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Friday, 31 May 2019
EXCLUSIVE: Hit Punjabi dance number to be recreated in Sonakshi Sinha, Varun Sharma and Badshah starrer
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Thursday, 30 May 2019
Street Dancer 3D: Prabhudheva RE-CREATES the iconic Mukkala Muqabala on screen, Varun Dhawan – Shraddha Kapoor cheer on
EXCLUSIVE: Armani Men Skin Care Set to Launch
PARIS — Armani Beauty’s new skin-care line is surfing two swelling trends: that of grooming for guys and consumers’ quest for sustainable products. The launch of Armani Men, starting in June, is also part of Armani Beauty’s evolution. “Armani Beauty is completing a successful transformation, from a mainly fragrance-driven business to a [billion-euro-plus], global, three-axes beauty brand, well-balanced between fragrances, makeup and now skin care, with a strong acceleration of the Crema Nera range, in particular, due to a boom in China and more generally in Asia,” Véronique Gautier, global president of Giorgio Armani Fragrance and Beauty, told WWD. The formulas for Armani Men’s three products have up to 99 percent of their ingredients derived from nature and are highly biodegradable. The products also come in eco-designed packaging. There’s the Face Wash, the Toner and the Moisturizer Face & Eyes, each billed to have only ingredients that are essential and efficacious, to give moisturizing and antipollution effects. The Face Wash, which has 99 percent of its ingredients from nature, includes jojoba pearls and birchbark extract, plus the MAG C vitality complex to protect skin. The 98 percent biodegradable formula purifies, smooths and softens skin. The Toner is said to soothe, moisturize and energize all types ofFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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EXCLUSIVE: ANDAM Announces Prize Finalists
PARIS — Coperni, Hed Mayner, Koché and Kwaidan Editions are this year’s finalists for the French fashion prize ANDAM, worth 250,000 euros. “This year’s selection of Andam finalists was particularly diverse and interesting,” noted Renzo Rosso, head of Italian fashion group OTB, owner of Maison Margiela, who is this year’s mentor to the prize winner. Rosso noted the selection was not linked to a single market trend or “too business driven.” Coperni, founded by Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant, was a finalist for an ANDAM prize in 2014. The designers went on to become artistic directors of Courrèges until 2017 and relaunched their brand earlier this year, taking to the catwalk for Paris Fashion Week in February. Israeli designer Hed Mayner also showed his men’s wear collection in Paris in February, playing on bulk and layering in neutral tones. Koché, Christelle Kocher’s upscale ready-to-wear label with streetwear and contemporary art references, was featured in WWD’s feature “Ten of Tomorrow in 2016.” Léa Dickely and Hung La are the design duo behind Kwaidan Editions, a finalist for the LVMH prize last year. ANDAM, the French acronym for the National Association for the Development of the Fashion Arts, is one of France’s oldest and most prestigious prizes,Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Think Tank: The Blue Truth About Sustainability in Denim
Over the past few years, there has been a major buzzword in the denim Industry: sustainability. But to truly understand the definition of sustainability, I needed to look it up. Sustainability is a complex concept. The most cited definition relates to sustainable development that meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations. It also means the avoidance of the depletion of natural resources in order to maintain an ecological balance. While attending a Kingpins Transformers show, the theme was about sustainability and transparency. Previously, the presentations involved brand representatives talking about sustainability from more of a marketing perspective. This time, though, it was farmers and growers talking about sustainability “from the plant to the pant.” That day I was transformed and was the start of a search to find a truly sustainable supply chain. Which led me to reveal some “blue truths” about the denim industry while raising some key questions: Is sustainability a trend like ripped or upcycled jeans? What does it mean to be truly transparent and sustainable? Pete Seeger Shutterstock / Sandra A. Dunlap I am often reminded of a Pete Seeger quote from 1969 urging people to “think globally and act locally.” Which got meFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
from WWDWWD http://bit.ly/2WbvBEO
Woolrich International Names New CEO
MILAN — Woolrich International has named Stefano Saccone as its new chief executive officer. The appointment will be effective this summer. Saccone, who succeeds Paolo Corinaldesi, joins Woolrich International from VF Corp., where most recently he was vice president and general manager of Vans EMEA. In the American group, he also covered the role of vice president sales and marketing of Napapijri EMEA and vice president and general manager of Eastpack. In the past, he also worked for Ermenegildo Zegna, Procter & Gamble, Ralph Lauren and Nike. In his new role, Saccone will lead the expansion plan of Woolrich International — which last year passed under the control of L-Gam, a Luxembourg-based investment firm backed by the princely family of Liechtenstein — in specific markets, including North America, Asia, England and France, along with consolidating the company’s retail plan with a focus on online commerce and an omnichannel strategy. “It is a privilege to join Woolrich at this exciting time and I look forward to building on the outstanding work of Cristina Calori [the owner of WP Lavori in Corso, the company formerly controlling Woolrich] and Andrea Canè [Woolrich creative director] to further grow the brand and business,” Saccone said, adding that heFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Greg Lauren Collaborates With Paul & Shark on Three-Drop Collection
