus declined to discuss the soon-to-be-launched direct-to-consumer lifestyle brand, but said details will be revealed shortly. BCI Brands also has taken on multiple private-label businesses with Dillard’s, he said. BCI Brands’ wholesale business accounts for more than $400 million

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Jeffrey Kalinsky Muses on Jeffrey New York’s Milestone on West 14th Street

NEW YORK — With the end of his lease at 449 West 14th Street looming five years ago, Jeffrey Kalinsky was having second thoughts about Jeffrey New York’s Meatpacking District location. In the end, the store stayed put, and on Friday it will celebrate its 20th anniversary. “I thought I at least needed to check out where else in the city you might be able to have a great store and pay a decent rent,” Kalinsky said. “I quickly discovered that doesn’t exist. I re-signed the lease here in 2017.” While a revolving cast of retailers has come and gone on West 14th Street, Jeffrey New York has been a constant with its white exterior facade and Charleston fountain inside. “In a way, the store hasn’t changed,” Kalinsky said. “What we do and how we do it is pretty much the same. We sell product through e-commerce and participate in social media — things we weren’t doing 20 years ago — but the concept and the idea, none of that has really changed.” Such staying power is rare for a retailer in today’s Amazon-fueled world. Kalinsky was told he was crazy when he was 36 and revealed to friends on Fire Island that

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La Perla Suspends Job Cuts

MILAN — La Perla employees received a reprieve this week. In June, the Italian innerwear company said it was rationalizing its structure to focus on its core business. While pledging to keep production at its headquarters in Bologna, Italy, it planned to let go of 126 employees out of a total of 400 there. However, La Perla is now working on presenting a new industrial plan to unions, and job cuts are being suspended for the time being. On Monday, the Ministry of the Economic Development requested La Perla’s management, headed by chief executive officer Pascal Perrier, submit a new plan to help safeguard the brand and its ties to Bologna. While La Perla did not release an official comment, the Ministry’s website noted that the meeting was helmed by the vice head of cabinet Giorgio Sorial, and attended by La Perla’s representatives, local associations and members of the unions. According to the ministry, Perrier told the gathering that the “company’s crisis has persisted for several years and its relaunch needs to take place through a change in the business model, aimed at repositioning the brand in the luxury lingerie sector, the group’s core business.” Sorial underscored that the company should “present as soon as possible

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Coty Said Considering Divestitures as Part of Turnaround

Coty Inc. may be gearing up to sell assets as part of its plan to turn the business around, according to industry sources. Two sources said the business is considering divestitures, and one well-placed source noted the company is looking to shed between $500 million and $1 billion in assets. It was unclear which assets specifically were on the chopping block. A spokeswoman for Coty said the company does not comment on rumors or speculation. There is also speculation that Alejandro Vicente, senior vice president and global head of M&A for Coty, may exit the group once the divestitures are complete. One source noted that selling assets could help Coty deleverage, which is one of the key tenets of the new management team’s turnaround plan. Coty had about $7.4 billion in net debt as of March 31, the company said. In July, Coty chief executive officer Pierre Laubies and chief financial officer Pierre-André Terisse said the company would now focus on deleveraging and profitability, and that investment efforts would center around 20 “mission critical” brands that are responsible for about 60 percent of total sales. Those brands include Rimmel, Burberry, Cover Girl, Wella, Hugo Boss, Max Factor, Gucci and OPI. At that time, Terisse told Wall Street

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Monday 29 July 2019
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The Efficiency of Reverse Logistics: Inside Yerdle’s Warehouse

Yerdle may be the tech and logistics platform behind the scenes powering the resale programs of Eileen Fisher, Patagonia, Rei, Arc’teryx and Taylor Stitch, but Andy Ruben, chief executive officer and founder of Yerdle, is anything but quiet about his predictions of the resale market’s trajectory. Prior to founding the end-to-end tech and logistics platform, Ruben worked for Walmart, first in food and consumables private brands. Approaching sustainability from a product level, he improved product design, spearheaded online grocery and developed the strategy for all the stores and walmart.com. Ruben’s product-focused obsession reoriented once he ventured to the west coast, continuing his work with Walmart — on the crux of the sharing economy — witnessing pioneers such as Uber, Lyft and Airbnb utilizing “idle capacity.” “I talk to players who would have looked at me like I have three heads 12 months ago,” said Ruben, noting that the resale shift is happening for many reasons — while agreeing with near certainty that apparel resale is undergoing its “mainstreaming moment” this year. Today, it’s unclear whether Ruben’s fervor is rooted in his latest obsession of actionizing idle closet capacity or by a more palpable hunger for nudging secondhand marketplaces into second position. “Consumers are lazy,

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Is Capitalism Working?

