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Sunday, 30 June 2019
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Paris Scene: What’s New for Couture Season

Paris is on fire — and that’s not just temperature-wise. From new shops, restaurants, spas and art exhibitions, the city is a hotbed of newness. Here’s a selection of where to go during this summer’s couture season. NEW LEGACY: The Hôtel Barrière Fouquet’s Paris has a new retail space, called Legacy. Set up by Bow Group and Sébastien Chapelle, who formerly headed the watches and high-tech offer at Colette, the space sells high-tech grooming tools from Dyson and Braun; exclusive watch models from labels such as Corum and Casio G-Shock; jewelry, and books by Rizzoli and Taschen. Interior decorator Jacques Garcia designed the plush space, which is tucked next to the Marta bar, with red moiré curtains and a purple carpet. — Mimosa Spencer Legacy 46 Avenue George V, 75008 Tel.: +33-1-40-69-60-00 Open Monday to Sunday, 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. HITTING THE TOWN: An eighth-floor rooftop bar, an arty terrace and a former train station transformed into a colorful restaurant: This couture season, Paris is teeming with exciting new spots to let off steam in between shows. After a bit of shopping at Parisian department store Galeries Lafayette, head to the eighth floor of the building to take in the spectacular panoramic view of the Opéra Garnier and the

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Dior to Open Temporary Champs-Elysées Store on July 15

FACE OFF: The Dior flagship on Avenue Montaigne is about to close for renovations, but the facade of the building will travel: a reproduction of the historic headquarters will be superimposed on its new temporary boutique on Avenue des Champs-Elysées, opening on July 15. The trompe l’oeil image, which lifts up at the corner like a page being turned, also went up on an advertising billboard on Place de la Concorde in Paris on Monday. The trompe l’oeil facade of the Dior store.  Courtesy The Dior store, located next to the Publicis Drugstore and across the road from Cartier, opens at a troubled time for the Champs-Elysées, which has been repeatedly closed to traffic and public transport since the gilets jaunes, or yellow vests, protests started last November. The Avenue Montaigne boutique will close shortly before the Champs-Elysées store opens its doors, a spokeswoman for the brand said. The new boutique at 30 Avenue Montaigne, a building which also houses offices and the brand’s haute couture ateliers, is expected to reopen in 2020.

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EXCLUSIVE: Qeelin Opens Boutique on Place Vendôme

PARIS — With an eye to global expansion, Kering-owned Qeelin, a contemporary Chinese jewelry label, has set down roots at the epicenter of high jewelry: the Place Vendôme in Paris. Tucked between two iconic French luxury labels — fellow Kering house Boucheron and the traditional French shirt maker Charvet, the brand is the new kid on the block. Not for long, however, as another Kering label, Gucci — which makes its high jewelry debut this week— will soon be opening a store on the square. Qeelin chief executive officer Christophe Artaux described the move as fitting founder Dennis Chan’s original goal of taking contemporary Chinese jewelry “to the world,” and making an international brand from Chinese origins. “How can you do that better than expressing it in Place Vendôme which is somewhat the landmark of international jewelry — that’s really about affirming the vision of the founder,” said Artaux. Inside the Qeelin boutique on Place Vendôme.  © Eric Sander The store is decorated with blocks of traditional gray bricks — the kind that were used to build Beijing over the centuries — set at angles to form zigzags. Offsetting the gray matte tone are touches of red and lacquered paint, while the jewelry is ensconced

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Field Notes: The Business of Being Green

Green consumerism is on the rise — and that means fashion brands are responding with the adoption of sustainable initiatives all across the spectrum. And companies such as Thr3efold, a technology start-up that connects fashion brands to ethical factories worldwide, seeks to set sustainable businesses up for success through its new Coaching Club that launches in July. The program is designed to equip small brands with knowledge and strategy needed to thrive in a fiercely competitive market, providing businesses with “answers to un-Google-able questions.” Its six-month digital group coaching program is accessed through a membership that includes four online brand courses: Pitch Press, Rock Retailers, Master Marketing and Crush Crowdfunding. Jessica Kelly, founder and ceo of Thr3efold, said the company is “excited to package our 25-plus years of experience in marketing, sales, p.r., production, and development into an affordable membership to provide our brands with the keys to success in the fashion industry.” And regarding its focus on small brands, Kelly explained that “The bulk of the ethical and sustainable fashion movement has come from a groundswell of small brands that have harnessed the power of profit for good. We want to equip them to do what they do even better,”

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Partnership Programs May Be the Secret to Driving Revenue Growth

Enterprises are joining hands and expanding partnership programs in an effort to drive revenue growth. And, according to a Forrester report commissioned by Impact, the results are paying off while companies make seeking business partnerships a priority. Impact is a partnership automation solution that helps companies boost sales, and counts among its clients companies such as Cabela’s, Fanatics, Getty Images, Lenovo, Levi Strauss & Co., TechStyle and Ticketmaster, among others. The Forrester research was based on an online survey with decision makers at 454 companies worldwide. Partnership types vary and can involve strategic partnerships, traditional affiliates, media houses, influencers, retailers, resellers and value-added resellers, or VARs, dealers or agents, service providers and nontraditional affiliates or ambassadors. With the high-maturity companies the focus is on scaling as well as growth through technology investments and partnerships. The best partnership programs lend a handful of gains, including a boost in market reach and higher loyalty. Looking at the year ahead, three in four respondents, or 77 percent, see partnership development as central to their 2019 sales and marketing strategy. Forrester found that companies with the most mature partnership programs are growing overall company revenue nearly twice as fast as companies with idling or smaller programs. Maturity

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Gen Z Wants It Now: BOPIS a Component of Next-Gen Retailing

Automated locker solutions provider Package Concierge unveiled new findings about the shopping behaviors of Gen Z that showed while they want shopped goods now, how they prefer to get items varied. Moreover, the physical store hasn’t lost its luster among this new crop of shoppers. Nearly 90 percent of Gen Z consumers made an in-store purchase when at the shopping mall, according to the report, which was conducted by Zogby Analytics and involved polling more than 1,000 people, aged 18 to 25 years old. Although leaning into traditional shopping methods, Gen Z’s method of retrieval varies, the research showed, with more than half — or 58 percent — of respondents having tried buy online, pickup in store, or BOPIS, and nearly two-thirds using it within the last month. The majority — or 60 percent — of Gen Zers said BOPIS played a factor in retailer selection, so retailers are best to outline a strategy now, as industry experts warn. “The BOPIS strategy is only as strong as the ease and innovation of its fulfillment method,” Georgianna W. Oliver, founder of Package Concierge, said in a statement. She believes the data confirms the evolving behaviors and a growing preference for both online and in-store

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From Capri With Love: Fashion, Lifestyle and Sustainability Experts Share Precious Advice