MILAN — Paul & Shark has teamed with Greg Lauren on a special men’s collection, which will include three drops. The first capsule will hit selected top stores, including H.Lorenzo, Barneys New York, Kith Miami, Browns, Antonioli, l’Eclaireur, Joyce, Dover Street Market Ginza and 10 Corso Como Seoul, on June 3. “This is a very exciting project for me and it’s an incredible opportunity to work with Paul & Shark,” said Greg Lauren, Ralph Lauren’s nephew, who in 2011 launched his namesake label. The Greg Lauren brand offers pieces where traditional staples are reworked with an arty, artisanal touch. “I come from the world of heritage and Paul & Shark is a third-generation company with a great reputation. I think it was a natural fit. I think I know how to take heritage and redefine it in a way that is artistic and modern. I really believe that the new luxury sits in creativity and uniqueness.” The first drop, which was crafted by hand by Lauren in Los Angeles, consists of seven styles, including a peacoat, a pair of army navy pants, a pair of fleece trousers, hooded sweatshirts, a work jacket and a beanie. Lauren created all the designs by reworking, destroyingFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Men’s Suit Trend 2020: New Wave
The resurgence began during the men’s shows in January and is likely to continue as the spring 2020 collections kick off, beginning with Saint Laurent in L.A. and Prada in Shanghai next week, and then moving on to London, Milan and Paris.Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Bridget Foley’s Diary: Rihanna and the Rest
It’s live! Fenty.com opened for business on Wednesday, the public consummation of the much-hyped commitment between Rihanna and LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. Vocal reaction to the nascent partnership has been mostly euphoric, the deal touted as indicative of fashion’s expanding borders, a major step for Rihanna in her ongoing evolution from global pop star to global pop-culture mogul, and a salient move by LVMH for having brought this creative juggernaut into its fold, a pro-diversity milestone laudable in an industry not as worldly woke as it likes to fancy itself. No question, the deal puts Rihanna on a well-funded path to potential luxury mogul-hood and puts yet another LVMH brand firmly in the limelight. Yet one aspect of this partnership has been under-discussed: What it represents for the larger industry, in particular, for the pure creation side, and for the future trajectory of the traditionally trained designer. The celebrity infiltration of fashion didn’t happen yesterday, nor did it start in the design studio. It first emerged on the cover of magazines, when models got shoved aside in favor of actresses. That was long ago, and a great deal has happened since (that models have made something of comeback even as magazinesFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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EXCLUSIVE: CFDA Taps Hong Kong Entrepreneur Adrian Cheng as First Global Ambassador
In a major move for East-West fashion relations, Adrian Cheng, the Hong Kong-based founder of K11 Group and C Ventures, has been named the first CFDA global ambassador with the mandate to help emerging and established American designers expand their international businesses. As part of his four-year ambassadorial role, Cheng, the 39-year-old entrepreneur, will support the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s educational programs and play a key role in helping American designers’ strategies in China, and throughout Asia. The CFDA and Cheng will develop a series of international programs, apprentice programs and scholarships that foster cross-cultural exchanges to create innovative business models and approaches. The relationship is also expected to drive growth for the CFDA across Asia. “My ambition is to build communities that make a transformative impact through art, culture, architecture, design, heritage, craftsmanship and sustainability,” said Cheng. “So it is an honor to become the CFDA’s first-ever global ambassador to work with them to support, nurture and accelerate the next generations of American fashion talent through a global perspective.” In 2008, Cheng founded K11 Group, which encompasses a portfolio of companies including retail, luxury residences and working spaces. By 2024, there is expected to be 36 K11 projects in nineFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
from WWDWWD http://bit.ly/2HO5L16
EXCLUSIVE: Todd Snyder to Open at Former J. Crew Liquor Store Site
Todd Snyder is heading to TriBeCa. The CFDA Award-winning designer confirmed to WWD that his label will open its second New York City store at 237 West Broadway in TriBeCa in the former J. Crew Liquor Store space. Snyder in 2008 played an integral role in J. Crew taking over the space, which was formerly an alcohol purveyor. The company transformed the aging storefront into a downtown men’s fashion destination with a rustic look and a vintage charm, and Snyder, who was J. Crew’s senior vice president of men’s wear at the time, was part of the project every step of the way. Snyder worked with Andy Spade and then-chief executive officer Mickey Drexler to create the men’s emporium that also served as the introduction of the brand’s Ludlow suit style, which remains among its best-selling models today. “This space holds a lot of history for me and I can’t wait to get back to my roots,” Snyder said. “When we first launched the Liquor Store, I wanted to create a new retail experience and since then, I’ve been able to do that with my own brand. Now there’s a fresh opportunity to reimagine the location where it all started.” Snyder worked with his parentFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Retail’s Roller-coaster Week on Wall Street