If the world is shaking, maybe it’s because the bedrock of the American economy and global growth — the capitalist system itself — is shifting. Some say breaking. Retailers slip, only to find traction and slip again as consumers pull back on their spending or chase new dreams prizing experience and sustainability. Technology is redefining everything, from privacy to what it means to be connected to other people. The U.S. health care and educational systems are inadequate. Old racial tensions have reappeared. Fears of monopolies, this time digital, are growing. And major geopolitical chess pieces are in play with Britain preparing to jump out of the European Union, the far right gaining ground on the Continent and President Donald Trump picking fights with almost everyone. Forces that seem destined to shape history are on the move and the people lucky enough to be able to take advantage of them have been moving ahead — and rapidly. Everyone else seems to be treading water or falling further behind. Many are crying foul. Their complaints can be heard most clearly in politics — on both sides of the aisle. Just as Trump rode a wave of discontent into office, telling his working-class base that they were

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Former Victoria’s Secret CEO Is Helping Lingerie Start-up Harper Wilde Grow

Harper Wilde is getting a new bra⁠ — two actually. And former Victoria’s Secret chief executive officer Sharen Turney is helping make sure the lingerie brand keeps growing.  The Los Angeles-based start-up⁠ — which previously sold just three styles of underwire bras, some with catchy quotes on the side like “Lift Up the Ladies” ⁠— is expanding its offerings to include sports bras and bralettes.  “We really want to be able to support her through everything,” cofounder Jenna Kerner told WWD. “We want to be all of the basics, all of her foundations. But instead of just staying in typical bras, we really wanted to expand and cover her from 5 a.m. when she’s working out, to her full day of work, and into her weekend, lounging in her bralettes.”  The pocket in the back of Harper Wilde’s new sports bras is meant to hold small things like keys or a cell phone.  Courtesy Kelle Ramsey The new assortment is available on HarperWilde.com starting Tuesday and comes with features like straps that adjust from the front, making them easier to reach, and pockets on the back of the sports bras so women can hold things like a cell phone, keys or a wallet while working

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PVH’s Emanuel Chirico on Capitalism

Jamie Dimon, chief executive officer of banking giant J.P. Morgan Chase, kicked off a debate on capitalism with his annual letter to shareholders this spring. “The American Dream is alive — but fraying for many,” he wrote. “Simply put, the social needs of far too many of our citizens are not being met.” Dimon pointed to a list of shortcomings — from education to infrastructure to health care — and asked: “Is capitalism to blame? Is socialism better?” His quick answers were that capitalism is the best thing going — although it has its flaws — and that socialism doesn’t work — although he did give a shout out to “social democracies,” which combine market economies and strong social safety nets. But the banking titan did argue government and business leaders can do more. “We need a Marshall Plan for America,” he said. “Democrats have to acknowledge that many of the things that have been done as a nation — often in the name of good — have sometimes not worked….[And] Republicans need to acknowledge that America should and can afford to provide a proper safety net for our elderly, our sick and our poor.” And to ceo’s, Dimon said: “Your country needs

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Valley Nails Closing

Valley Nails, the upscale nail salon known for its trendy nail art, is closing. The move comes just days after parent company Hudson Blvd. Group, which acquired the business in May 2017, shuttered three of its Spruce & Bond waxing locations in Manhattan. Valley Nails has three freestanding locations — two in New York City and one in Scarsdale, N.Y., as well as outposts in the BLVD salons inside Neiman Marcus in Hudson Yards and in the Short Hills, N.J., mall. All locations will be closed by mid-week, according to a spokeswoman. BLVD salons will continue to offer nail services, but not under the Valley name. Hudson Blvd Group’s portfolio also includes Rachel Zoe’s DreamDry blowout bar and Pucker, a makeup studio. Neither is being impacted by the closings said a spokeswoman. The company’s president Robin Moraetes could not be reached for comment.

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Rhude’s Rhuigi Villaseñor Celebrates First Puma Collaboration at Kith in L.A.

