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Fox News Breaking News AlertWest Texas active shooter shot and killed at Odessa movie theater, police say
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Saturday, 31 August 2019
West Texas active shooter shot and killed at Odessa movie theater, police say
08/31/19 3:43 PM
Fox News Breaking News Alert
Fox News Breaking News AlertAt least 20 injured by shootings in Odessa and Midland, Texas; 2 suspects sought
08/31/19 2:39 PM
50 Cent Performs at Surf Lodge to Toast His New Champagne
The Surf Lodge in Montauk might be the last place you’d expect 50 Cent to show up. But on Friday night, that’s where he was — and for a special occasion: the launch of his new Champagne, Le Chemin du Roi. The hotel-slash-restaurant-slash-beach club held an intimate dinner in his honor on a tucked-away sandbar. A small boat filled with ice held bottles on bottles of sparkling rosé and wine. Guests sat at a long, wooden table and took photos with pieces of art by longtime Surf Lodge bouncer Jonny Lennon that had been mounted nearby. Where was 50? 50 Cent and DJ Cassidy Madison McGaw/BFA.com After dinner wrapped, a red Tesla rolled into the gravel parking lot. There was 50 Cent, with a large entourage. He posed with a huge bottle of Champagne, and Surf Lodge owner Jayma Cordoso, who spent the night alternating between handing out wristbands to selected VIPs and checking to make sure everyone was having a good time. 50 Cent and DJ Cassidy Madison McGaw/BFA.com 50 Cent headed to the stage, where DJ Cassidy introduced him by saying “50, should we take this to the next level?” Suddenly, his 2007 hit “I Get Money” blasted from the speakers and the packed houseFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Varun Dhawan and Sara Ali Khan are all set to groove to the remake of the iconic track, ‘Husn Hai Suhana’ for Coolie No. 1?
Alia Bhatt becomes the face of Mohey Fashions, posts pictures looking like a true-blue Indian bride!
Despite box office non-performance here’s why the Shah Rukh Khan, Anushka Sharma, Katrina Kaif starrer Zero is breaking records on TV
Miu Miu’s Latest Women’s Tales Film to Focus on Brigitte Lacombe
BRIGITTE ON CAMERA: Miu Miu will present its 18th short film as part of the Women’s Tales series in Venice on Sept. 1 during the city’s International Film Festival. Dubbed “Brigitte,” the latest installment of the series focuses on photographer and longtime Miu Miu and Prada collaborator Brigitte Lacombe, offering insight into her creative process at work. Set in a hydraulic factory in London, the short film is directed by Scottish filmmaker Lynne Ramsay, whose most recent feature “You Were Never Really Here” starring Joaquin Phoenix won the Best Screenplay and Best Actor awards at the Cannes Film Festival in 2017. In the short film, which is shot in a deep monochrome mood, Lacombe discusses her life and ideas with Ramsay, while people close to the photographer make an appearance, including her sister Marian. Approached by Ramsay with the idea of a documentary, Lacombe said she “absolutely wanted to be a part of it. And I always saw this as a collaboration.…I knew I wanted at the end to turn the camera on Lynne.” “I hate having my photo taken. Brigitte [Lacombe] was the first person who captured me,” echoed Ramsay, who originally trained as a stills photographer. “She cast a magic spell. I wondered:Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Friday, 30 August 2019
Levi Strauss Exhibition Coming to San Francisco Museum in 2020
Storied American jeans maker Levi’s will be the subject of an exhibition opening next year in San Francisco. “Levi Strauss: A History of American Style,” on view Feb. 13 to Aug. 9, 2020 at The Contemporary Jewish Museum, will be the largest public display of Levi Strauss & Co.’s archival materials ever assembled. Featuring more than 150 items (including vintage apparel and advertising materials, as well as ephemera related to the life of Levi Strauss the man), the exhibition will showcase the story of the Bavarian Jewish dry goods merchant in 19th-century San Francisco, the birth of his iconic blue jeans and its influence on American style and identity, according to press materials. The museum’s curators worked with the brand to mine pieces from the Levi Strauss & Co. archives, located at the company’s headquarters in San Francisco. In 1873, near the end of the Gold Rush, Levi Strauss obtained a U.S. patent with tailor Jacob Davis for the process of putting metal rivets in men’s work pants to increase their durability. Strauss’ civic and philanthropic contributions were fundamental to San Francisco’s municipal development, the exhibition will show, and the trajectory of the brand has reflected the changing American consciousness, from its initialFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Fox News Breaking News AlertHurricane Dorian strengthens to 'extremely dangerous' Category 4 storm
08/30/19 5:52 PM
What to Watch: The Rise of Creative Food Styling
PARIS — More so than the giant chandelier hung up on the Avenue des Champs-Élysées or the symphonic orchestra serenading guests with Nineties hits, the most talked-about part of the Galeries Lafayette Champs-Élysées opening party in March was a 4-meter-long mortadella. The Italian sausage, which had been specially flown in from Bologna and, weighing 1.5 tons, had to be maneuvered into the store using a crane, was one of the 20 installations created by artist Laila Gohar, alongside hand-shaped butter sculptures, shrimp towers and a gigantic raspberry tart. A far cry from the sit-down dinners or Champagne buffets that usually accompany brand launches and openings, Gohar’s creations were an experience in themselves: Guests randomly plucked vegetables from luscious pyramids or smeared their own bread with a cut-off butter “finger.” “In settings that can be a little bit charged — most fashion events, design or art events — I enjoy using food as an instant ice breaker,” said the food artist, who has been working in the field for the past seven years and counts buzzy fashion brands Simone Rocha and Ganni amongst her clients. “Often you see people walk into an event and at the start are a little bit on edge, scanning theFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: The Beauty M&A Slowdown
Beauty M&A is no longer booming. Beauty companies, private equity firms and venture capitalists have spent billions in the past few years buying up beauty brands, but now experts say a beauty M&A slowdown is upon us. It’s not a full stop. Several deals — including the sale of Drunk Elephant — are likely to come before the end of the year, sources said. But assets of scale are few and far between, and it will likely take two to three more years to see which companies come out on top of the current generation of indie brands. That means fewer billion-dollar deals and a continued uptick in smaller indie investments. The beauty deal slowdown is due, in part, to the crazy M&A boom. Some of the big buyers during that period simply don’t need to make more acquisitions right now, sources noted, especially as price tags for “good” brands stretch into the billions. “Where we are in M&A today, there’s a cautionary tale between the past and present,” said Andrew Shore, managing director at Moelis. When the makeup category was strong, purchase prices for brands went way up, Shore noted. “You found that every year, lower quality assets were sold at higher prices,Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Thursday, 29 August 2019
Dinesh Vijan reunites with Kriti Sanon and Pankaj Tripathi in his next project Mimi based on Marathi film Mala Aai Vhaaychya!