Retail has a tough crowd to please on Wall Street these days. Investors are more ready than ever to jump ship and sell at any sign of weakness. And while volatility has seemed to become one of the only stock market constants in recent years, the extreme declines over the past month have sharpened the focus on retail and fashion — and not in a good way. Despite the ultra-low U.S. unemployment rate of 3.6 percent, consumers aren’t investing in fashion — and investors are taking that seriously. The weakness has been attributed to everything from changing shopping habits to uncertainty over Brexit and the U.S.-China trade war, which threatens to slap an additional 25 percent levy on apparel and footwear made in China. Those duties would come on top of existing tariffs for apparel and footwear, which averaged 13.1 percent last year, according to the American Apparel & Footwear Association. “It’s making investors not want to buy these [retail] stocks ahead of what could be a negative event, if [across the board] tariffs in fact become a reality,” said Jay Sole, retail analyst at UBS. “Retail would be one of those sectors where the market is showing the most amount ofFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
from WWDWWD http://bit.ly/2HKxNui
Prada Designs Exclusive Collection for TheDoubleF
Prada has developed an exclusive collection for online store TheDoubleF, the digital arm of Italian retailer Folli Follie. The limited-edition collection, which will be available at the e-tailer June 1 to 23, includes 20 pieces for women and 15 men’s styles, spanning from ready-to-wear to accessories and footwear. “We are honored that such a prestigious brand decided to develop a very articulated, rich collection for us,” said Francesco Galli, Folli Follie chief executive officer. “This project will inaugurate a series of collaborations that we will develop with a range of international brands to offer our customers exclusive, unique products.” TheDoubleF x Prada limited-edition collection. Courtesy Photo The capsule includes designs mainly crafted from cotton, nylon and nylon gabardine, while the color palette combines black with red, hot pink and emerald green. The pieces, including T-shirts, sweatshirts, jackets, skirts and dresses, are embellished with prints and patches featuring lightning bolts, graphic roses, or monster’s hands, done in something of a romantic way. The same motifs return in the accessories, such as chain bags, totes and baseball caps. A preview of the collection, which will be promoted through a digital campaign with Asian influencers, will be available for selected guests at One-Off, the luxury multibrand store opened earlierFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Oscar de la Renta Resort 2020
“Japan,” Laura Kim stated the starting point for her and Fernando Garcia’s resort collection for Oscar de la Renta, the theme not readily apparent form a quick perusal of the racks during a showroom appointment on Thursday. “It’s not obvious,” Kim said. “We looked to the Meiji era, when Japan opened to Western culture.” She referred to the reign of the Emperor Meiji, under whom Japan transformed from feudal state to a modern power during his reign in the late 18th and early 20th centuries. Among the period references thus examined: photos of men in lavishly appointed military garb, from which the designers distilled elements of ceremonial hardware. Hence, dangling gold chains figured prominently in a chic navy group, draping the waists of a curvy dress with deep-V neckline and trousers worn with a matching top and ivory tailored jacket, forming an intricate asymmetric web on the torso of a one-shouldered goddess gown. Other nods came in abstract seaming that referenced the country’s “mending culture,” and various florals, including a full-length panel that ran the back of a khaki trench and another panel that decorated the inside of an otherwise unfettered, elegant black kimono-inspired coat. Throughout, there was a recurring dialogue betweenFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
from WWDWWD http://bit.ly/2HO5ISY
Balloons Up, Central Saint Martins Dashes Out Bold Ideas at BA Fashion Show
BLOWN AWAY: Central Saint Martins presented its annual BA Fashion show in its Granary Square campus on Thursday evening. Some 43 design students from print, knitwear, women’s wear, men’s wear and design with marketing pathways showcased their latest work to the industry experts. Fridrik Tjaerandsen, a Norwegian native who has worked in Balenciaga, Louis Vuitton, Craig Green and J.W.Anderson won the L’Oréal Professionnel Young Talent Award, the highest honor the college presents to its design students. Tjaerandsen closed the show with a number of colorful giant balloons. Models walked down the runway and leaked the air halfway, turning the balloon into a rubber dress. Such magical transformations were received with cheers and applause from the audience. That reaction soon spread across the Internet, causing online sensation within hours after the show. Billy Porter, an actor known for his flamboyant Met gala outfit this year and a Golden Globe nominee, wrote “AWWWWWWWW!!!” on Interview magazine’s Instagram post about Tjaerandsen’s work. Tony Liu, co-founder of Diet Prada, shared three Instagram Stories shot from various angels capturing Tjaerandsen’s work on his personal account. View this post on Instagram Looks for the RUpocalypse today at Central Saint Martins @fredriktjaerandsen 🤯 @bafcsm #RG @juliahobbs_ AFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Couture Watch Trend 2020: Fun Time