Off the heels of Rhude’s Paris Fashion Week debut last month, Los Angeles-based designer Rhuigi Villaseñor commemorated his upcoming collaboration with Puma by throwing a party at Kith on Saturday evening. “I wanted to celebrate silhouettes that already existed, but amplify that and bring it to an audience that doesn’t necessarily understand the heritage of Puma, while incorporating my own twist,” said Villaseñor in a sit-down with Kith’s Ronnie Fieg inside the Los Angeles location of the trendy retail store on Sunset Boulevard. “I’m in a space where I feel like I can concur that. It’s for the new age.” In front of an audience that included singer Miguel and former New York Giants player Victor Cruz, Villaseñor shared that he wasn’t initially sold on the idea of working with the sportswear company. A conversation with Puma’s global director of brand and marketing, Adam Petrick, changed his mind. “It was about­­ –– just life and what’s happening in society, and I felt that he took a stand,” said Villaseñor. “It’s important to take a stand…We talked about gun violence and different things that I personally care about…I thought it was larger than just a partnership of products. It’s about ethics.” View

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Enterprising Lord & Taylor Senior Executive Gerald Blum Dies at 86

Gerald H. Blum, a longtime Lord & Taylor executive, died July 25 at age 86. Blum died at New York-Presbyterian/Columbia University Medical Center of an unspecified cause, according to Gloria Rabinowitz, a former colleague. A small ceremony may be held in the early fall and a memorial is being considered for a later date, she said. Raised in Bayonne and then North Bergen, N.J., Blum earned a liberal arts degree at New York University. As a Greenwich Village-living undergrad in 1950 in need of a part-time job, a walk up Fifth Avenue led him to his future career. A window display featuring Jacques Fath designs in the Lord & Taylor flagship stopped him cold in his tracks, according to Rabinowitz. Thinking that would be an interesting place to work, he went inside to inquire and wound up being hired as a stock boy in the designer department, she said. After a two-year stint in the U.S. Army’s Quartermaster Corps, he joined Lord & Taylor’s executive training program in 1956. There he climbed the corporate ladder working an assortment of assistant buyer and buyer jobs before being named vice president of sales promotion in 1972 and then senior vice president in 1975. He took on

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WWD List: 13 Biggest Media Brands by Social Following

As people spend more time using their phones to follow the news and trends, social media has become increasingly important for media brands to reach readers. Last year, almost 58 percent of all web visits were driven by mobile use and the remaining 42 percent came from desktop, according to researcher Perficient Digital. Although desktop use retains people for longer than mobile (about 11 minutes and six minutes, respectively) mobile is still driving traffic and reach, something media brands need to grow in order to gain ad revenue. And they are gaining on it. Researcher eMarketer projects ad spend for mobile will hit $93 billion this year, making it the largest single ad market in the U.S. The next largest is TV, with an expected $69 billion in ad spend this year. While search is vital to any media company’s brand and to driving traffic, social media also does that, as well as raise awareness of a magazine or news outlet more generally. Given its continued reach and importance, here WWD breaks down the 13 biggest media brands by social audience as of June, combining Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. 1. National Geographic, 182 million followers View this post on Instagram

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J. Crew Group Cuts Back

J. Crew Group last week eliminated dozens of positions at its New York corporate headquarters, as the retailer continues to cut costs to improve its balance sheet in advance of a potential initial public offering of its Madewell brand expected this year. Two sources said the latest cutback occurred at the J. Crew brand only, and that about half of the positions eliminated were filled; half unfilled. The precise number of cuts could not be learned, though one source close to the company said, “Hundreds would not be accurate. It was under that.” There have been other streamlinings, including two years ago when about 250 jobs at headquarters were knocked out. J. Crew has also been closing underperforming stores. “Hiring is not frozen. The company is continuing to invest,” the source added. The J. Crew Group did hire a chief customer officer this month, but is still searching for someone to fill the role of chief executive officer. The position has been vacant since Jim Brett left last November, and the company is being run by Michael J. Nicholson, who is serving as interim ceo of J. Crew Group. “As part of our continued work to strengthen J. Crew’s business, we’ve reduced a

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Retail Paradigm: Pursuing Alternative Revenue Streams

It’s become the hottest trend in retailing — scrambling for alternative revenue and profit streams. Selling off real estate or divisions aside, retailers are increasingly seeking payback via unorthodox collaborations, sponsorships and by developing ancillary businesses. It’s a matter of pursuing out-of-the-box solutions to offset weakness at core operations, better the bottom line and respond to pressures to innovate. Macy’s, for example, uses its Story format to tap brands, even competitors such as Dick’s Sporting Goods, for sponsorships. Kohl’s is testing health and wellness offerings from Weight Watchers and collecting fees from Amazon for utilizing stores as pickup and return points for Amazon packages. Kohl’s has even sold a small stake to the Seattle-based e-tail giant. Nordstrom keeps advancing its food and beverage offerings and opening Nordstrom Local service hubs, which encourage consumers to shop the full-line stores and online. And Dollar General recently linked with Western Union to provide money wire transfers. Costco has an array of services — from home insurance and identity protection to delivering bottled water — and at the Casper mattress store on Mercer Street in Manhattan, one can book a 45-minute nap for $25. Best Buy recently introduced an “assured living” service to help seniors at home by installing