Pagalpanti: Sunny Deol and Sridevi’s song from Chaalbaaz to be recreated for John Abraham and Ileana D’Cruz
Olivia Palermo Launches E-commerce Platform, Hints at Future Label
Olivia Palermo has her sights set on the future of fashion. The entrepreneur has spent the past decade studying the ins and outs of the industry. Once a member of Diane von Furstenberg’s public relations department, Palermo has blossomed from street style star to fashion authority, transcending the typical restraints of reality television to ultimately earn the respect of some of fashion’s icons. A week before his death, Karl Lagerfeld revealed that he had chosen Palermo to co-design and style a collection for his namesake label. The collaboration officially released in June and is one of the first to be sold on Palermo’s new e-commerce and editorial platform. The online boutique will bow on Sept. 3 with select products from a total of 25 brands. The platform is a culmination of Palermo’s style expertise and designer connections. To date, she has created and collaborated on 10 fashion collections — including ones with Banana Republic, Nordstrom and Aquazzura — and has driven a total of $19 million in sales. As she intimated to WWD, she is also contemplating a fashion label of her own. Olivia Palermo Daniel Dorsa/WWD “My brother [Grant Palermo] and I teamed up a little before 2017 to think about the future of theFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Can Beauty Save the British High Street?
LONDON — Beauty is helping British high-street retailers stay out of the red. As consumer spending on beauty products increases, ailing retailers like Debenhams and Boots are putting the category at the forefront of their restructuring strategy, while companies who have never been in the beauty game before, from supermarket chain Sainsbury’s to fast-fashion retailer Primark, are looking to tap into the opportunity. “Beauty is such an accessible commodity to the consumer, so it stands to reason that high-street retailers known for pharmacy, food and fast fashion are getting into the game,” said Millie Kendall, chief executive officer of the British Beauty Council. Companies are betting big on beauty, especially for the likes of Debenhams and Boots, which have both been struggling with sales. In the fourth quarter of fiscal 2018, Boots’ Retail Pharmacy international division saw sales decrease by 2.7 percent, while Debenhams filed for administration earlier this year. However, both believe that beauty can provide the makeover they desperately need. According to Sebastian James, senior vice president and managing director of Boots U.K. and Republic of Ireland, “there has been a radical shift in the performance of our premium beauty sector. It gives us confidence that this is the way forward. Richard Cristofoli,Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Italian Instagram Beauty Brands Gain Traction
MILAN — Every brand wants to be Glossier, but that’s no easy task, especially in a country like Italy. The Bel Paese is historically rooted in beauty — artistic, architectural and environmental — and is home to leading color cosmetic suppliers, which manufacture more than 60 percent of the makeup products distributed by international beauty brands in Europe and over half of the makeup distributed worldwide, according to Cosmetica Italia’s data. Yet this heritage and know-how has rarely resulted in local blockbuster labels, even less in powerhouses or conglomerates that could compete with L’Oréal and the Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. Backed by a strong supply chain culminating in a few, individual cases — think Kiko Milano — the Italian beauty industry is made of small- to medium-sized brands making good products but lacking the expertise and boldness to create distinctive brand awareness. But with the booming appeal of the niche category, customers’ ambition in scouting unique brands to boast of to their peers and with social media platforms making communication strategies accessible and less expensive compared to traditional channels, entrepreneurial moves are starting to prosper in Italy. Founded in December, Espressoh is one of the Instagram beauty labels that have been popping up recently.Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Rock n’ Roll Hatter Nick Fouquet’s Ambitions Won’t Be Capped
L.A. hatmaker-to-the-stars Nick Fouquet has planted a flag on Abbot Kinney. The designer, whose handcrafted creations with details like bullet holes, burns, beads and dried blooms have been worn by Lady Gaga, Madonna, Tom Brady, Pharrell Williams and many more, has opened a 1,800-square-foot retail space and attached a 2,000-square-foot production studio in the boho Venice neighborhood. He hasn’t set up shop on the traffic-choked stretch where Everlane and Birkenstock have recently opened, however (“I avoid that like the plague,” he said of “upper Abbot Kinney”). Instead, he is pioneering a corner south of Venice Boulevard, next door to Stahl and Band furniture, whose minimalist pieces he’s picked up for hanging-out options in the shop. “We have a woodworker, a welder and a sail maker nearby. This area is a little more industrial…to me, this is going to be the next cool part of Abbot Kinney,” he said. The store is as L.A. cool as it gets — warm, airy and fragrant, with the scent of sage from Fouquet’s own “Ocean Nomad” candle in the air and Rolling Stones tunes playing in the background (the designer made hats for Keith Richards for the “No Filter” tour). In six years, Fouquet has created a burgeoningFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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For Fashion Labels, Restoration Projects Mean More Than Securing Show Venues
When French officials unveiled details of an extensive renovation project for the Grand Palais in Paris last year, they said the effort was intended to draw a wider and more diverse public to the towering glass and steel edifice. “The new Grand Palais must embody France of the 21st century,” said Françoise Nyssen, the country’s culture minister at the time. The minister was flanked by architects who presented plans to improve traffic flows between the sprawling sections of the complex, connecting exhibit halls with more public spaces to shore up its status as a major events venue and tourist destination — also reflecting the government’s inclusive bent. Accessible, with something for every audience. And that would include luxury fashion fans. Alongside the local and national politicians supporting the half-a-billion-euro refurbishment is also one of the world’s most established luxury labels — with Chanel throwing 25 million euros into the pot. The brand is known for staging monumental fashion shows in the space — from waterfalls to sandy beaches, and even a rocket — but its participation, as with sponsorship projects led by other brands, is about more than simply securing a top-notch fashion show setting. “This allows us to write the history of ChanelFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Influence China With Caution and Precision
Fashion houses have been courting Chinese celebrities and influencers to represent them in the region for some time. Picking the right person can make a great impact on the balance sheet, but recent events also demonstrate the damage they can cause. Brands need to learn and respect China’s cultural and political sense and sensitivity. Tapestry and Capri Holdings learned that the hard way. Their shares plummeted after Liu Wen and Yang Mi distanced themselves from Coach and Versace, respectively, for mislabeling Hong Kong, Macau and the disputed region of Taiwan as separate countries on their T-shirts. Yang is the most influential celebrity in China, in terms of fashion influence, according to Exane BNP Paribas. She was the face of Micheal Kors in China from 2017 and was appointed the first China ambassador for Versace on June 24. Capri Holdings was hoping she could boost Versace’s presence in China as she did for Michael Kors. Coach is supposed to open its Tmall store for the third time in September, but now with Liu gone, its parent Tapestry may have to plan everything from scratch. Liu Wen in a Coach campaign. Courtesy On top of understanding Beijing’s stance on geopolitical disputes, brands should also refresh their ideas aboutFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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DTC Brands Step-up Brick-and-Mortar Presence to Give Shoppers ‘Tangible’ Experience