While celebrating with Zimmermann the opening of the brand’s first store in Capri, three eminent guests sat down with WWD to share their five tips for… THE ULTIMATE HOLIDAY WARDROBE Roopal Patel  Courtesy Photo/Virgil Eguinard “I think there are five essentials that every woman needs to have with her on a summer vacation,” said Roopal Patel, Saks Fifth Avenue fashion director.  1. Obviously if you are going to a beach holiday you need to find the perfect bikini, or bathing suit that works for you. I always like carrying a neutral bathing suit and then a printed bathing suit. 2. It’s great to have one versatile dress that you can wear day to evening, you can wear to the beach, to the beach club, at lunch, but also to go out at night. For example, a printed dress from Zimmermann is perfect, because they have so many great prints to choose from. 3. Definitely you need flats, I think everyone is always stressed about packing high heels on vacation and honestly it is not that chic sometimes. I really love Aquazzura flats, they do a great assortment of metallic whether it’s gold, or silver, they work well with everything, and again day to night. 4. For every holiday

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Fashionphile Aims to Play With Luxury’s Heavy Hitters

Sarah Davis envisions the day when brands such as Hermès, Chanel and Louis Vuitton partner with luxury resale ecommerce sites such as Fashionphile, the company she founded in 1999, recognizing that circularity matters to consumers, and that the the sale of an unwanted item frees up room in closets for something new, bringing sales back to the brands. If the idea of closely held French couture and ready-to-wear house Chanel (which is already suing Fashionphile competitor The RealReal and What Goes Around Comes Around), or luxury groups like LVMH Moët Hennessey Louis Vuitton, Compagnie Financière Richemont or Kering hooking up with the 20-year-old Fashionphile sounds a little far-fetched, it would be a mistake to discount Davis. The fact that most luxury brands don’t sell handbags, fine jewelry and very expensive watches online is by all intents and purposes an engraved invitation to Fashionphile and similar sites to sell “gently used” products to consumers who don’t have access to brands’ boutiques, which are typically in major cities and very selective secondary and resort markets. “Louis Vuitton was the first to sell online, Chanel, Hermès and Goyard are forcing consumers to resell and losing hundreds of millions of dollars to recommerce,” Davis said. “We want

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Zimmermann Expands Its Resort Business With Boutique in Capri

CAPRI — “You have to be physically fit to work in fashion. The pace is frenetic and it’s a lot of work.” Nicky Zimmermann, cofounder and creative director of Australian women’s brand Zimmermann, confessed during an interview on Friday in Capri, where the fashion label organized a two-day event to mark the opening of its first store on the chic Mediterranean island. Despite her busy schedule and the frequent trips from her native Australia to other countries, the designer revealed she enjoys her working life. “Having fun is so important for us. I’m so lucky that I work with my sister [the brand’s cofounder, Simone Zimmermann] and my husband [the company’s chief executive officer Chris Olliver] and we truly enjoy what we do,” Zimmermann said. The Zimmermann store in Capri.  Ed Reeve/Courtesy Photo. The brand made a name for itself with its signature feminine, colorful and lively take on ready-to-wear and swimwear. That touch was translated into the brand’s new store here, designed by Australian architect Don McQualter of Studio McQualter. The boutique is located on a pink building on Via Vittorio Emanuele, the island’s beating heart a few steps from the legendary Piazzetta square and the luxury Quisisana hotel, the 764-square-foot boutique.

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Bridget Foley’s Diary: LVMH, A Matter of Pride

Whatever is the opposite of a beauty junky, I’m it. Fifty options of beige and brown for my face and eyes agitate rather than exhilarate, like the angsty process of distilling a million swatches down to that single perfect shade of white paint. I shop for makeup out of dire need, not for fun. Yet I experienced one of my most memorable shopping moments at a Sephora. Two Christmases ago, on the hunt for a fragrance for a 13-year-old girl, I selected something youthful and headed for checkout. “Would you like it monogrammed?” a woman asked, motioning toward an etching machine. When I said that I didn’t know the girl’s initials, only her first name, Amanda, the woman looked quizzical until I told her that I’d taken the girl’s ornament from an angel tree. “Let’s do ‘Amanda,’” she said. The no-charge process was tedious (at least to an impatient type), starting with expert removal of the cellophane covering the box, to be restored at the end of the process. The bottle then went under the machine needle, forming each letter deliberately and slowly. With the last curve of the last “a” complete, the woman wasn’t satisfied with the depth of relief. Despite

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Asos x ‘The Lion King’ Collaboration Taps Into Nineties Nostalgia

Asos is tapping into the hype for “The Lion King.” The fast-fashion retailer is teaming with Disney to create a capsule collection based on the much-loved movie ahead of its upcoming live-action reboot, which will premiere in theaters on July 19. Read More: How Asos Is Helping ‘Life Is Beautiful’ Diversify Product Beyond the Festival Hitting Nineties nostalgia at its core, the collection leverages original scenes and beloved characters from the 1994 animated version, including images of Simba, Nala, Timon, Pumbaa and Zazu. The pieces also incorporate popular prints from the decade, like tie-dye and animal and tropical patterns. The collection spans women’s wear and men’s — also available in Asos Curve and Asos Plus sizes — and offers pieces like button-up shirts, shorts, T-shirts, sweaters, bodysuits, windbreakers, socks and hats. Standout collection pieces include a matching two-piece set featuring a print of Zazu the toucan and a T-shirt depicting the film’s famous “Circle of Life” scene, where Simba is introduced to the animal kingdom. The collection ranges in price from $13 to $87. The collaboration with Asos comes after Luminess Cosmetics released its Lion King limited-edition collection created with Beyoncé’s makeup artist, Sir John. The collection’s offerings are for the eye, lip and face

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What Brands Should Look for in a Chinese Partner

Chinese investors and partners: Are they a turnkey solution that will open doors to the world’s most lucrative consumer market, or a culture clash waiting to happen? The number of deals between Western brands and Chinese firms is unmistakably surging, from the sale of a majority stake in Jason Wu to private equity firm Green Harbor in May to the stream of acquisitions and partnerships coming from the likes of Ruyi Fashion Holding Group and Fosun. Self Portrait is the latest brand to hold talks with several interested Chinese parties. Brand founder Han Chong revealed to WWD that the London-based contemporary women’s wear label is targeting a venture for China with a local fashion company and expects to finalize a deal soon. “China moves so fast; in order to catch up with that, having a good partner is crucial,” said the designer. “Despite me being Malaysian Chinese, it’s still very hard for me to navigate the way, the speed and the culture of Chinese doing business.” WWD has also learned that Zadig & Voltaire is expanding its venture with IT Group to include Mainland China, despite owner Thierry Gillier’s rude comments regarding Chinese tourists back in 2012, which resulted in muted interest from investors

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Paris Couture Seeks New Blood as Business Booms