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WWD Report Card: The Democratic Style Stakes

The second round of debates among the 20 candidates seeking the Democratic party’s presidential nomination are Tuesday and Wednesday. Sure, their policies will be more important than their fashion sense, but numerous studies have shown that looks can result in a major swing of votes from one candidate to the next. So style does matter — and, here, WWD grades the field. Sen. Amy Klobuchar  Charlie Neibergall/Courtesy Amy Klobuchar: B We appreciate a commitment for the Irish holiday. Sticking to a kelly green would’ve been more precise; the teal scarf feels less coordinated. But bonus points for the effort. Governor John Hickenlooper  Charles Krupa/Courtesy John Hickenlooper: B+ He’s dressed like a ceo off-duty. The layering of the outerwear vest underneath the blazer — with the dark pants — feels very Ivy League. He might have an issue relating to the masses, but he’s very appropriately dressed for a shopping spree in Milan. Andrew Yang  CJ GUNTHER/Courtesy Andrew Yang: C- We love the American flag, but unless you’re an Olympic skier representing the U.S., leave the patriotic scarf at home. We understand the cold temperatures, but ear muffs, really? Tulsi Gabbard  Charlie Neibergall/Courtesy Tulsi Gabbard: A- She appears elegant, simple and powerful — everything a presidential candidate should look. The tweed-like elongated blazer suits her very well

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Sunday 28 July 2019
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Fox News Breaking News Alert

Fox News Breaking News Alert

4 dead, including gunman, in shooting at Gilroy Garlic Festival, 15 injured

07/28/19 10:37 PM
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Texworld Talks Upcycling Options

At Texworld last week, the focus on sustainability was clear — or rather green. Check-in reveals the usual show materials and a leafy green pamphlet all-its-own denoting the sustainable highlights of the textile trade show, which included its “Textile Talks” programming series and a panel on upcycling. The panel, “Upcycling: Exploring Options in Today’s Landscape & How Brands and Individuals Can Make a Difference,” covered everything from brand overstock, returns and textile recycling methods to the best way to design and market upcycled goods, so that the “cool factor” is evident. Panelists included: Rachel Kibbe, cofounder of Helpsy, a large-scale clothing and textile recycler; Patrick Duffy, founder of Global Fashion Exchange, an international education platform on sustainability; Daniel Pinto, director of business development and strategy at Scoop, a Portugal-based manufacturer that partners with brands such as Calvin Klein, DKNY and Tommy Hilfiger; Rachel Lincoln, director of sustainability and product ops at Prana, and Nicole Bassett, cofounder of the Renewal Workshop, a certified renewal partner of Mara Hoffman and Prana, among others. The conversation was moderated by 0, a social good enterprise partnering with Vietnamese artisans. “With the upcycling panel, it was important to talk about all the different organizations that have a piece

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Texworld USA’s Summer Edition Features Glittering, Space-Age Fabrics

Fabrics flickering with glitter, sparkly threads and space-age leitmotifs are trending for fall 2020, a season poised to deliver highly detailed scenic textiles and an endless array of shimmer and shine, according to the textiles showcased during last week’s Texworld USA at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center in New York. And it follows that all things cosmic point to dark and somewhat daunting themes for fall: Texworld’s trend categories include amorphous, celestial concepts such as immemorial spell, apocalyptic fascination, astral ecstasy and synthetic dazzle. Color schemes are cool-toned and cover a wide spectrum, featuring a range of neutrals with names like “cosmic sediment” or “mineral brightness”; a slate gray and almost-black hue called “urban dust” and “shaded carbon,” respectively; a rich green titled “poisonous chlorophyll,” or “gelled lichen,” a mint-tone; a periwinkle blue referred to as “icy horizon” or “azure fragment,” a cyan blue, and brighter pops of color in the vein of “celestial pitaya,” a ruby-toned hot pink and “expanded sunflower,” a gilded yellow. Cosmic sequined textile by Sintex.  Prints for the season are complicated scenes that are sure to elicit conversation: Think of vignettes depicting detailed highway layouts, neighborhoods and landscapes, which may — or may not — seek to

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Field Notes: Gold of the Andes