Direct-to-consumer companies are increasingly eyeing physical stores to give loyal customers a more “tangible” experience with the brand while also wooing potential consumers with something new and fresh. Valerie Pettine, vice president of brokerage services at Metro Commercial, discusses what’s driving DTC to open stores and what brands need to consider in opening up physical venues. WWD: Why should DTC digital brands consider having a brick-and-mortar presence? What are the benefits? Valerie Pettine Courtesy image. Valerie Pettine: There are many compelling reasons why DTC brands are opening brick-and-mortar stores. The biggest reason why we are seeing the growing trend is that brick-and-mortar stores provide brand and product awareness that is leading to a noticeable increase in overall sales. For companies such as Away and Casper, they see a surge in online sales in markets where they open a tangible location. Additionally, it helps companies provide a more satisfying customer experience by giving them more avenues for where they can buy the product and allowing them to touch and feel the product, therefore gaining more confidence and trust. Having a brick-and-mortar presence also gives companies a better understanding of their customers; it will show them where their loyalty stands in comparison to other competitors, what their customersFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Millennial Female Founders Are Modernizing Vaginal Products
Feminine care, sexual wellness, self-love, self-care — call it what you will, but a category for products designed specifically for vaginas is continuing to grow, and looking ahead to 2020, is expected to continue to permeate deeper into mainstream beauty. From organic tampons and boho-chic supplements for vaginal health to fashion vibrators and CBD lubricants, there is no shortage of cheekily designed brands formulated with better-for-your-vagina ingredients. At the Indie Beauty Expo in New York earlier this month, for instance, several of these brands were on display, including Saalt menstrual cups, Dame Products silicone vibrators in various colorways, and CBD lubricants and “intimate oils” from Quim, a brand described as a “self-care line for humans with vaginas and humans without vaginas who love vaginas.” The number of sexual wellness and women’s health-oriented brands on display at Indie Beauty Expo has tripled year-over-year from 2018, said cofounder Jillian Wright, noting that retailers attending the show have also shown increased interest. Kandice Hansen, beauty buyer at Revolve, noted that Dame’s Fin vibrator quickly became the top-selling item on the site’s beauty and wellness vertical after it launched with the e-tailer in 2018. Even mainstream retailers have begun to modernize their vagina-centric assortments. Target has broughtFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Old Watches, New Tech Investments
As the clocks tick for traditional retailers, resale’s trajectory penetrates further. The pre-owned luxury watch market has yet to tap the same technology, logistics and efficiency at scale that powers the businesses of handbag and clothing resellers. Until now. Luxury timepiece reseller WatchBox is using technology as well as leveraging content, which may be a market differentiator (some of the site’s videos garner in excess of 40,000 views). The market size for luxury timepieces in the U.S. is estimated to be $580.6 million in 2018, up from $126.7 million in 2013, according to market researcher Euromonitor International. And the Chinese market is even larger. As previously reported in WWD, players operating and newly entering the pre-owned luxury timepiece sector include Atlanta-based Crown & Caliber and Richemont-owned Watchfinder.com, which was acquired last year. WatchBox, a Philadelphia-based company launched in 2017, is one that shines like new, built on the foundation of a 100-year-old family business (previously Govberg Jewelers) polishing its operations with the help of CMIA Capital Partners, who pitched more than $100 million for improvements last year. Since then, technology advancements, with a focus on its consumer-facing app, content and pricing technology allow the company to set its sights on global markets. The WatchBox HQ. CourtesyFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Sustainability Quotient Grows for Cosmetics Packaging
PARIS — Cosmetics packaging manufacturers will continue whittling down the amount of plastics they use throughout 2019, as brands, customers and legislation push for a new, more ecological normal. A single-use plastics directive was adopted at the European Union level by the European Parliament and Council in June, for instance. The directive “promotes circular approaches that give priority to sustainable and nontoxic reusable products and reuse systems rather than to single-use products, aiming first and foremost to reduce the quantity of waste generated.” Member states have until July 3, 2021, to comply with most of the directive’s previsions. “With this new directive, brands and consumers will have to change their habits, and on our side right now, we are studying new material alternatives to plastic and refillable options, as well as different ways to keep your packaging for more than one use,” said Denis Maurin, executive vice president of sales and innovation at HCT Group. The company, for instance, is working on refillable concepts with a primary component out of highly durable materials, such as metal, which could become a collectible item. “Refillable packaging has always been around, but never really sold very well,” he said. “Brands need to plan in advance and start workingFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Bally Unveils Flagship in Milan
MILAN — The new Bally flagship in Milan is hard to miss, located on the corner of two of Milan’s main streets — luxury haven Via Montenapoleone and the busy, high-end Via Manzoni, across from the Armani Hotel and Emporio Armani megastore. The three-level, 6,480-square-foot store, called Bally Haus, opened to the public on Tuesday and will be officially unveiled in October. It is an indication of the importance of the Italian market for the brand and it emphasizes its Swiss heritage, while nodding to its Italian and Milanese influences. The new Bally flagship. courtesy image Designed by Casper Mueller Kneer Architects, the banner’s blueprint replaces a previous one by David Chipperfield and reflects the label’s shift from aspirational to entry luxury. “The unveiling of Bally’s flagship in Milan is a celebration of our brand identity,” said Nicolas Girotto, the company’s chief executive officer. “In opening the doors to this store, we want to create a destination for cultural engagement, where customers can experience Bally’s complete lifestyle offering.” In addition to its women’s and men’s products, the unit will offer exclusive Bally Haus capsules and lifestyle merchandise, including stationery, tote bags and games, and also stage cultural events. As reported in May, Girotto was promoted to theFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: 8 Mass Beauty Launches for Fall
The mass market, beauty’s problem child for sales growth, continued to struggle through August, particularly in channels that data services such as Nielsen and IRI track (i.e. drug and grocery). The makeup and nail categories were down 2 percent, though skin care was up 3 percent in the 52 weeks ending Aug. 10, according to Nielsen. Despite how the numbers look on paper, they aren’t all that meets the eye — mass brands are now placing emphasis on a wide range of channels to drive sales, including everything from retailer e-commerce sites to Amazon, off-price stores, dollar stores and Walmart. Fall launches in the mass market follow this pattern. Below, a selection of new brand and product launches. Essie Expressie L’Oréal-owned nail brand Essie has a new franchise aimed at younger consumers called Expressie. The 40-shade collection, priced at $9 each — all new colors for the brand — features a quick-drying formula and a slim bottle and brush designed to perfect the DIY-manicure experience. Expressie, out in December on Essie.com, is the brand’s first consumer-only launch — it typically launches products in both the professional and consumer channels. Earth to Skin Walmart in August is rolling out a new private label skin-care brandFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: So, Media Brands Have New Owners — Now What?