PARIS — As Paris prepares to hold its first haute couture week since the death of Karl Lagerfeld, brands large and small are vowing to keep the art form alive by drafting a new generation of craftspeople into their specialized workshops. All eyes will be on Virginie Viard, who succeeded Lagerfeld as artistic director of Chanel, when she presents her first solo couture collection for the house on Tuesday. Bruno Pavlovsky, president of fashion and president of Chanel SAS, noted that the 57-year-old designer was intimate with every facet of the couture process. Having joined Chanel as an intern in 1987, Viard was quickly put in charge of embroidery, working directly with Lesage. From the year 2000, she was director of the house’s creation studio, overseeing the development and production of all the haute couture, ready-to-wear and accessories collections. “This is really her comfort zone,” Pavlovsky told WWD. “Of course there’s a certain amount of stress, because it’s her collection and not Karl’s, but she is ready. Psychologically, physically and intellectually, she is fully focused on her collection.” Viard, who has given no interviews since Lagerfeld died, provided an insight into her creative process with her filmed testimony, broadcast as part of the “Karl For

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Partying Chic With the Zimmermann Sisters

CAPRI — Che chic! No better Italian expression — which translates into “how chic” in English — can describe the vibe sisters Nicky and Simone Zimmermann injected into the two-day event the Australian company organized to fete the opening of its Capri store. The program kicked off on Thursday night with a dinner at Capri’s legendary and elegant Il Riccio restaurant, located on the cliffs by the Blu Grotto sea cave and ended on Friday afternoon with an extended lunch under a lemon pergola in the lush garden of the exclusive Villa Bismarck. Both the happenings not only surprised the taste buds with traditional specialties of Caprese cuisine, but also featured sophisticated flower and fruits table arrangements, and hand-painted plates. The Zimmermann sisters’ typical laid-back and friendly attitude took center stage during the events, which drew celebrities including Laura Dern and Katie Holmes. “I’m putting together my second film called ‘Rare Objects.’ I’m going to direct that and also act in it, so I’m very excited,” said Holmes, who will film the movie, expected to be released next year, in New York City. While Holmes revealed her ideal vacation is spending time with the family, Jessica Hart can’t wait for August to

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Fashion Avoids Tariffs for Now, But Is Still Mired in Uncertainty

Fashion can breathe a sigh of relief ⁠— for now. The U.S. and China over the weekend agreed to restart trade negotiations at the G-20 Summit in Osaka, Japan, with the former shelving plans to slap 25 percent tariffs on $300 billion worth of Chinese imports, including apparel and footwear. The news will no doubt be welcomed by the industry, many of whom have issued stark warnings over the past few weeks that levies would result in higher costs for consumers, job losses and store closures. “We welcome the progress made during this meeting and hope it will result in a constructive approach to working with China to deliver significant reforms rather than one that punishes American consumers and threatens U.S. jobs through tariffs,” said David French, senior vice president for government relations at the National Retail Federation. Its research found the proposed new round of tariffs would cost Americans $4.4 billion each year for apparel, $3.7 billion for toys, $2.5 billion for footwear and $1.6 billion for household appliances. “Pulling back from the brink of further tariff escalation is a good sign for retailers and their customers, and we look forward to continued progress in the talks with China so that further tariffs can

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Exhibition on Azzedine Alaïa’s Tati Collection Debuts in Paris

POP CULTURE: Long before high/low fashion collaborations were a thing, Azzedine Alaïa worked with the most popular of Paris retail institutions, Tati, building a collection based on its famous checked motif and creating a capsule for the Barbès landmark, a magnet for bargain hunters for decades. That collaboration — and Alaïa’s spring 1991 collection built around it — is the subject of the latest exhibition staged at the Azzedine Alaïa Association, opening to the public Monday. “Today, everyone talks about collaboration and co-branding, but Azzedine was the first to initiate a partnership between a mass-market retailer — and it really was mass-market. Tati at the time was quite rough, it was like a sociological study in clothing,” explained Olivier Saillard, director of the “Azzedine Alaïa, Another Way to Look at Fashion: The Tati Collection” exhibition, which runs through Jan. 5. “Azzedine, at the time when he went to Tunis, had this strong memory of people arriving from France with giant pink gingham Tati bags filled to bursting. The owner of Tati at the time was also a fellow Tunisian,” Saillard explained at the exhibition opening event on Sunday. As well as the check pieces in black, blue or red and white, which made up

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EXCLUSIVE: Felipe Oliveira Baptista Takes Over Creative Direction of Kenzo

PARIS — Felipe Oliveira Baptista has been named creative director of Kenzo, LVMH has confirmed. He is to join the brand on Monday and will unveil his first collections for men and women next February during Paris Men’s Fashion Week for fall 2020. Oliveira Baptista, who was creative director of Lacoste from 2010 to 2018, succeeds designers Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, who revealed they were leaving Kenzo in June after eight years at the house to focus on their U.S.-based Opening Ceremony store chain and fashion label. “What made us choose Felipe above other candidates is the fact that he has a global artistic approach,” Sylvie Colin, chief executive officer of Kenzo since 2017, told WWD. “He has a 360-degree creative vision and will oversee artistic direction globally, dealing both with collections and communication,” she continued. The executive stated it was too early to say if this would lead to a possible change of logo or retail identity, simply commenting that as Oliveira Baptista will oversee global image direction for the label, “it will impact the brand’s entire communication.” Known for his artfully constructed and experimental creations, Oliveira Baptista, who hails from Portugal but is based in Paris, created his namesake label in 2003 with his

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Claudia Cardinale on Dancing With Alain Delon, Meeting the Pope and Being Courted by Steve McQueen

PARIS — The day hadn’t started very well: Someone had tweeted that legendary Italian actress Claudia Cardinale, known for her roles in Luchino Visconti’s “The Leopard” and Sergio Leone’s “Once Upon a Time in the West,” had died. “But I’m very much alive!” said Cardinale, roaring with laughter. The anecdote didn’t put a damper on her jovial mood. The 81-year-old actress was in Paris to prepare for the auction of over 130 couture and ready-to-wear dresses from her personal wardrobe, which are to be exhibited at Sotheby’s Paris from July 2 to 4 and will be for sale until July 9. “It’s very moving to see them here all together,” said Cardinale. “They had been stuck in storage in my parents’ home in Rome for years and years. I didn’t remember them being so beautiful.” The collection spans the first 20 years of the actress’ career, starting with demure, light-colored dresses from the end of the Fifties to more flamboyant garments as she hit stardom in the Seventies, after appearing in Federico Fellini’s “8 1/2” and starring opposite David Niven in “The Pink Panther.” “It represents a form of emancipation, both on a personal level and a more global scale” said Cardinale’s daughter Claudia Squitieri,

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Charlotte Casiraghi Wears Giambattista Valli to Wed Dimitri Rassam