Uncommon prints, intricately woven textiles and impressive embroideries were seen all throughout the selection at Perú Moda, the latest edition of the Peruvian fashion trade show held on July 23 at Metropolitan Pavilion in New York. With 23 Peruvian factories exhibiting, the story was sustainability, with many major U.S. fashion brands such as Alexander Wang, Tory Burch and Marc Jacobs in attendance. And those brands are likely scouting out the latest on alpaca, the fiber once considered the “gold of the Andes.” Worn by Incan royalty, alpaca has become known today as a wholly sustainable fiber. Aside from its light, feathery-feel, buttery softness and adaptability to dyeing and weaving, alpaca has a natural range of more than 22 colors, which largely eliminates the need to dye it. And it doesn’t hurt that it also possesses a silky, attractive sheen — but brands are choosing alpaca for its most basic characteristics, as it is hypoallergenic, water-resistant, temperature controlled, biodegradable, antimicrobial, breathable and lightweight. Jessica Rodriguez, founder and chief executive officer of Antarrah, a sleek women’s wear line and Art Atlas, a socially driven enterprise that specializes in the manufacturing of garments, accessories and household products for fashion luxury brands, both based in Peru,

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CFDA, Accessories Council Announce Elaine Gold Launch Pad Finalists

The Council of Fashion Designers of America and the Accessories Council have named five finalists for their third annual Elaine Gold Launch Pad program, which supports new companies. The finalists are Tribe + Glory’s Loren Thomas and Caragh Bennet; Graham Baldwin’s Graham Tyler; Shanel’s Shanel Campbell; Bond Hardware’s Dana Hurwitz and Mariah Pershadsingh, and Rui Zhou. Each finalist has been in business for less than three years and will vie for a portion of the fund’s $175,000 in prize money. Over the course of 23 weeks, finalists will partake in a “virtual residency” that sees them review their business strategies, brand concepts and design offerings. “As CFDA and Accessories Council enter the third year of Elaine Gold Launch Pad, we are immensely proud of the success of past participants. They have pioneered new approaches to fashion such as inclusivity, accessibility and circularity. They look at the fashion model through a whole new lens, which is exciting and inspiring,” said Steven Kolb, chief executive officer of the CFDA. “We were delighted to have more entrants than ever before. It was quite a task to pick the group for this round! We are excited to start working with this talented and diverse team!” added Accessories Council

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Condé Nast Britain Returns to Profit in 2018 Despite Turnover Decline

BACK IN BLACK: Condé Nast Britain, which manages British Vogue, GQ, Tatler and 10 other brands, swung back to profit in fiscal 2018, despite a 7.8 decline in turnover. Ahead of filing at Companies House, the official register of U.K. businesses, Condé revealed that profit was about 2.7 million pounds, compared with a loss of 13.6 million pounds in the previous year, when restructuring costs weighed on the bottom line. Profit was still lower than in 2016, when Condé Nast Britain reported takings of 4.3 million pounds, roughly the same as in 2015. Revenue in 2018 fell 7.8 percent to 104.6 million pounds, due chiefly to the cut in Glamour’s print frequency from 12 to two issues a year. The title relaunched in March 2018 as a beauty-first, mobile-first, Millennial-focused brand and has expanded its live events business to Manchester, England and launched the Glamour Beauty Club, a product sampling business. During the period, oversight of the Condé Nast College of Fashion moved from the British arm to Condé Nast International Ltd., which is being merged with the publisher’s U.S. parent. Condé Britain, which operates 13 magazine brands in the U.K., described 2018 as “a strong year,” with positive performance across the business leading into 2019.

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The Outside View: Millennials Versus Generation Z

Both generations are young and tech-savvy and they might listen to the same music and binge Netflix shows, but when it comes to marketing to Millennials and Generation Z, brands and retailers must treat them differently. Even Millennials — who are between 22 and 38 years old now — have to sometimes marvel at their younger counterparts, who were born into Wi-Fi-enabled lives with thumbs attached to smartphones and social media profiles as identity markers. The differences between these two generations can be small, but they add up to distinct shopping habits. And brands and retailers who keep those differences in mind are more likely to reap the rewards. Sharable Content  Generations Z’s all-encompassing embrace of technology is a vital differentiator. One of our consumer studies found that Gen Zers carry up to five devices on average and spend more than seven hours a day on social media, continuously checking and refreshing their social media feeds every few minutes. Brands and retailers need to take advantage of the little time they have to grab their attention. That means communicating in quick bursts. It also means creating highly sharable content that is easy to digest and uses “language” to which Gen Z relates — words