A lot of media brands have new owners, and with them will inevitably come changes since everyone has their own plans to revive and make profitable their investments. Meredith Corp., having acquired and dissolved Time Inc., shook off magazines Sports Illustrated, Fortune and Time, which didn’t fit in with its other more prosaic, and more profitable, titles. Condé Nast, still looking to cut costs and make big, if belated, moves into digital and video, sold magazines W, Golf Digest and Brides. Univision came to terms with the fact that its acquisition of former Gawker digital brands like Deadspin and Jezebel, and separately The Onion, was a mistake, given its decades as a Spanish-language TV broadcaster. Even Verizon Media started to winnow its digital web portfolio, which it expanded in 2017 through the acquisition of Yahoo, effectively throwing its hands up with Tumblr and letting it go reportedly for around $2 million, when in 2013 it was valued at $1 billion. But what is to become of these brands, some respected and with history, others merely popular online, as they settle into new ownership? A list of media brands sold off and bought since last fall. Brides is one magazine that’s said goodbye to printFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Wednesday, 28 August 2019
What to Watch: A Look Ahead
Revisited and reinvented, the return to more classic and elegant dressing took center stage for fall with a new tailored aesthetic emerging to augment the streetwear looks that have dominated the past few years. Black leather also made its presence known in everything from blazers, shirts, outerwear and even full-on suits, giving this vintage-style piece a modern spin. Meanwhile, leopard prints were spotted on coats, vests and even trousers, making this fall bold and fun.Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Men’s Wear Online Sales Have Grip, Customers’ Habits Shift
What men want is the holy grail online retailers are trying to figure out in order to better cater to their male audience, which is evolving fast — and growing even faster. According to market search firm Euromonitor International, global sales of men’s fashion, including apparel and footwear both online and off-line, are poised to generate revenues this year of $452.47 billion versus $440.24 billion in 2018, with sales in 2020 expected to climb to an estimated $473.86 billion. Munich-based retailer Mytheresa is the latest to dive into the fray by kicking off a men’s section in January, while Moda Operandi entered the market last year. Mr Porter — launched in 2011 — introduced its own label, Mr P, in 2017 and Matchesfashion.com has been ramping up exclusive men’s wear drops and capsules with international luxury labels. Customers’ rapidly changing purchasing habits and craving for fresh product are pushing online fashion destinations to constantly adapt in a bid to stay relevant. “The men’s wear consumer is constantly evolving, he is far more sophisticated and braver in his style and online purchases than he used to be,” said Fiona Firth, buying director at Mr Porter. “They are less risk averse and certainly quicker to purchase items.Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Cactus Plant Flea Market and Who Decides War Taking Streetwear Forward
Now is as good a time as ever to know the names Cactus Plant Flea Market and Everard Best. The streetwear brand and the New York City-based designer have been separately building solid followings and are seen transcending the streetwear world and crossing into mainstream fashion at a time when designers and retailers may be experiencing streetwear fatigue. First, the two are far from new, and second, they hit several marks expected to propel them forward. Cactus Plant Flea Market is a mysterious streetwear brand founded by Cynthia Lu with an origin that dates back to 2015. Lu, who worked closely with Pharrell Williams at Billionaire Boys Club and at the artist’s multimedia creative collective I Am Other, produces graphic T-shirts, hoodies, and accessories that are favored by the Grammy Award-winning producer, along with Travis Scott, Tyler the Creator, and Kanye West. The brand is carried at Dover Street Market in New York City, and this year launched collaborations with Stussy, Anti Social Social Club, with Kid Cudi for Coachella and took part in Nordstrom’s Union & Company pop-up. Nike also collaborated with Cactus Plant Flea Market on Air Vapormax sneakers for women for Air Max Day 2019, and a Nike Blazer, dubbed the “Sponge,”Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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With $25 Million in Play, Greater Transparency Is Called for in Choosing Apparel Production Projects
NEW YORK — The decades-long debate about how to modernize the Garment District appeared to be moving forward to more unified ideas last week, but now a few individuals involved with the process are questioning the objectivity of it and recommending a third party get involved to ensure fairness. The Garment District’s rezoning was approved by the New York City Council in December, and last week 12 members of the Garment District Alliance’s special program committee met to review 22 proposals geared toward rejuvenating local apparel manufacturing. The GDA has as much as $25 million to fund programs that support manufacturing and fashion production in the area over the next 10 years. The group’s recent meeting culled the candidates to four parties, which would be advised to collaborate to avoid any overlap. No formal action was taken, though the formation of a subcommittee was agreed upon, according to a few participants, including GDA president Barbara Blair. A date for a future meeting had not been set at that time. A few participants, who asked not to be identified, questioned whether the GDA should be overseeing the funding of apparel manufacturing initiatives after the group has welcomed so many nonfashion companies and businessesFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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FIRST LOOK: Janhvi Kapoor transforms into combat pilot Gunjan Saxena in Kargil Girl; the film to release on March 13, 2020
EXCLUSIVE: Former Charlotte Russe CEO Jenny Ming Joins Poshmark Board
Retail veteran Jenny Ming first downloaded the Poshmark app last spring. The former chief executive officer and president of Charlotte Russe and founding brand president of Old Navy had been in contact with Manish Chandra, founder and ceo of Poshmark, and wanted to see for herself what the platform was all about. “You can’t be in retail and not know what’s going on,” Ming told WWD. After receiving positive feedback from her daughter and even helping a friend sell some dresses on the site, Ming decided to set up her own account. “I am certainly going to be a buyer and a seller on Poshmark,” she said. “Because I have a lot of shoes that I need to upload and sell on Poshmark. So, anyone in size 7 shoes will get a great assortment.” But that’s not the only way she will be engaging with the resale site. Ming is the latest addition to Poshmark’s board. Ming, who’s resume includes a number of traditional retailers, like Gap Inc., Barneys New York and a current spot on the board of Levi Strauss & Co., said it was the California-based start-up’s potential — and ability to adapt to changing consumer preferences — that attracted her to the company. “PoshmarkFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Henning, a Plus-Size Tailored Collection, Will Be Introduced Online Sept. 3
Lauren Chan, a former plus-size model with Ford Models and a fashion features editor at Glamour, is making the leap into fashion design. She will launch an online plus-size collection called Henning on Sept. 3 on the brand’s web site, henningNYC.com. Chan has worked on the business for over a year, having started her research in spring 2018. She did the designing herself and conducted focus groups in the beginning to see what people would like to buy. For the fall launch, she is offering 10 styles in sizes 12 to 24. Fabrics come from the U.S., and everything is made in New York. “It’s all very men’s wear inspired, which is a personal preference of mine,” said Chan, who herself is now a size 14, having been up to a size 20 in her life. While she has no formal design training, Chan designed the line for Glamour x Lane Bryant and did 10 collections. “That was my first foray into product,” she said. The Canadian-born Chan was signed to Ford Models’ plus-size division right after she graduated from college. She also did freelance writing and several years later, landed at Glamour. She spent three years there as fashion features editor, and leftFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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First Look: Hugo Boss Capsule Collection by Leading Industrial Designer Konstantin Grcic