ROYAL WEDDING: Charlotte Casiraghi, daughter of Princess Caroline of Monaco, is officially married. Following a civil ceremony in Monaco on June 1, the Monégasque royal wed Dimitri Rassam in a chapel located in Saint-Rémy-de-Provence in the South of France on Saturday. She chose a custom-made Giambattista Valli haute couture dress to wear to the religious ceremony. The Italian label posted a picture of the ceremony on Instagram on Sunday, showing the long-sleeved chiffon dress with a sheer neckline that Charlotte of Monaco wore to wed Rassam, who is the son of French actress Carole Bouquet. View this post on Instagram Congratulations Charlotte Casiraghi and Dimitri Rassam on their wedding in Saint-Remy-de-Provence. The bride wore a custom Giambattista Valli Haute Couture gown. Very happy to be part of their dream! Ph. @felixdolmaillot A post shared by Giambattista Valli Official (@giambattistavalliparis) on Jun 30, 2019 at 9:56am PDT “Congratulations Charlotte Casiraghi and Dimitri Rassam on their wedding in Saint-Remy-de-Provence. The bride wore a custom Giambattista Valli Haute Couture gown. Very happy to be part of their dream,” read Valli’s Instagram post. The date of the wedding is symbolic: Princess Charlotte seemingly chose to pay homage to her mother’s first marriage to Philippe Junot, which

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New Book Showcases Karl Lagerfeld’s Political Sketches

SKETCHBOOK: A new book from German art publisher Steidl brings together the late Karl Lagerfeld’s “Karlicatures,” his political sketches published starting in 2012 in the monthly F.A.Z. magazine, a supplement of the Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung newspaper. The 160-page hardcover book with texts in German, called “Karlikaturen,” is available in Karl Lagerfeld’s monobrand stores, which number more than 100 worldwide, as well as on Karl.com, on the publisher’s web site and in bookstores, priced at $40.

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Céline Dion Bewitches Guests at Miu Miu Cruise Show

HORSING AROUND: Dressed in a pink ruffled bustier dress with matching eyeshadow, Céline Dion was the star attraction at the Miu Miu cruise show, held Saturday at the Hippodrome d’Auteuil race track in Paris’ 16th arrondissement. The singer was surrounded by a legion of fans, including Nicole Richie, who is in Paris for two weeks “with Heidi Klum, Carine [Roitfeld] and Naomi [Campbell]” shooting a new show for Amazon Prime, titled “Making the Cut.” “I heard you were wearing pink, so I’m wearing pink. We’re doing our act together now, we’re a duo,” said Richie before settling into her front row seat in the stands to take in a horse race that preceded the show. She confessed she was new to the whole betting game. “I have gambled before, but I’ve never won anything in my life. The concept of beginner’s luck never hit me, I literally have never won a penny, not from a slot machine, nothing,” she shrugged. Celine Dion  Stephane Feugere/WWD “I’m an actress, that’s a gamble enough,” said Gabrielle Union a few seats down. “This is just sick, and getting to see icons like Céline Dion, I’m dying,” sighed Union, who in terms of her projects has the live shows of

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Fox News Breaking News Alert

Fox News Breaking News Alert

White House press secretary roughed up in scuffle with NK security guards

06/30/19 1:58 AM
Saturday, 29 June 2019
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U.S., China Agree to Restart Trade Negotiations

The U.S. and China have agreed to restart trade negotiations and hold off from unleashing further tariffs on each other after an extended meeting at the G20 in Osaka, Japan. “We’re going to work with China on where we left off to see if we can make a deal,” President Donald Trump said at a press conference. He did not provide a timing structure, but added that he was not rushed. This was the first time that President Trump and China’s Xi Jinping met face-to-face since trade talks fell apart in May when the former alleged that the latter reneged on a number of commitments it had made. That resulted in the U.S. increasing tariffs on $200 billion worth of goods from 15 to 25 percent and China retaliating with its own levies. Trump then also threatened to add duties to all remaining exports from China, totaling $300 billion and dragging fashion into the fray, unless it acquiesced. The latter has now been put off indefinitely.

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Friday, 28 June 2019
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Fox News Breaking News Alert

Fox News Breaking News Alert

Trump says meeting with China's Xi 'went better than expected'

06/28/19 11:38 PM
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Hollywood Stylist Anita Patrickson’s Amanu Sandal Brand Sets Hotel Partnership

Hollywood stylist Anita Patrickson has aligned with Singita luxury lodges to bring her made-to-order Amanu sandals to resorts in South Africa. It’s the first move into the hospitality sector for the brand, and a full circle moment for Patrickson, who originally hails from Capetown. She parlayed her work as a fashion stylist for Julianne Hough, Portia de Rossi and others into a custom shoe business that launched last year in L.A., inspired both by traditional sandals made using tire rubber in Africa, and the tradition of resort sandal making on the island of Capri. Now she’s bringing the eco-conscious, high-touch experience  customers get in her West Hollywood flagship to guests at Singita. In June, Patrickson traveled to South Africa with one of the U.S. makers to train the staff at Singita Ebony Lodge and Lemombo Lodge to cobble the shoes, priced $160 to $275, from an array of leathers, with pony hair and feather trim, in under an hour. Amanu craftsperson  Courtesy “My parents were both born in Kenya, and I thought this was a cool way to be able to take this craft back and teach somebody a skillset—and a way to be able to go home more,” Patrickson laughed, adding of her brand

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Fast Retailing Signs Partnership with UN Women

TOKYO — Fast Retailing has entered into a partnership with UN Women, with the aim of championing women’s rights and empowerment in the global apparel industry. The agreement includes an investment from the Uniqlo parent company of $1.6 million over two years, in order to jointly implement a program for female workers in apparel factories across Asia, where most of the company’s products are made. This is the first formal alliance between UN Women and a clothing company based in Asia. “Fast Retailing is committed to ensure that all women who are main players in our business can fully demonstrate their abilities. This is essential for the sustainable growth of the entire supply chain, as well as to continue to offer products that meet customer expectations,” Tadashi Yanai, chairman, president and chief executive officer of Fast Retailing, said in a statement. “Through our joint project with UN Women, we aim to create an enabling environment for all women in our business and those in our company to play an active role in society.” The partnership will focus on three areas: a leadership training program, providing opportunities for female workers to develop new skills; raising awareness of the importance of gender equality, and

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The RealReal Scores $1.7 Billion IPO Valuation

The market has come up with its first price for The RealReal Inc.  The luxury reseller priced its initial public offering at $20 a share, putting its valuation at $1.65 billion. The price is higher than the $17 to $19 range the company projected in a regulatory filing earlier this month. The IPO raised $300 million.  The company starts trading Friday on the Nasdaq under the ticker symbol “REAL,” anchoring its place in an expanding market for personal luxury goods. In a filing this month with the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission, the company cited a 2018 report by the consulting firm Bain & Co. that said the market for personal luxury goods was a “record high” 260 billion euros, or roughly $294 billion.  Founded in 2011 by CEO Julie Wainwright, the luxury consignment shop has taken its place among designer goods resellers that include Vestiaire Collective and What Goes Around Comes Around. It resells apparel, shoes, handbags and jewelry, art prints and furniture. The RealReal has put its selling point this way — in a crowded marketplace of more affordable second-hand labels, it deploys experts to ensure quality and authenticity.   “The existing luxury resale market is outdated, fragmented, difficult to access and laden