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Diesel USA Embarks on Path to Profitability in 2021

Diesel USA is adding fuel to its turnaround plan. After filing for voluntary bankruptcy protection in March, Diesel USA, a subsidiary of Italian parent company Diesel SpA, received approval of its Chapter 11 plan in April. It has now outlined an aggressive plan to return Diesel U.S.A. to profitability in 2021. Stefano Rosso, the 40-year-old chief executive officer of Diesel North America, spoke for the first time about the U.S. company’s bankruptcy and how he feels the brand has emerged much stronger and ready to tackle new growth opportunities. “It’s quite normal as an action in the U.S., but the word bankruptcy gets bigger headlines in the media. The reason we filed Chapter 11 is we wanted to get out of this specific moment of our life lighter and stronger than ever,” he told WWD in an exclusive interview. He said it was an action to get out of some retail leases that were dragging the unit’s profit and losses down. At the time of the March bankruptcy filing,  Diesel USA operated 28 stores across 11 states, consisting of 17 full-price locations and 11 factory outlet stores. Diesel USA had $100 million in assets and about $50 million in debt. The company attributed the

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Duchess of Sussex Takes Charge of British Vogue’s September Issue

LONDON — The Duchess of Sussex has taken control of September’s British Vogue, dedicating it to 15 “fearless  women,” including Jane Fonda, Jacinda Ardern, Greta Thunberg and Salma Hayek Pinault, in an issue dubbed “Forces for Change.” The duchess is the first person to guest edit the September issue of the title: It includes a conversation between her and former U.S. First Lady Michelle Obama, and an interview by Prince Harry with the ethologist and primatologist Dr. Jane Goodall. This is the second time that Goodall is grabbing the spotlight this summer after taking a featured role in Stella McCartney’s fall ad campaign. “These last seven months have been a rewarding process, curating and collaborating with Edward Enninful [the title’s editor in chief] to take the year’s most read fashion issue and steer its focus to the values, causes and people making impact in the world today,” said the duchess, Meghan Markle. “Through this lens I hope you’ll feel the strength of the collective in the diverse selection of women chosen for the cover as well as the team of support I called upon within the issue to help bring this to light. I hope readers feel as inspired as I do, by the

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Fox News Breaking News Alert

Fox News Breaking News Alert

Dan Coats to leave post as director of national intelligence as Trump selects Rep. John Ratcliffe as replacement

07/28/19 1:56 PM
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Sander Lak of Sies Marjan Makes Whirlwind Stop in Chicago

Sander Lak’s secret to juggling a nonstop schedule? Time management, but also, “a Diet Coke, a piece of chocolate and some licorice.” “It’s like a push and pull I have to do this but I also have to do 50 other things that are equally important,” said Lak, the designer behind the New York-based Sies Marjan. “It’s literally nonstop. It’s never one thing. It’s always 50 things at one time.” The designer jetted to Chicago to host a cocktail reception Friday evening at The Gwen for 10 of Nordstrom’s best customers, top-level members of Nordy Club, the retailer’s loyalty program. The cocktail was followed by a fashion show at Nordstrom Michigan Avenue, showcasing 12 looks from the collection. Lak wanted to spend the weekend in the Windy City, doing touristy stuff, like the architecture boat tours, but due to his busy schedule, that will have to wait until a trip planned for September. “I have to split my time, not only my time, but my energy,” said Lak, whose current to-do list includes working on the women’s show in September, women’s shoes, the women’s collection for December, men’s collection for January, women’s show in February, collaborations and marketing. “I have an amazing team

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Celebrating Carrie Mae Weems, Katherine Rayner at the Watermill Center Summer Benefit

The first thing guests of the Watermill Center Benefit heard Saturday night when they entered the forested grounds where the sprawling art space is located was the steady beat of a snare drum and high hat. The quick booms and snaps were punctuated by a woman’s wailing. The unnerving sound foreshadowed what attendees would find as they wound deeper into the woods — a spectacular and at times terrifying series of art installations.  This year’s Summer Benefit and Auction in Water Mill, N.Y. honored arts patron Katherine Rayner and the artist Carrie Mae Weems. To celebrate, Maxwell Osborne, Nicole Miller, Damian Loeb, Peter Marino and Isabella Rossellini spent the night dining under a bed of stars, drinking wine and observing artworks. The pieces — some nestled in the wooded clearings so deeply guests did double takes to ensure they were actually part of the show — ranged from live dance performances to people cocooned in Saran Wrap. That’s not an exaggeration. Two humans at a time entombed entirely in stretchy plastic — some limp, others twitching, strewn about the lawn like dead bodies. Nearby, three people in red feathers with their faces obscured by red stocking caps sat on a roof, dragging

