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Wednesday, 26 February 2020
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Digital Innovation Supports the Fashion Industry During Coronavirus Outbreak

MILAN — With the coronavirus crisis hitting two of fashion’s biggest players — China and Italy — the multifaceted potential of the digital world is emerging as a key tool to save the sector from a temporary blackout. With the health crisis spreading across China in January, the Italian Fashion Chamber promptly reacted by creating the “China, we are with you initiative,” which enabled Chinese buyers, journalists and consumers to digitally attend Milan Fashion Week. The week’s runway shows and presentations, including behind-the-scenes content and interviews, were live-streamed on both the chamber’s web site and Chinese online platforms Tencent and Weibo. According to Italian Fashion Chamber president Carlo Capasa, 16 million people watched the shows live on Tencent and an additional 9 million users accessed the content via Weibo. “This season, about 1,000 people between buyers, journalists and influencers did not attend the fashion week in Milan, but through this initiative we succeeded in reaching a much, much bigger audience interested in fashion,” said Capasa, putting the focus on the fact that the digital fashion week might have an important value not only during health and political crises, which don’t allow people to travel, but also when stability reigns. “I think that there is

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Rhone Launching Women’s Capsule Collection

After five years selling sophisticated activewear to men, Rhone is taking the plunge into women’s. But the move should not be viewed as a full-on entry into the women’s arena, its founders stressed. Rather, it’s intended to honor the contributions of the women who work for the company and is being launched during Women’s History Month. The capsule collection will be offered for sale only on the company’s web site beginning March 2. It will include tanks, hoodies, leggings and joggers created from Italian fabrics treated with the company’s GoldFusion technology, a proprietary process that infuses gold particles into the highest-performing fabrics and is soft, fast-drying, long-lasting and odor neutral. In addition, the leggings are made from sustainable fabrics created from reclaimed and recycled fishing nets removed from the world’s oceans. The collection will retail for $64 to $138. Nate Checketts, cofounder, said, “Let me be clear, we are not launching women’s wear. This is an extremely tight, limited capsule collection that really celebrates the women in our lives who have helped propel this brand forward.” Even so, he said he expects the collection to sell out quickly. Checketts didn’t completely rule out eventually expanding Rhone into women’s wear, but said that if and when

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Fulfillment Doesn’t Have to Be a Painful, Costly Endeavor for Brands

As brands make investments to accelerate their direct-to-consumer efforts, some are finding the fulfillment process to be costly and logistically challenging. But there are technologies and “tactical approaches” that brands and retailers can take to improve efficiencies and drive sales. Stephan Schambach, founder and chief executive officer of NewStore, feels the pain of companies struggling with fulfillment. He said today’s shoppers “have been trained to expect goods to be purchased easily and shipped quickly, and at a reasonable cost. It’s the Amazon effect.” To make it work, Schambach said brands and retailers should be shipping goods directly from stores. To succeed, though, they “must have accurate inventory and modern technology that makes shipping from store easy.” “Leveraging stores as fulfillment centers is not a new concept,” Schambach told WWD. “It’s been a topic of discussion for more than a decade, however, it’s still a major challenge for retailers. Traditional point of sale [POS] systems are clunky and difficult to use, and historically haven’t been connected into order management systems [OMS]. This makes it extremely time-consuming for stores to be leveraged for fulfillment. Legacy systems simply were not designed for omnichannel.” Fulfilling online orders from stores makes clear business sense, according to experts, because it

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Peter Pilotto to Suspend Label, Assess Options for Business

LONDON — Peter Pilotto, the London-based label that was riding high just 16 months ago after designing Princess Eugenie’s wedding dress, is putting the business on hold, WWD has learned. According to an official filing this week, the label’s holding company, Pilotto De Vos Ltd., is set to be removed from Companies House, the official register of U.K. businesses, and will cease to exist. A source close to the label said designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos “have decided to take a break and pause the Peter Pilotto brand. The plan is to take some time to reassess the future of the brand, its structure, business models and operations.” The source added that when a decision about the future of the company has been finalized, an announcement will be made. Peter Pilotto designers and principals did not return repeated requests for comment. Late last year, the brand laid off members of its design team, according to a separate industry source. A pop-up, which opened at 21 Bruton Place and which was set to remain open until May, has shut. The designers did not stage a fall 2020 runway show in London or Milan. The duo launched their label in 2007 and quickly made a name