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Media Carousel

The revolving door of the media industry never stops. Here, WWD rounds up some of the notable moves of late. First up is a scoop on Fortune magazine, settling into new ownership. It’s lured back Brian O’Keefe as deputy editor. O’Keefe previously held the role for 18 years but left in early 2018 to be editor in chief of IBM’s research vertical Institute for Business Value. Fortune made a few other hires as well. Jeremy Kahn is coming from Bloomberg News to cover technology in Fortune’s London bureau; Lee Clifford is a new senior editor of finance, returning to the outlet after leaving in 2010; David Z. Morris, a freelancer since 2013, is coming on full time as a writer on the tech team. Kristen Bellstrom was promoted to features editor and Matt Heimer to senior features editor.      Changes elsewhere: Stefano Tonchi is out at W magazine after almost 10 years as editor in chief, with his exit coming the same day that Condé Nast clinched W’s sale to Surface Magazine. The breakup turned ugly, as Tonchi sued Condé for breach of contract — understandable as Tonchi claims he’s owed more than $1 million in severance. Ken Lerer, a cofounder of Huffington

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Asked and Answered: How Will You Celebrate NYC Pride Weekend?

Bebe Rexha: “Me and my friends usually go out. I used to live in West Hollywood, but now I live in the Hollywood Hills. But we’ll go down to West Hollywood and party with all the drag queens. We do drag queen karaoke at Hamburger Mary’s. That’s going to be my thing this year.”  Cynthia Erivo: “I’m here [in New York] for Pride Weekend, so I think I’m just going to go with the flow. I’ll find something to do, that’s for sure. It’s New York, why not?” Jordan Roth: “I feel like we’ve been doing something for Pride every day this month, and actually, [mine and my husband Richie Jackson’s] whole lifetime.”  Richie Jackson: “For us, the way to celebrate Pride is to raise our two children and to send out flares of hope to young LGBTQ youth. Our message to them is, ‘There is a life waiting for you that is full of love and potential, creativity and exuberance.’ Do not listen to this White House. You are beautiful, you are worthy, we love you and we can’t wait to meet you.’” Jesse Tyler Ferguson: “I’m actually going to be working at Williamstown Theatre Festival up in Massachusetts so I’m not going

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Balmain, Biagiotti Group Reach Agreement Over Logo

IDENTITY ISSUES: At a time when logos are increasingly in the spotlight, Biagiotti Group Spa, Pierre Balmain SAS and Balmain SA said Friday they have “amicably solved any issue related to a possible interference between the new graphic design of the Balmain monogram and the ‘LB’ logo of the Biagiotti Group.” Following this agreement, Balmain will introduce a new version of its monogram starting from the spring 2020 collection. Presenting its pre-fall 2019 collection last December, Balmain unveiled its redesigned logo as a stripped-back monogram combining the letters P and B, the initials of house founder Pierre Balmain.The move was meant to hail a new era for the house, said at the time creative director Olivier Rousteing. Social media, however, and in particular Diet Prada, were quick to point out the resemblance with the storied Biagiotti logo, which refers to the initials of the founder, the late Laura Biagiotti. Known for her luxury cashmere pieces and feminine silhouettes, the first Laura Biagiotti collection debuted in 1972 at the Sala Bianca in Florence, together with the likes of Missoni Krizia, Walter Albini and Gianfranco Ferré. Biagiotti was the first Italian designer to present a fashion show in China, and among the first to show in Russia. The

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MOORE FROM L.A.: Democratic Presidential Debate Dressing: For Once, The Women Had the Advantage

Male politicians can skate through just about any sartorial situation by wearing the uniform of a suit and tie. And female politicians, because of their more individual ways of dressing and judgment based on sex appeal, are ripe to pick apart for everything from their barely-there cleavage (Hillary Clinton) to their Cheeky Monkey heels (Sarah Palin). But in the vast field of 20 candidates fighting for a glimmer of recognition on stage and TV screens during the Democratic presidential primary debates on Wednesday and Thursday nights in Miami, for once it wasn’t the men who had the advantage — it was the women. Almost as much as their policies and punchlines, what does one remember from the sea of similar suits during the debates that stretched over two nights? The unprecedented number of female candidates–and the fact that many of them looked refreshingly different. For once, women weren’t just one-offs or oddities, they stole the show. On Wednesday, it was Massachusetts Sen. Elizabeth Warren’s ultraviolet jacket that made the biggest impression. In Pantone’s color of the year, it blazed a trail (at least for me) all the way back to the Ralph Lauren gray flannel jacket with contrast purple lapels that Hillary Clinton

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Thursday, 27 June 2019
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LF Logistics Gets $300 Million Cash Infusion from Temasek

Singapore’s sovereign investment fund Temasek has bought a 21.7 percent stake worth $300 million in Li & Fung’s logistics business, LF Logistics. The investment values LF Logistics at approximately $1.4 billion. Proceeds from the investment will be used to fund “future capital expenditures, repay existing bank facilities and accelerate business growth initiatives at LF Logistics”, the Hong Kong company said, adding that its proposed spin-off of the logistics arm will be postponed until further notice. After completion, Li & Fung will remain a controlling shareholder of LF Logistics. While Li & Fung’s core supply chain solutions business has been challenged in recent years due to a weakening retail environment in key markets like the U.S., Li & Fung’s logistics business has reported robust “multiple-year double digit organic growth”, it said. Its expansion has been buoyed by the rise of China, the e-logistics boom, accelerated development in the ASEAN region and rapid expansion into new geographies including Japan, South Korea and India. “We expect the strong growth of LF Logistics to continue,” said Joseph Phi, group president, Li & Fung. “With operations in all of Asia’s fastest growing cities, we are well positioned to capitalize on rising middle class consumption and our early investment in

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Next-Gen Proof Your Business

Generation Z owes traditional retailers nothing, in their eyes. This haughty demographic would rather launch their own businesses — and many have — than settle for less-than-ideal product quality, merchandising, ethics, etc. To better understand what resonates with this generation, WWD interviewed investors and industry experts as well as entrepreneurs to define key traits of the next-gen entrepreneur while understanding how traditional fashion and beauty retailers and brands can essentially “next-gen proof” their business. Who is the next-gen entrepreneur? Hayley Barna, a cofounder of BirchBox and the first female partner at First Round Capital, compares mission-driven next-gen entrepreneurs to “heat-seeking missiles” in their forthright behavior that helps them accomplish their goals. “Successful entrepreneurs are constantly collecting data, listening to customers and adjusting course if necessary,” she said, citing an example of a recent investment she made in San Francisco-based start-up called The Lobby, founded by Abigail Holtz. “She [Holtz] balances a techie’s data-driven approach with a commitment to the vision,” Barna said. When asked of what constitutes a “disruptor” in fashion and beauty today, Barna believes, “Disruptors don’t come in one flavor, but the common thread is that they are able to cut through the clutter to deliver on a 10-times better experience for customers.” Next-gen

