Buyers Embrace the New Paris Uniform of Shorts and Blazers

Rounding out a whirlwind show season, blustery Paris captivated buyers with a fresh breed of French chic that came in a uniform of shorts and blazers, and a broad shift toward dressier and sexier styles. “It all comes together in Paris,” said Linda Fargo, senior vice president, women’s fashion director and store presentation at Bergdorf Goodman. Topping the list of buyer favorites — by a long shot — was the Valentino lineup, which prompted an outpouring of praise for Pierpaolo Piccioli’s modern and feminine proposition. Retailers also singled out Alexander McQueen, Saint Laurent, Dior and Loewe, and were energized by Dries Van Noten’s surprise collaboration with Christian Lacroix. Balenciaga led the pack for show venues. While monochrome looks were a big hit this season, simplifying silhouettes, when applied to a show venue — the brand’s was blanketed in a stark blue — it had an altogether different, slightly disconcerting effect. But the Eiffel Tower for Saint Laurent continued to enchant, with added excitement from the natural elements — gusts of wind and sheets of rain. On the wane? Logos and streetwear, clothing laden with embellishments. “Heavy-handed, overly embroidered crystal things — that doesn’t feel like it’s happening right now,” said Elyse Walker and Philip Manghisi, respectively

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