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Saturday 27 July 2019
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Cunard’s Transatlantic Fashion Week Gets Early Start

Twenty-four hours before embarking on Cunard’s Transatlantic Fashion Week, Stephen Jones, Rose Marie Bravo, Craig West, Stanley Tucker, Colin McDowell and other soon-to-be travelers shared a breakfast Saturday morning at Tiffany’s Blue Box Café. Entering the Fifth Avenue landmark before normal business hours, several guests lingered on the shopper-free main floor, peering into the glass cases glistening with diamonds and Elsa Peretti’s contoured cuffs. Upstairs, a Tiffany blue-tinged marble wall in the Blue Box Café was a point of discussion, as was the sport of packing, due to the overly summery weather on both sides of the Atlantic and plans for three at-sea, black-tie affairs. Just as reserving a Cunard stateroom requires some advance work, so, too, does securing a seat in the café where a 5,000-person monthly waiting list is the norm, according to Bravo, a Tiffany’s board member. Dressed for the occasion in a robin’s egg blue-colored coat and dress, laden with Schlumberger-Tiffany jewels, Bravo said, “I feel like a Christmas tree, but I thought I’d go all-out for Tiffany.” Eager to set sail for the seven-day crossing, Bravo welcomed others who will be part of the fashion lineup for this fourth annual event. Milliner Jones will be the main

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Friday 26 July 2019
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Luke Evans Fronts Versace Eyewear Campaign

MILAN — For the first time, Luke Evans, a friend of the Versace house, is fronting a campaign for the Italian brand, one dedicated to eyewear. The idea is to support the launch of the men’s eyewear collection with a personality in line with the brand and its values and Evans “is the embodiment of the modern man,” said Donatella Versace. “A true gentleman, with style and culture, funny and talented and — obviously — devilishly handsome and sexy. He is charming on so many levels, but the most important one is the fact that he is real.” In the images lensed by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott, a sultry Evans does turn up the charm, also donning several gold rings and chains, or slipping a hand under his jacket over his bare chest.  Luke Evans in the Versace eyewear campaign.  Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. “With time, I also discovered his great heart and incredible generosity,” continued the designer. “We met for the first time more or less a year ago at an event and it was love at first sight. I was charmed not only by his looks, but mostly by what he had to say. This is why when the time came

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Jack Bannon Tells His Own Batman Story

Jack Bannon was hiding in plain sight at Comic-Con. “Luckily, the show isn’t out yet. We’re kind of under the radar; this is our free-pass year where no one knows who we are,” Bannon says over the phone from his San Diego hotel room, where he’s taking a beat between convention commitments. “I’ve walked past a big poster of me, which was very surreal, but no one seemed to notice. No one batted an eyelash, which I thought was amazing.” Such is the blessing of playing the lead role of the latest installment in the Batman universe, the Epix prequel series “Pennyworth,” which tells the story of Alfred Pennyworth, Batman’s butler — but doesn’t premiere until Sunday. The English actor says when it came to researching the part, he stopped himself from going down too much of a rabbit hole, for fear of intimidation. Jack Bannon  Dan Doperalski/WWD “There have been so many brilliant interpretations, so the way I dealt with it — because it’s a daunting list of names — was that they’re following me more than I’m following them, because in the story, I’m first,” Bannon says, noting actors like Michael Caine and Jeremy Irons have played the Alfred character in past films. “Which

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First, Do No Harm: The Birth of the Wellness-First Antiaging Skin-care Movement

The antiaging segment is getting a wellness-minded makeover.  Instead of damaging underlayers of skin in order to prompt plumping and cell turnover, a new crop of up-and-coming skin-care brands is taking a different approach to antiaging. Rather than offering harsh treatments that yield “instant” results, these lines center around the health of the skin barrier and target glowing results over wrinkle-free ones. Some advocates of the philosophy advise avoiding antiaging staples — like Retinol, lasers or acids, as well as some forms of micro-needling — altogether.  The concept isn’t exactly new, pointed out Vicky Tsai, the founder of Tatcha, who noted that in Eastern cultures, skin health has been at the center of skin care for a long time. But in Western cultures, especially the U.S., consumers have long opted for a problem-solution approach over holistic thinking.  “It starts as early as our teenage years when we start developing oil production on the skin and we go straight toward the things with alcohol and dry the skin out,” Tsai said. “It’s really aggressive, honestly.”  But for a subset of today’s consumers, the shift to self care — skin care included — means a different approach to aging. “To a point, there is a lot more