Hugo Boss has collaborated with Konstantin Grcic, one of Germany’s most influential industrial designers, on a limited capsule collection for fall 2019. Grcic’s award-winning work in seating and lighting is featured in the permanent collections of the world’s leading museums, including MoMA in New York and the Centre Georges Pompidou in Paris; in 2010, he was named designer of the year at Design Miami. Over his almost three-decades-long career, Grcic is perhaps best known for his focus on utility and simplicity — high fashion seems rather a long way from his usual remit. But not at all, Grcic told WWD as he showed off his Boss capsule collection in his airy Berlin studio, a converted factory floor with large windows and long white desks. “Beauty has a function, too,” he explained. “And if things are only practical, and not appealing, then you have a very different relationship to those objects. “I don’t want to stretch the metaphor too far but chairs come close to something that we almost wear,” he added. Grcic’s chairs have won design prizes and several feature in museum collections. “So it’s not a completely strange world to me.” This isn’t his first tie-up with a fashion brand either: In theFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Vogue Japan to Mark 20th Anniversary With Milan Fashion Week Party
MARKING A MILESTONE: Vogue Japan is turning 20 and will mark the anniversary with no less than a Kawaii-themed party during the upcoming Milan Fashion Week. Capping off the first day of shows, on Sept. 18, the Japanese edition of the glossy title will throw a bash hosted by the magazine’s editor in chief Mitsuko Watanabe and its Italian creative director at large Anna Dello Russo. Dubbed #Tokyoglam, the party will celebrate all things related to modern Japanese culture. “When we marked Vogue Japan’s 15th anniversary, we celebrated the country’s traditional history. This time I wanted to offer a glimpse on its modern, pop culture,” Dello Russo told WWD. To this end, Milan’s Bulgari hotel will be transformed to resemble Tokyo’s Kawaii Monster Cafe, a wacky restaurant located in the city’s Harajuku neighborhood and replete with garish decor including a giant merry-go-round made of desserts and unicorns. Dello Russo said performers from the Tokyo cafe will fly to Milan for the occasion. “Twenty years is an important goal achieved thanks to values that deeply connect us, such as boldness, creativity and a rebellious vision,” said Jean-Christophe Babin, Bulgari’s chief executive officer. Vogue Japan August issue cover fronted by Kim Kardashian West lensed by Luigi & IangoFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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The Impact of Nontraditional Retail Footprints, Formats and Assortments
With back-to-school sales doing better online than in stores (as Amazon leads the way), traffic and sales in the physical retail landscape have remained lackluster this summer. There have been winners, most notably Target Corp. and Walmart, but it’s been a challenging year-to-date period. In its monthly report, RetailNext found month-to-month sales were “relatively flat,” with year-over-year sales declining just 0.3 percent — which analysts took as good news since flat sales are better than a steep decline. Last week’s chain store sales did show a slight jump as the Retail Economist-Goldman Sachs Weekly Chain Store Sales Index rose 0.9 percent week-to-week, while sales gained 1.7 percent year-over-year. But the gain, noted Michael P. Niemira, chief economist of the Retail Economist LLC, was driven solely by warehouse clubs and dollar stores. These retail segments tout frugality and cater to pennywise shoppers. Dollar stores, in particular, are finding the right mix in a tough climate, which includes using demographic data to pick locations as well as rethinking merchandise categories. Dollar stores also key into the “smaller is better” trend where footprints rarely exceed 10,000 square feet — and this approach continues to gain traction across retail. In AlixPartners’ most recent retail blog post, “Can RetailersFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Lafayette 148 Settles Into New Madison Avenue Home
NEW YORK — “Twenty-three years it took us to get here,” said Deirdre Quinn, chief executive officer and cofounder of Lafayette 148, surveying her new Madison Avenue flagship that opens today. The spacious 4,400-square-foot, bi-level store at 956 Madison Avenue is Lafayette 148’s third location in Manhattan and 24th store in the fleet. Called the Townhouse, the store is the cornerstone of the brand’s drive to ramp up its New York City presence — and is next door to Carolina Herrera’s newly revamped flagship. “It’s always been a dream of mine to open on Madison Avenue,” Quinn said. “And the time is right. We’ve been downtown in SoHo for 23 years and the fact is, New York City is our single-largest market in the U.S., largely driven by Upper East Side residents.” Founded in 1996, Lafayette 148 moved its headquarters last summer to a sprawling 90,000-square-foot space in the Brooklyn Navy Yard. The company retained 10,000 square feet on the eighth floor of 148 Lafayette Street in SoHo for a concept store and pop-up showroom for major market weeks. It also has a pop-up store on Broome Street. The company has been active in the brick-and-mortar space, and looks to open two to threeFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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EXCLUSIVE: Coach to Show on The High Line Park
Coach’s creative director Stuart Vevers is sticking close to home for his spring 2020 runway show: The designer has decided to show his latest collection on the Spur and Coach Passage, the newest sections of the High Line park, the brand has exclusively revealed to WWD. Coach and its parent, Tapestry Inc., in 2016 moved their global headquarters to 10 Hudson Yards — situated at the foot of the High Line. “I’m excited to present our spring collection on the High Line, a place that inspires me,” said Vevers, who showed his first official runway show for the brand on the elevated former railroad line in 2015. “I used to walk to the studio every day on the High Line. I love the industrial railroad history that has been transformed into the green heart of downtown New York. To me, it’s a powerful symbol of New York’s ever-evolving history, and I’m proud to celebrate what makes it special and continue our long-standing support of the park,” he said. The Coach Passage, named in recognition of the Coach Foundation’s various gifts to the High Line’s capital campaign, crosses through the brand’s global headquarters and features cathedral-like 60-foot-tall ceilings. As visitors leave the space, theyFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: More Tailored Aesthetic Hitting Men’s Stores for Fall
Fall is coming, and with it, men will be leaving their shorts and flip-flops in the back of the closet — and this year reaching for a blazer. Although streetwear and ath-leisurewear have been all the rage in the men’s market for the past few years, the pendulum has begun to swing back in the other direction. The first hint came during the fall runway shows in Europe last January when there was an undeniable shift toward a more dressed-up aesthetic. Those looks are just now hitting the retail floors, raising the spirits of merchants who have historically built their businesses on the back of men’s suits and sport coats. Although their expectations are high, stores also realize they can’t just hang a sea of navy, black and gray suits interspersed with the occasional patterned sport coat on their floors any more and expect them to sell. Streetwear and activewear have had an indelible impact on the industry and men are not looking for their father’s — or even their grandfather’s — suits. Guys have gotten used to be being comfortable and they’re searching for features that will let them move while keeping them cool and dry. Eric Jennings, the former men’s fashionFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Bridget Foley’s Diary Carolina Herrera: Retail Wonderland on Madison
“It’s not about being greige.” So notes Wes Gordon of the Carolina Herrera aesthetic — a simple prescription that doesn’t begin and end with the clothes. After honing his fashion vision for a few seasons, the creative director, who succeeded the house founder in February of last year, felt ready to take on the renovation of the brand’s New York flagship. Gordon determined to translate his baseline belief in fashion that makes you happy into an ebullient, celebratory retail space. “Everything I say about the clothes is that Herrera is an anti-normcore brand. It’s color and beauty. We are not a minimalist house. This space should reflect that, too,” he said. The store at 954 Madison Avenue reopens today after an eight-month renovation, its first in almost 20 years of operation. Gordon spoke during a walk-through of the site earlier this month. Though the prevailing architectural motif then discernible was construction site, and the dominant decorative effects, drop cloths and dust, the vision had started to emerge and was on full, spirited view during a second visit early Wednesday morning: a three-story jewel box, its 5,000 square feet of selling space filled not with monotone, round diamonds but an array of glorious,Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Solving the Sizing Dilemma