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Maya Hawke Is Done Resisting the Family Business

Maya Hawke was partially trying to save on Ubers, and mostly calm her nerves, so she was walking around Los Angeles — miles and miles of walking. It was Oscar week, 2018, the city was abuzz, and she had just left a “funny little house” for her final audition for the new season of “Stranger Things,” the Netflix phenomenon from the Duffer brothers. “Basically, a lot of things just fell into place,” Hawke says: She got the part, mid-meandering around the city, and though not entirely sure about what the part was, she knew it would change things for her. And it already has. For Hawke — the 20-year-old daughter of Uma Thurman and Ethan Hawke — it’s the beginning of her stand-alone moment in Hollywood, as she joins the Netflix series for its third season, out July 4. She’s back home in New York now after spending seven months shooting “Stranger Things” in Atlanta. It’s hard to picture her anywhere but New York. She’s high energy, bopping around singing along to Gwen Stefani while browsing racks of clothes and climbing on top pianos, and is confident in the way city kids are. She also, refreshingly, has no ego about the fact that

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Boots Unveils Beauty Concept Store in Covent Garden

LONDON — Boots has just lifted the curtain on its new concept beauty stand-alone store on Long Acre in Covent Garden here. The new location, in the former Marks & Spencer space across from the Covent Garden Underground station, has been refurbished to fit Boots’ latest mission to be enticing and fun. “We are really focused on bringing in all the brands in a glamorous way, and I think that this is a step forward for us. We’ve been changing the beauty halls in 26 of our stores already, and there has been a radical shift in the performance of our premium beauty sector. It gives us confidence that this is the way forward,” said Sebastian James, chief executive officer of the 170-year-old Boots, a division of Walgreens Boots Alliance. Spread over two floors and spanning 28,524 square feet, the new store is home to more than 300 brands across skin care, beauty, fragrance, hair care and wellness. Names include It Cosmetics, Becca, La Roche-Posay, Josh Wood Colour and Fenty Beauty. Instead of beauty counters, there are shelving units that are meant to create a more open plan. According to James, the shelves will also help create a “small, premium feel and a

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Procter & Gamble Debuts Hair-care Line for Black Women

Procter & Gamble is bringing its long-running My Black Is Beautiful platform to life with a product line. The My Black Is Beautiful brand is to launch in nearly all Sally Beauty doors in the U.S. — around 3,700 doors — with a collection of five products designed specifically for black women with very curly and coil-y hair textures. The brand is a result of a yearlong incubation project within P&G, with product ideas crowdsourced from social media. The product assortment is infused with a proprietary formula called Golden Milk, comprised of natural ingredients such as coconut milk, turmeric, ginger, honey and coconut oil. Products include the Hydrating Shampoo, $11.99; Fortifying Conditioner, $11.99; Tangle Slayer Conditioning Creams for type-three curls and type-four curls, $12.99 each, and Intense Recovery Treatment, $12.99.  This the first product line P&G has designed specifically for black women with very textured and curly hair types. Pantene Gold Series was launched in 2017, though its products focused more on hydration and nourishment, rather than curl treatments. The product line is an extension of the company’s My Black Is Beautiful initiative, which was started in 2006 by a group of black women within P&G, aiming to spark a broader dialogue around black

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Cult South Korean Handbag Brand Gu_de Adds Shoes

Cult South Korean handbag brand Gu_de is expanding its footprint — literally. The label will launch its first range of shoes for spring 2020, riffing on the sophisticated design motifs that have contributed to its success. Founded in 2016 by Seoul-based designer Ji Hye Koo and her business partner husband, Ethan H.K. Song, the label gained fast notice from homegrown retailers like Beaker and went on to amass a roster of international stockists including Net-a-porter, Selfridges and Moda Operandi. Prior to launching Gu_de, Koo primarily honed her skills as a footwear designer in the fashion departments of South Korean conglomerates like Samsung. “I love shoes and I wanted to design the kinds of shoes that I would wear,” she told WWD. Gu_de’s debut shoes.  Courtesy Gu_de’s structured bags, often constructed of crocodile-stamped leather, have become street style catnip — with styles mimicking tiny canteens, briefcases and doctor’s bags. They fall into the new cheap-and-chic category of high-design accessories offered at a lower cost. At $450 to $700, Gu_de’s bags fall well under luxury purses by big, European houses. The label has replicated this pricing structure with its shoes, placing its initial three styles in the $400 to $500 range. As is the case with its bags, all

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Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne Win CFDA + Lexus Fashion Initiative

As the winner of the top prize for this year’s CFDA + Lexus Fashion Initiative, Public School’s Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne are ready to accelerate a sustainability-friendly plan that was months in the making. While the program’s winner takes home a $100,000 grant, all of the participants considered their efforts to be an everybody-wins kind of situation. In advance of Thursday night’s wrap-up party at Intersect by Lexus in New York, all of the contenders discussed the upsides of being part of the program. A few addressed the potential to share and scale up their ideas with others. “Designed to inspire commitment to transformative leadership, sustainable innovation and positive change,” the initiative consisted of a nine-month virtual residency with an emphasis on sustainable innovation. In addition to the Public School duo, Abasi Rosborough’s Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough; Araks’ Araks Yeramyan; Jonathan Cohen’s Jonathan Cohen and Sarah Leff, and Tracy Reese were vying for the $100,000 grant. After Thursday’s presentations, Lexus and the CFDA upped the ante — deciding to award Reese with a $5,000 social impact award for her passion toward sustainability and social impact. The industry is the second biggest consumer of water, generating around 20 percent of the

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NYT’s Wirecutter Looks Beyond Product Recommendations for Expansion

A typical Wirecutter reader heads to the site only when they’re looking to buy something. Ben Frumin wants them to come around a lot more often. “The core of what Wirecutter does and will always do, thoughtful rigorous testing that is just leaps and bounds better than competitors, that won’t ever change,” said Frumin, who took over as editor in chief early this year. “But if Wirecutter is about solving problems, there’s an entire galaxy of problems we can solve.” Some new areas the New York Times-owned site is looking to get into are style and beauty, which Frumin sees as getting into aesthetically pleasing products in general, not simply shoes and lipstick. There will likely be those, too. To get into this area in particular, he’s hired Jason Chen away from The Strategist, New York Magazine’s recommendation vertical and Wirecutter’s most obvious rival. Frumin is enthusiastic about adding Chen as a deputy editor, not only because of his admiration of The Strategist, but because Chen is someone he says has “really exceptional taste.” “He can find beauty in the everyday, and the things that are compelling, and really understands what kind of aesthetic and form and beauty and style will bring joy to

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Amazon Counting on Pick-up With New Service