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Peter Pilotto and Boss to Show at Milan Fashion Week

MILAN — Just ahead of the summer holidays earmarked for most of the Italian fashion crowd, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana today released the first official draft of its Milan Fashion Week schedule, running Sept. 17 to 23. Among the biggest novelties peppering the calendar, Peter Pilotto, after 12 years of shows in London, will make its official debut in Milan with a show on Sept. 18 at the Teatro Manzoni venue. “We are very honored to join the Camera della Moda Italiana Fashion Week calendar and engage on this new journey,” said Peter Pilotto, who founded the namesake label with Christopher de Vos in 2007. “We are also proud to represent British fashion abroad in such a key and sophisticated fashion capital as Milan.” The brand in January tapped an Italian chief executive officer, Maia Guarnaccia. The upcoming Milan Fashion Week will also see the debut of the Boss brand, which will stage a coed runway show Sept. 22 at Tortona Area Lab, as well as of leather specialist Drome, which will relocate its show from Paris. “I think that we are unveiling a great, strong calendar featuring a great mix of international labels, storied brands and talented emerging designers,” said Camera Nazionale della

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Mulberry Takes Full Control of Korea Business, Part of a Larger Strategy

LONDON – Mulberry has taken full control of its subsidiary in Korea, the brand’s second biggest retail market globally, as part of a wider international development strategy. The British accessories brand said Friday it had acquired a minority interest in the share capital of Mulberry Korea, giving it 100 percent ownership of the division. Mulberry bought the 40 percent stake previously held by its local partner, SHK Holdings Limited, and made an additional investment in Mulberry Korea of 1.3 million pounds. The group originally took its South Korean operations in-house last year via a new, majority-owned company with SHK. SHK introduced a new, local site and omnichannel platform. Together with its initial investment of 3.1 million pounds made last August, the group’s total investment in Mulberry Korea has been 4.4 million pounds. “Over the last eighteen months, we have recruited a new management team and taken day to day control of the business in South Korea, an important market for luxury goods where the Mulberry brand has significant growth potential,” said Mulberry’s chief executive officer Thierry Andretta. “We would like to thank our longstanding partner, SHK, for its invaluable contribution in developing Mulberry in South Korea. Taking full ownership of our business marks an exciting development in advancing

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Thursday 25 July 2019
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Think Tank: What It Takes to Create a Digital-First C-suite

So, you want to be a modern, successful retailer? Then get with the tech program. From the c-suite to the sales force and through the back office, there is no hiding place. Driven by the need for connectivity in the use of big data, the new “tech skills” in retail are necessarily impacting everyone across every role and every function. This sense of challenging and even scary brave new world — allied to often successful disruption of the traditional retailers — has led some to feel that we are somehow in the midst of a retail apocalypse. We are not, in fact, experiencing the slow death of an industry but simply a reinvention — where current upheavals, competition and disruption will result in a better, more agile and frankly more exciting consumer-centric landscape, with technology at its core. Consumer Changes Shake Old Ways People are still going to be buying stuff. The stuff will be smarter, and the buying smarter, too. In fact, technology innovations — both to products and the whole process of buying — drive and are driven by customer behavior and requirements. This dynamic at the heart of retail has not changed: when to nudge and lead your customers, and when to

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QVC Pulls Beauty iQ Off-Air, Makes Subscription Box the Next Millennial Play

QVC is making some updates to its Millennial strategy. Most notably, the multiplatform retailer in April quietly pulled the Beauty iQ channel from cable networks in favor of shifting focus to its digital and app presence. Also, during its Black Friday in July digital event today, QVC will launch a subscription beauty box — the Try It Love It, or TILI, box — that will be promoted by influencers. QVC has tried sampling boxes before, but the TILI is its first play at subscription. The monthly cost is $25 plus tax and shipping, and the first, a collaboration with influencer Lauren McBride, contains eight full- and sample-size products from brands such as Sunday Riley, Bare Minerals, Becca and Origins. Though QVC is admittedly late to the game on subscription boxes, “We knew it would be a great way to connect with the consumer, and we think this could be a substantial business,” said Rob Robillard, the company’s vice president of beauty merchandising. The TILI box is an opportunity for data collection, but the retailer is also expecting strong conversion, he added. QVC is hoping to foster a community with the TILI, going so far as to create a private Facebook group called “I Love

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