One size certainly does not fit all. In fact, it often fits no one. Sizing is a perpetual problem in the apparel industry with a lack of consistency rampant among the different brands. Much of the data used by apparel firms to create their lines is based on measurements that are decades old and no longer applicable to today’s body types. BodyBlock AI, which uses 3-D body and consumer data to provide insight on more-accurate sizing, estimates that 80 percent of sizes do not actually fit the general population. Kirk Keel believes the number is even higher than that. The cofounder and co-chief executive officer of Stantt said his research found the number is closer to 85 percent. “We built a company off of that,” he said. Seven years ago, he and Matt Hornbuckle founded the made-to-measure men’s shirt brand, which uses proprietary technology to offer “a hybrid option between off-the-rack and full custom that offers the benefits of each.” Stantt offers 99 sizes of shirts and uses an algorithm that requires only three measurements to create a custom fit. Once the fit is determined, the fabric, collar, cuff and button options are chosen and the shirt is manufactured and delivered within seven days at anFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Interior Designer Andre Mellone on Carolina Herrera’s Makeover
“We had this sort of long dating period,” says interior designer Andre Mellone from the living room of his stylish two-story Manhattan apartment, overlooking the High Line through giant casement windows. One might be mistaken for thinking he was talking about romantic life. But Mellone, perched on a gray flannel sofa next to a stack of his grandfather’s old National Geographic magazines, is actually referring to how he got involved in his latest and most high-profile retail gig to date — redesigning Carolina Hererra’s flagship on Madison Avenue in Manhattan. Starting out designing the interiors of private abodes (Misha Nonoo and Jason Wu are among his clients), the Brazilian native, an architect by training, has over the past few years become more prolific in the retail world thanks in part to his friend, designer Thom Browne, who gave him his first store to design for his namesake brand. “He one day called me out of the blue and he said, ‘Do you want to do a store for me’ and it was a very small place in [South] Korea. He didn’t start by giving me a huge project because he knew I was starting out,” explains Mellone, adding that Browne liked his abilityFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Prada to Celebrate Pedro Almodóvar in Venice
ALL ABOUT PEDRO: The marriage between fashion and cinema is one of the lucky few that has stood the test of time and events like the Venice International Film Festival serve as annual reminders of this successful bond. Among the many initiatives scheduled during the movie festival, which kicked off on Wednesday: Prada will be hosting a dinner and party to celebrate Spanish filmmaker Pedro Almodóvar, who will be awarded with a Honorary Golden Lion prize this edition. Staged in partnership with Warner Bros. Italia, the soirée will take place on Thursday at the Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Misericordia venue, a 14th–century frescoed building that originally housed a confraternity. In addition to Miuccia Prada and Almodóvar, guests in attendance will include the filmmaker’s longtime muse Rossy de Palma; American actors Joaquin Phoenix and Anthony Mackie; Italian actresses Monica Bellucci and Valeria Golino; film director Lucrecia Martel, and American avant-garde artist and musician Laurie Anderson, among others. The event will further strengthen the ongoing partnership between Prada and Almodóvar. Earlier this year, the movie director was the fifth guest of the Fondazione Prada’s “Soggettiva” series, an initiative that invites personalities from the arts to share with the public the films that have markedFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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The Carolina Herrera Flagship: More Than Window-Dressing
After an eight-month renovation, the Carolina Herrera flagship on Manhattan’s Madison Avenue reopens today in all its ebullient glory. While its fanciful design projects high spirits and a carefree attitude, its purpose couldn’t be more serious: to clearly telegraph the ethos of the brand, after undergoing significant evolution under president Emilie Rubinfeld and creative director Wes Gordon, spurred by Gordon’s designs that have brought a new youthful attitude to the house while remaining faithful to the house founder’s steadfast belief in beautiful. The shift is very much a leadership focus at Puig, which owns the Herrera business. “Following the momentum that the brand is enjoying with the arrival of Wes, and the excellent performance of his collections, it is time to mark a new milestone with the renovation and reopening of our flagship in Manhattan that features the new brand image,” said José Manuel Albesa, president, Puig brands, markets and operations. “Every detail has been thoughtfully curated and considered to provide a new world-class brand experience synonymous with Carolina Herrera.” In an exchange with WWD, Rubinfeld elaborated on the importance of making a bold retail statement early in Gordon’s tenure. “The flagship is the physical representation of our codes and theFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Tuesday, 27 August 2019
The ‘Art and Science’ Behind Customer Personalization
Meyar Sheik, formerly the cofounder of Certona and now president and chief commerce officer at Kibo Commerce, sees the shopper’s journey as a never-ending process that offers rich opportunities for brands and retailers. And Sheik, who is a member of the Shop.org board as well as a member of the NRF’s digital council, said the fashion industry “still has plenty to do in the personalization space.” Here, Sheik discusses trends in fashion and retail consumer personalization trends and strategies, as well as how companies can do a better job of engaging customers. WWD: How has personalization technology changed over the past 10 years? Meyar Sheik: I think the most significant milestone we’ve seen from working with different retailers across various verticals as well as brands and business-to-business manufacturers is how the multichannel and omnichannel aspects of personalization have evolved throughout the years. Personalization has finally reached the maturity point where it’s all about the shopper. And today’s shopper no longer tolerates siloed channels or touch points. They want a consistent experience across the board that provides real-time personalization. Personalization really originated in the e-commerce space with Amazon and its recommendations that were pioneered using behavioral data and transactional data specific to the shopper. ItFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Tomorrow Puts a New Spin on Investment, Looking at Heads and Hearts
LONDON — Fashion is a hot-blooded business, and Stefano Martinetto takes that to heart when he looks at potential acquisitions for Tomorrow London Ltd., a full-service business and creative platform for designer labels, which he co-owns and runs with Giancarlo Simiri. Despite the discipline, detail and precision that go into making collections, fashion is also a messy affair, and the road to success is cluttered with bad investments, botched strategies, soured partnerships, mismanaged expectations and often a fundamental lack of understanding about how the business actually works. That’s one reason why Martinetto talks about the importance of undertaking “emotional” due diligence before investing, and why his team prefers to wait — and court — designers and brands before taking stakes in their brands. He’s also hoping that Tomorrow’s unconventional strategy will be a winner, and that the company will be able to offer small, independent designer businesses an alternative to private equity investment, big luxury groups and wealthy — but often inexperienced — individuals in an ever more difficult climate for fashion. “I try to put myself in the designers’ shoes and understand that they need money, but they also need a high-quality organization. Often they can’t afford it because it costs millions ofFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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The Challenge of Multibrand Boutiques in China