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Marchon’s Big Bet on Karl Lagerfeld Eyewear’s New Course

A year after Karl Lagerfeld’s death, the namesake brand is powering ahead, brimming with energy and projects and so, too, are the label’s partners, including Marchon Eyewear Inc., the eyewear specialist that has been its licensee since 2007. In 2017 the two parties renewed their licensing agreement, which now stretches until 2023. But this year marks a new course for the Lagerfeld eyewear line, which is undergoing a repositioning both in terms of price point and design, tapping into the masstige segment, in line with the rest of the label’s products. “Karl was always very enthusiastic about what masstige could mean for brands, kind of combining the styling and the taste of a prestige brand with a much broader reach and we felt that it was the right time for the label to also embrace this positioning,” Thomas Burkhardt, Marchon’s senior vice president of global licensing, marketing and design, told WWD. The price range will be lowered and narrowed starting from the spring 2020 collection, which was to be unveiled at Mido later this month until the Milan-based international eyewear trade show decided last week to postpone its dates to July 5 to 7 due to the coronavirus outbreak. According to the new strategy,

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Net-a-porter to Release 20 Exclusive T-shirts for International Women’s Day

Net-a-porter, which has been in business 20 years, is marking International Women’s Day on March 8 with the introduction of 20 exclusive T-shirts. Now in its third year of partnership with Women for Women International, 100 percent of Net-a-porter proceeds will be donated to the charity which helps women living in conflict-affected countries to rebuild their lives. The T-shirts go on sale Friday and will be available exclusively at netaporter.com Twenty brands and female designers were invited to submit designs for their T-shirts, including Stella McCartney, Gabriela Hearst, Alexa Chung, Isabel Marant, Amina Muaddi, Carine Roitfeld, Jimmy Choo, Rotate, Bernadette, Rosie Assoulin, Staud, The Attico, The Range, The Frankie Shop, Ganni, Nanushka, Charlotte Tilbury, Cecilie Bahnsen, Roxanne Assoulin, alongside Net-a-porter x Ninety Percent collaboration. Each designer was asked to give her interpretation of women’s empowerment and strength. The Net-a-porter x Ninety Percent design calls out all “Incredible Women,” while The Attico’s Let Your Hair Down T-shirt inspires women to feel confident and comfortable in their own skin. McCartney’s T-shirt shows a sense of sisterhood and compassion, featuring an illustration from her fall/winter 2019 campaign, where women come together in mutual support and love of the earth. Jimmy Choo’s tongue-in-cheek wordplay says to “Choos”

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Pierre Denis Steps Down as CEO of Jimmy Choo After 8 Years

LONDON — Pierre Denis, the chief executive officer of Jimmy Choo who shepherded the company through a whirlwind of growth and change, is stepping down in May after eight years. Denis joined Jimmy Choo in 2012 from John Galliano SA, and succeeded Joshua Schulman in the role. He was hired by Choo’s then-parent Labelux, now JAB Holding. During his tenure he helped to take the company public on the London Stock Exchange in 2014, with JAB maintaining a majority stake in the brand. In 2017, Capri Holdings Ltd., then known as Michael Kors Holdings Ltd., purchased Jimmy Choo for $1.35 billion. The deal was a jaw-dropping 17.5-times Choo’s adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization, and well ahead of the 10.4-times to 15-times multiples seen in recent years, according to EY’s Luxury and Cosmetics Financial Factbook. “Pierre has been an outstanding leader of Jimmy Choo, delivering consistent strong performance and driving the growth of the brand,” said John Idol, chairman and ceo of Capri Holdings. “He leaves a company that is in robust health. I would like to express my thanks and good wishes to Pierre as he moves on to his next role. Jimmy Choo has an excellent team in place, and I

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