Amazon, which put fear in retailers’ hearts and hastened the demise of others by delivering to customers’ doors almost anything they desired, has been adopting more and more strategies from the official brick and mortar retailers’ handbook. The online giant hooked up with Kohl’s, initially to sell products there, and subsequently,  to facilitate its customers’  returns, whether the products were purchased at Kohl’s, or not. It even has taken a small stake in the department store chain. With retailers such as Walmart Inc. challenging Amazon’s core strength — logistics, and its free next-day shipping proposition for Prime Members — Amazon is fighting back. The Seattle-based ecommerce giant on Thursday said it is today launching Counter, a network of staffed pickup points that will allow consumers to pick up their packages in a store in a particular location in more than 100 Rite-Aid stores across the country. Amazon expects to roll out the service to more than 1,500 stores throughout the U.S. by the end of the year. The company said delivery to a counter location Is available for tens of millions of products sold on Amazon.com. and pickup can be used for items that are delivered same-day, two-day and standard shipping at no

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EXCLUSIVE: Marco Di Rado Named CEO of Jet Set

PARIS — Swiss luxury sportswear brand Jet Set has tapped Marco Di Rado to be its new chief executive officer. He succeeds Myriam Mele, who had been at the Zurich-based brand for six years. Founded in 1969 and now controlled by the Swiss Gaydoul Group, Jet Set broke ground in the luxury sportswear segment and was favored by the likes of Gianni Agnelli and Grace Kelly, peaking in popularity in the Eighties. Di Rado, a German-Italian consultant who cut his teeth at Ben Sherman, Hugo Boss and Acne Studios, joined the company in June. He will work in tandem with creative director Michael Michalsky, who was appointed in November. “Michael is giving the brand its identity back,” Di Rado said during a phone interview. “When he started last fall, he took his inspiration from what Jet Set was doing in the Eighties and Nineties, when we were a very directional brand,” he continued. “It’s important to me that he has the chance to establish his look and feel for the brand, and then I will do my part when it comes to strategy and distribution. We are aiming to be as desirable as we were in the Eighties.” Based in Berlin, Michalsky served as global creative

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Kim Kardashian’s Shapewear Line Is Shaping Up to Make a Big Splash

Kim Kardashian’s new shapewear hasn’t hit the market yet and it’s already stirring up controversy. The reality star and multimillionaire makeup mogul revealed her new shapewear brand Kimono on Tuesday. The launch date has not yet been set publicly, but within hours the Internet exploded with accusations of cultural appropriation since the line’s name plays off the traditional Japanese garment.  View this post on Instagram Kimono Solutionwear™. Coming Soon. #KimonoBody Photo: #VanessaBeecroft Choreography: #FatimaRobinson A post shared by KIMONO (@kimono) on Jun 25, 2019 at 5:55am PDT Still, Kimono’s Instagram following more than doubled overnight⁠ — from roughly 42,000 on Tuesday morning to 108,000 Wednesday afternoon. Clearly, some people are still excited about the arrival of the brand.  But while some consumers seem to have mixed feelings about Kardashian’s latest business venture, all the attention might be good news for the shapewear industry. The more shoppers are talking about something, the more likely they are to buy it. And a last name like Kardashian offers some serious equity in the market.  “Her many followers and marketing tactics will give her brand clear advantage,” said Ayako Homma, fashion and luxury consultant at market research firm Euromonitor International.  Spanx has pretty much established

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H&M Q2 Post-Tax Profit Dips 1.5% as Company Invests in Overhaul

PARIS — Hennes & Mauritz reported a 1.5 percent drop in second-quarter profit after tax, noting intensified investments in the company overhaul weighed on results.  “As customer satisfaction and sales increase, the group has intensified its transformation work even further, which had a dampening effect on earnings development,” the company said in a statement Thursday. Sales for the month of June have risen 12 percent at constant rates, according to the fast fashion retailer. The group said it continues to bulk up the proportion of full-price sales, and projected a 1.5 percentage point decrease in the cost of markdowns in relation to sales over the third quarter—which would be the fourth successive quarter marking a reduction in markdowns. Many operators in the lower-priced segment, including H&M last year, get caught up in a spiral of discounting, while Spanish rival, Inditex, the owner of Zara, has been focusing on improving margins by beefing up full-priced sales. Profit after tax came to 4.57 billion Swedish kronor, or $490 million. for the three months ended May 31.  H&M previously reported an 11 percent rise in sales over the second quarter, lifted by a currency boost, and said that it needs to continue working hard to revamp operations to

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Wednesday, 26 June 2019
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EXCLUSIVE: Events Specialist Obo Buys Ubi Bene

PARIS — Obo, the fashion and luxury events company founded by René Célestin, has acquired Ubi Bene, an agency that specializes in more mainstream, blockbuster events. The move comes as the rise of digital channels adds pressure on brands to come up with increasingly imaginative ways to stand out in a crowded landscape — which is at the heart of their business. The agencies struck up a relationship as joint organizers of the L’Oréal Paris fashion show on the Champs-Élysées in Paris in 2017. “When L’Oréal called us, they were convinced we wouldn’t get along,” laughed Célestin, speaking from a table in the modern kitchen area of the agency’s Paris headquarters.  “Agencies tend to be competitive and control freaks, but we worked very well together. We were surprised to see that we had fairly different businesses but, at the same time, share common ground,” he said.  Obo specializes in organizing and producing events and visual content for clients mostly from the luxury industry — in fashion, but also in entertainment and the arts. Fashion shows have come to hold a slightly smaller proportion of the business over the years, while the ever-growing Met Gala is a key event for the agency. Célestin founded the agency

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EXCLUSIVE: Roger Vivier Enlists Susan Sarandon, AnnaSophia Robb for Short Film

TAKE TWO: Gherardo Felloni is addressing the generation gap — and incidentally sending out the message that style has no age barrier — with a short film to present his fall 2019 collection for Roger Vivier. He tapped a Hollywood heavyweight, Susan Sarandon, as well as rising star AnnaSophia Robb, to star in a short film set to go live on the brand’s social channels today. It also stars Instagram sensation Tuna the Dog, who has 2 million followers — almost as many as Sarandon and Robb combined. Inspired by Italian director Antonio Pietrangeli’s cult 1965 movie “Lo la conoscevo bene” (“I Knew Her Well” in English), the film tells the story of an aspiring actress — played by Robb — who moves to the city to learn her trade and take lessons in style under shoe-obsessed drama teacher Sarandon. “The relationship between different generations [is] something I’ve always been interested in,” Felloni said. “I wanted to address the theme in this short film for Roger Vivier.” He continued, “I think it’s important to show who is the Roger Vivier woman. Susan Sarandon and AnnaSophia Robb perfectly exemplify my vision of Vivier women.…I chose them because I wanted to show a playful exchange between

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Dior Taps Brigitte Niedermair for Fall Campaign