SHANGHAI — By all accounts, Chinese consumers are growing more sophisticated by the day, eager to discover niche brands and in unique settings. One wouldn’t necessarily be able to tell that from the many multibrand stores that have struggled to take off in the country, however. This summer, the storied Italian retailer 10 Corso Como became the latest high-profile victim when it unceremoniously closed the doors to its Shanghai store, thereby ending its China footprint, a partnership with fashion conglomerate Trendy International Group. There were a few things off with Corso Como’s foray into China, which began in 2013. Its Shanghai store, while located on Nanjing Road, was cut off from the main shopping strip where a string of major malls like Plaza 66 and Kerry Centre sit. “While in one sense it has a good location because it’s opposite Jing’an Temple, there isn’t anything around there,” said Jennifer Mak, a designer and brand consultant, describing the five-floor stand-alone building that was located at a busy intersection. “By crossing the road to reach there, you’re making a trip that’s very intentional. It’s not like after you shop at Plaza 66, you’re like, ‘Let’s pop into 10 Corso Como,'” she said. But an awkward locationFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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EXCLUSIVE: LVMH to Establish Karl Lagerfeld Fashion Prize
His legendary fashion career was ignited by an award. In his twilight years, he acted as a judge for the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, leaving most contenders starstruck. And now he will be immortalized with a fashion prize in his name. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton confirmed exclusively to WWD that its Special Prize will henceforth be named the Karl Lagerfeld Prize. The first one is to be presented during the sixth edition of the contest on Sept. 4 at the Fondation Louis Vuitton. “Karl Lagerfeld, creative director of the house of Fendi since 1965, was involved in the prize since its launch,” said Delphine Arnault, the force behind the high-profile design competition. “He was fully committed to it since Day One, transporting us with his enthusiasm and his energy, sharing with everyone, whether other jury members or candidates, his culture and his passion for fashion. We shall always cherish those precious moments.” A key talent scout at the French luxury conglomerate and the number-two executive at its flagship Louis Vuitton brand, Arnault added that the Karl Lagerfeld Prize “naturally perpetuates the closeness we developed over the years and is a tribute to the man’s unique creative genius, to his ability toFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Secondhand May Have Place With Department Stores, Specialty Retailers
Sales of secondhand apparel are trending upward, but by how much depends on whom you ask. Poshmark sees apparel resale by 2022 reaching $41 billion, from about $20 billion today, a 49 percent uptick, while ThredUp predicts $51 billion in five years, from $24 billion. With resale’s growth coming at the expense of traditional retailers, it’s no surprise that department stores can’t embrace it fast enough. Millennial and Gen Z consumers have made no secret of their dissatisfaction with uninspired assortments and uninspiring environments of department stores. The disconnect is partly responsible for department stores’ collective existential identity crisis. Now, apparel resale and rental are seen by some as a possible savior. ThredUp launched its Resale-as-a-Service platform to power apparel resale for Macy’s Inc. and J.C. Penney Co. Inc. through a pilot revealed last week, when ThredUp announced it had closed on $175 million in funding. Neil Saunders, managing director of GlobalData, said, “Admittedly, the tie-up will be very good for ThredUp, as it increases brand exposure. For Macy’s and J.C. Penney, it will only be marginally helpful. The partnerships won’t solve the problems in the rest of their businesses, nor will it transform their financials. It’s great that they’re thinking outside of the box, but both [retailers]Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Phased Openings at American Dream
Thrill seekers ready to ride the roller coasters at American Dream this fall will have to wait until next year to do their luxury shopping there. The 3 million-square-foot entertainment and shopping complex in East Rutherford, N.J., has set Oct. 25 for its opening. But as it stands now, luxury retailers won’t be opening until next spring. “The Hermès boutique at American Dream will open in March 2020. That has actually always been our plan,” Peter Malachi, senior vice president of communications, Hermès U.S., told WWD. “We understood that the luxury wing was scheduled for that date. Bob and I have made a number of visits to the site to see the progress and the work,” Malachi said, referring to Bob Chavez, president and chief executive officer of Hermès U.S. “It’s incredibly impressive and the design is spectacular. We very excited about our unique site and façade within that luxury wing.” Barneys New York has revealed plans to open in American Dream, though its efforts at the New Jersey complex could be derailed due to the retailer’s bankruptcy filing earlier this month. Barneys’ efforts might be better spent supporting stores already operating. “We are still planned to open in American Dream in springFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Barneys in Bankruptcy: What’s Ahead
For bankrupt Barneys New York, the wish list is big. Barneys needs a buyer that will cough up money, creates a new Barneys free of debt and understands the limits of the narrow luxury niche Barneys targets. Barneys also needs vendors to show support by shipping to the store despite its precarious state, and landlords willing to reset lease terms. Owner Richard Perry has tried to sell the business before and had no takers, but there could be some interest in buying Barneys in a bankruptcy fire sale. And through the court-approved debtor-in-possession financing, vendors are guaranteed payment on orders delivered post-filing. Yet there are still risks of getting stuck with merchandise or caught in a swirl of markdowns in the event of a liquidation. Barneys could be forced into liquidation if the bankruptcy court sees bills aren’t being paid. That’s of particular concern to small and midsized manufacturers who don’t have their own stores or outlets to absorb merchandise Barneys can’t take. Orders were taken in June for pre-spring, production is in motion, and vendors likely will get paid on those deliveries generally arriving in November. The next round of order taking seems riskier. It occurs in September and October for springFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Cutting Out the Middleman, Customer Data Will Run Fashion Retail of the Future
Once upon a time a handful of individuals made decisions about what the general public would wear in six months’ time. But in today’s bold, new, online world, when data is often described as being more valuable than oil, the fashion industry is coming closer than ever to its customers — and mostly through the collection, then use, of personal information. All About You For Tarek Müller, cofounder of About You, Europe’s fastest-growing online apparel retailer, personalization is key. About You, founded in 2014 as the result of e-commerce experiments at German online giant Otto Group, is a unicorn start-up, valued at more than $1 billion. In the 2017-18 financial year, it saw revenues of 283 million euros, but this year is on track to grow that by around 60 percent, predicting revenues of between 450 million euros and 480 million euros. Although there are around 250,000 products from more than 1,200 brands available on the site, the company is trying to avoid the “fashion warehouse” business model, a description it uses for larger companies like Amazon and Zalando. About You’s success is likely due to its algorithmic emulation of social media giants. They call it “social e-commerce” and invite brands, influencers, bloggersFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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PR Exec Sophie Roche Conti Launches Communications Firm
Sophie Roche Conti, formerly partner and vice president in the New York office of French publicity firm Catherine Miran, has struck out on her own. This month the Franco-American launches Conti Communications, a publicity and strategy agency that she hopes will “find the sweet spot between what you expect of an in-house PR director and the dynamic energy and ideas you get from working with a consultancy agency.” While based in New York, the firm will look to tackle event, VIP, editorial and copywriting services as well as brand positioning and digital creative strategy on a global scale. Conti and Miran launched their joint partnership four years ago, spearheading a PR roster that balanced big business clients like Roxy and Zadig & Voltaire with youth culture-leaning lines like Elizabeth Hilfiger’s Foo and Foo streetwear brand and the body-positive denim line Miaou. The firm also introduced buzzy French brands including Amelie Pichard, Carel and Yasmine Eslami to the U.S. market. Conti aims for her new agency to “work with brands that share a similar customer instead of focusing on one specific category of product.” Most of her clients’ businesses include an angle of sustainability. She says the firm’s assortment of beauty, fashion, lifestyle, entertainment and artFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Calvin Klein Unveils First Influencer Campaign for Eternity for Men
What does masculinity look like today? Calvin Klein will attempt to answer that question when the company launches its first influencer campaign for the Eternity for Men fragrance. The brand uses phrases such as “rugged yet refined” and “masculine yet sensual” to describe the scent. The campaign is intended to recognize athletes, actors, same-sex couples and overall hardworking family men. “For us, the way we look at masculinity has definitely evolved through time,” said Joanne Bletz, senior vice president of Calvin Klein at Coty Luxury. “We felt this very holistic value to each of these men, their commitment to the partners and children and success. Authenticity is really key for Calvin Klein as a brand.” The campaign features four-time wrestling world champion and Olympic gold medalist Jordan Burroughs; Thiago Alcântara of the Bayern Munich football club; actor Rick Gonzalez, who stars on the CW TV show “Arrow,” and American actor and singer couple Matt Dallas and Blue Hamilton in their natural elements at home and at work. Each man was tapped by Calvin Klein for excellence in their respective careers and commitment to their families. Burroughs is seen training in the gym, but also play-wrestling with his children. Gonzalez exits his trailer to prepareFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Walmart Closing In on Amazon With E-commerce Advances
There are some core competencies that Amazon and Walmart Inc. will never master: Grocery comes to mind for the former, and entertainment content, the latter. But the $514 billion Walmart’s gains in e-commerce are starting to shorten the lead of Amazon, whose gross merchandise volume in 2018 was $277 billion. During the recent back-to-school period, which is a barometer for the upcoming holiday season, e-commerce accounted for about 58 percent of the record 5 percent uptick in total sales year-over-year. The biggest driver of the expansion was Amazon — no surprise there. What was unexpected was that Walmart’s portion of increase was almost as big as Amazon’s. “Walmart is playing catchup in a very strong way,” said Craig R. Johnson, president of Customer Growth Partners. “Amazon is miles behind Walmart in terms of physical stores, but not catching up to Walmart. Now Walmart is catching up on the online side.” When Walmart a few years ago decided to go all-in on e-commerce, “it was starting from a pretty small base,” Johnson said. “Now it’s working off a much bigger base, which is why it’s catching up to Amazon in a big way.” Walmart and other retailers have responded to Prime Day since Amazon launchedFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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What to Watch: Fighting Cybercrime Will Be More of a Priority
Retail security breaches, ransomware, social media impersonators — cybercrime is evident in many areas of the fashion industry. In its annual Mobile Security Index report, Verizon cited ransomware as the leading cybersecurity threat. While 85 percent of companies said they need to take mobile security seriously, half of the companies polled acknowledged that saving money and “cutting corners” trumped investments to protect mobile data and boost security. Researchers at Verizon said the total number of cyber compromises rose to 33 percent in 2018 from 27 percent in the prior year. For retailers specifically, 31 percent of retail organizations “suffered a mobile device compromise last year.” And 54 percent of the incidents were considered major while 27 percent “had lasting repercussions,” Verizon noted in the report. As of last week, 22 municipal governments in Texas had been stricken with ransomware — malicious software that blocks access to a computer system or data, usually by encrypting it, until the victim pays a fee to the attacker. Meanwhile, two school systems on Long Island in New York also were victims of ransomware attacks this week. Meanwhile, retailers ranging from Target Inc. to Home Depot have seen their systems hacked in recent years, while last month Capital One bank revealedFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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EXCLUSIVE: Telfar to Show Film in NYC, Runway in Paris
Telfar is heading to Paris. The New York City-based designer will present his next runway show on Sept. 23 to open Paris Fashion Week. He won’t leave New York City empty-handed though — the brand will present a film on Sept. 6 featuring a collective of directors and writers including Petra Collins, Ryan Trecartin, Steve Lacy, Clayton Vomero, Ian Isiah, TORSO, Diamond Stingley, Juliana Huxtable, Jeremy O. Harris, Kelsey Lu, and others. The nonlinear format film was shot in New York, Los Angeles, Ohio, and Paris among others. “We think we are doing this out of necessity,” said designer Telfar Clemens. “I think it’s good for fashion as a whole to rethink how it works. This is really just an experiment happening live.” Telfar was established in 2005, although the designer had been producing nongendered clothing since 2002. In 2017, he collaborated with White Castle on a capsule collection after hosting his runway show afterparty at the fast food chain’s Times Square location in 2015. He won the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in the same year and was awarded $400,000, and in 2019 was a CFDA Award nominee for Accessory Designer of the Year. The Liberian-American designer had elaborate shows during NYFW in spring 2019 — that one was heldFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Bridget Foley’s Diary: Zac Posen — To Every Spring There Is a Season
The model’s body language is gloriously seductive as she works a major-glamour gown that draws imprecise lines to both Swan-generation elegance and Eighties glitz. Her carriage has the gazelle-like grace of forebears who once populated the cabines of Halston and Yves Saint Laurent. But her hair, worked into intricate Fulani braids, and her complexion, unique among the known stars of her profession, radiate 21st–century distinction. The model has just descended a stairway that leads to the photo studio’s main set, a vast white drum of a space with a huge sliding door now open, ready for her entrance. But the would-be haute aura of the moment never materializes thanks to Booby, the dog someone has brought to work for the day. He follows the model down the stairs, and before you can say “breathtaking,” she bends down to give him a “good dog” treat, and then goes full-on prone on the floor, leaning and contorting in serpentine correspondence with the happy pooch. The scene speaks volumes about the girl, Winnie Harlow; the dress, a sculpted column in flocked glitter tulle over russet duchesse, and, perhaps most significantly, the designer, the unflappable Zac Posen. If his stomach churns at the sight of WinnieFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Monday, 26 August 2019
EXCLUSIVE: Was Salman Khan’s high remuneration of 100 crores, the reason why Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Inshallah did not happen?
How Drag Queens Broke Through the Beauty Barrier
“To win this competition, you’re gonna need to be more enterprising than Donald Trump, to give bigger than Oprah and to be hotter than Tyra [Banks] wearing a fat suit in July.” Such was the criteria, as stated by RuPaul a decade ago, for the first contestants of “RuPaul’s Drag Race,” a competition-style show in which select drag queens compete for the title of America’s Next Drag Superstar. Since its premiere on the Logo network in February 2009, the show has become a cultural touchpoint within the drag community — and beyond. Its latest season, season 11, averaged 926,000 viewers an episode, according to data from Nielsen. In October, it will launch a U.K. version. “Drag Race” has given rise to and put the spotlight on the world’s top drag queens, displaying their close relationship to the beauty world in the process. Its global growth runs parallel to an Internet phenomenon that is increasingly taking cues from and celebrating LGBTQ culture. This summer alone, the “And I Oop” meme from former “Drag Race” contestant Jasmine Masters went viral on social media, and Eugene Lee Yang’s “I’m Gay” video became one of the top-viewed coming out videos of all time on YouTube, raisingFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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