FEMALE GAZE: As part of its ongoing commitment to promoting the work of female photographers, Dior has tapped Brigitte Niedermair to shoot its fall campaign. Known for her elegantly sparse images and use of unexpected contrasts, the artist took an almost abstract approach to the collection, photographing closeups of the back of a vinyl trenchcoat, a “Sisterhood Is Global” T-shirt stretched over a protest sign, or the Saddle belt cinching an hourglass dress. Maria Grazia Chiuri, artistic director of women’s wear at Dior, tapped house favorites Selena Forrest and Ruth Bell to model her creations, inspired by British Teddy Girls of the Fifties. The images, which will break on July 1, were art directed by Fabien Baron and styled by Elin Svahn. An image from the Dior campaign shot by Brigitte Niedermair.  Brigitte Niedermair. In 2017, Niedermair shot Chiuri’s first collection for Dior as part of the #TheWomenBehindTheLens project published in the fashion house’s magazine. Her work is the subject of a retrospective, “Brigitte Niedermair: Me and Fashion 1996-2018” at the Museum of Palazzo Mocenigo, as part of the Venice Biennale. Her fashion images have been featured in publications including CR Fashion Book, Harper’s Bazaar, Wallpaper, W and Vogue Italia.

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Peter Arnold: Leading Fashion to Its Future Talent

Peter Arnold’s path to the executive director role at the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund is rich with many diverse experiences. The executive skills learned in each role prepared Arnold to tackle greater challenges. As part of an ongoing series of executive interviews, Tim Boerkoel, founder of global executive search and consulting firm The Brownestone Group, talks with Arnold about leadership, his role at the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund and how curiosity and empathy converge to “get things done.” Tim Boerkoel: Peter, you’ve led teams in a variety of environments, ranging from designer brands to philanthropic organizations. Last November, you were named executive director of the YMA Fashion Scholarship Fund (FSF). What drew you to this opportunity? Peter Arnold: I’ve had a nonlinear career path, starting with my time as a lawyer, and then my tenure at the CFDA, followed by years in the industry as the president or chief executive officer of a number of apparel brands. As disparate as those experiences might have been, they do seem to make me uniquely suited for the role of executive director of the Fashion Scholarship Fund. (The search firm that contacted me called me a “unicorn” candidate). The organization has a pure and clear mission that

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Roksanda Designs Capsules for Marina Rinaldi

MILAN — “Everybody should have fun with fashion, no matter the size and age, there should be enjoyment and playfulness,” said Roksanda Ilinčić. The designer is spreading this message through a capsule collection for Marina Rinaldi, launching for fall 2019. This is the first of two capsules and follows the Italian brand’s association and collaborations with the likes of Fausto Puglisi, Ashley Graham, Joana Vasconcelos, Stella Jean, Tsumori Chisato, Amy Arbus and Claudia Losi. “I am a woman designing for women, empowering in a feminine and delicate way, and Marina Rinaldi is doing exactly the same,” said Ilinčić, who will bring her fashion aesthetics to the brand. “Our approach is to make daily wear easier — and fun.” “Our customers long to wear clothes that have a fashion approach,” explained Lynne Webber, managing director of Marina Rinaldi. “We have had a series of collaborators with different backgrounds, and Roksanda with her London background is also very stimulating. We want to put across the message that there are no barriers, no taboos and that everyone is free to express their personality and taste.” Webber admitted that these collaborations help add more visibility to the brand, triggering “a lot of curiosity, to a world considered

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Men’s Spring 2020 Trend: Hang Loose

Men’s wear designers amped up the volume for spring — from looser cuts on suits and trousers to flowing ponchos and baggy knitwear. Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons captured the style with her stellar collection, which played on the theme of Virginia Woolf’s “Orlando,” and also hit the genderless trend.

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Retailers Pin Hopes on Trump-Xi Meeting

Matters discussed at high-level meetings between world leaders wouldn’t normally turn retailers’ heads from the day-to-day running of their businesses. The G20 summit in Osaka, Japan, which takes place Friday and Saturday, is different. That’s because it will be the first time President Trump and China’s President Xi Jinping will sit down together since trade talks unexpectedly broke down in May and the U.S. threatened to impose additional 25 percent tariffs on all Chinese imports that have yet to be targeted — impacting apparel and footwear for the first time. The proposed levies are particularly worrisome for the industry as they come on top of average duties of roughly 13 percent already paid for apparel and footwear from China. A host of major American fashion companies have warned that the duties would likely result in higher prices for consumers, job losses and store closures across the country. Adding to their woes is the fact that Trump on Wednesday indicated that he may also consider unleashing tariffs on Vietnam, which is second to China when it comes to apparel imports and is where many companies have been moving operations. While no bystander can know what will happen at this weekend’s meeting — or what Trump will

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Common Objective Aims to Be the LinkedIn for Sustainable Fashion

LONDON — Tamsin Lejeune wants businesses to work together to find sustainable solutions that stick — and are right — for each retailer, so she founded Common Objective, a networking platform similar to LinkedIn for individuals in the retail industry. Launched last year, the platform was created off the back of Fashion Forum and in partnership with Kering and the block-chain company Provenance. To date it has grown to 15,000 members in 138 countries across supply chain, suppliers, manufacturers and retailers over the past year. “We wanted to make it possible to engage with the entire industry and create a platform that would be a fundamental tool, a place that all professionals go to do business because it helps them find suppliers, buyers and information,” Lejeune said. Just like LinkedIn, members will need to create a profile to sign up, specify their specific needs, what they are interested in and the site will start suggesting or matching similar companies that keep sustainability top of mind. “You need to reach some of our sustainability requirements and provide proof. However, even if you don’t meet them, you can still sign up as an individual or your ranking will be lower, which means you won’t be high

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Assopellettieri Appoints New President

MILAN — Assopellettieri, Italy’s organization of leather goods manufacturers, has appointed Franco Gabbrielli as its new president, during an assembly hosted on Wednesday by Confindustria Moda. Reflecting the organization’s recently changed statute, Gabbrielli will helm the association for the 2019 to 2022 period, succeeding Riccardo Braccialini who was appointed to the role in 2015. “It’s one of the most complicated mandates because the current situation is not particularly favorable, especially for small- and medium-size enterprises; it’s an interesting challenge,” Gabbrielli told WWD. According to consolidated data released today, the Italian leather goods sector closed 2018 with revenues of 7.6 billion euros, up 3.1 percent compared with 2017. The growth was driven mainly by exports, up 10 percent in the January-to-December period, reaching 8.2 billion euros from 7.4 billion euros a year earlier. In keeping with an ongoing trend, despite the double-digit growth in value, exports registered a decline in quantities, down 5.8 percent. Along with Switzerland and France, both important logistics hubs for Italy’s leather goods, especially from luxury brands, the U.S., Hong Kong, South Korea and Japan topped the list of importing countries. In particular, the U.S. showed a 6.5 percent increase in 2018 compared to the previous year, while South Korea recorded a

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