Think “Miami Vice” as the muse for a guy who is dripping in gold and has a lot of time on his hands.Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
from WWDWWD http://bit.ly/2HPJkbT
Couture Jewelry Trend 2020: All Excess
Fine jewelry has a mood of over-the-top opulence with standout pieces in emeralds, semiprecious stones and of course, gold.Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
from WWDWWD http://bit.ly/2QxYfKq
Gap CEO ‘Not Satisfied’ With Performance in ‘Challenging’ Q1
Gap Inc. managed to show an increase in its first-quarter net profit but had disappointing sales performances across all divisions and failed to meet Wall Street expectations. Net income for the quarter reached $227 million, versus $164 million in the year-ago period, but comparable sales were down 4 percent in the last quarter compared with a 1 percent increase last year. By division, Old Nav’s global comparable sales were negative 1 percent; Gap global was negative 10 percent, and Banana Republic global was negative 3 percent. Adjusted earnings per share were 24 cents, while 32 cents had been expected. Art Peck disappointed with Gap Inc.’s first-quarter performance. Mark Lennihan/AP/REX/Shutterstock Net sales were $3.7 billion, a decrease of 2 percent compared with last year. The translation of foreign currencies into U.S. dollars negatively impacted the company’s net sales for the first quarter by about $34 million. The company ended the first quarter of fiscal year 2019 with $2.24 billion in merchandise inventory, up about 10 percent. The company said the increase in inventory was impacted by the acquisition of Janie and Jack, increases in in-transit times, and net store growth year-over-year. “This quarter was extremely challenging, and we are not at all satisfied with our results. We are committedFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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All Together Now, Hermès USA Meets and Greets
Those visiting Times Square on Memorial Day a little after 8 a.m. might have done a double take. Standing cheek-to-jowl on the red steps of the TKTS Broadway discount ticket booths were 750 people, the American employees of Hermès of Paris. The photo op was part of an event unofficially dubbed Hermès Family Reunion, which was held at Manhattan’s Marriott Marquis Hotel. “We use the word ‘family’ in a very warm sense,” said Robert Chavez, president and chief executive officer of Hermès USA. “It’s all about family and community. It was a great time to bring everybody together, to connect and share. Because we’ve gotten bigger and our business has gotten bigger, we wanted to say that we care about you and want you to feel connected to each other.” Chavez declined to disclose the budget for the event, but said it “wasn’t insignificant.” Besides the travel expenses, the company closed all of its U.S. stores for three days, so that the retail staff could participate in the reunion. “We’re aware of the lost sales,” Chavez said. “That’s irrelevant. We told our clients there’s a special company-wide gathering taking place in New York City from May 26 to 28, and said we’ll reopenFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Victor Luis Says Tapestry’s International Expansion Is in Full Swing
NEW YORK — Victor Luis made the case for continued growth at Tapestry Inc. during the Bernstein Strategic Decisions Conference. Luis, chief executive officer of Tapestry, parent company of Coach, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman, met with investors on Thursday to talk about the company’s “limitless” opportunities. “Especially when we think about global growth,” the ceo said, which he added will be driven by comps and distribution. “The single most important asset we have is ensuring the health of our brands from a long-term perspective,” Luis said. “That comes down to controlling distribution, controlling and managing pricing as much as possible, putting the right marketing in place and making sure we remain a culturally relevant part of the conversation, which is absolutely key when you’re in fashion.” While Wall Street has been reluctant to get on board — Tapestry’s shares are down 17.5 percent year-to-date during a tough period for retail and fashion stocks in general — the company improved on top-line sales during its most recent quarter, sending shares surging, at least for the day. Luis said upgrading the assortment — especially at Kate Spade under the helm of newish creative director Nicola Glass, who unveiled her inaugural collection withFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Ulta Beauty Plans Canada Launch, Its First International Move
Ulta Beauty is going international. The Bolingbrook, Ill.-based business said Thursday that it had plans to open its first non-U.S. locations, in Canada. “Our first step in becoming a global beauty retailer will be to prepare to launch operations in Canada,” said chief executive officer Mary Dillon in a statement. The expansion news came at the same time as the company’s first-quarter earnings. Dillon said the company’s “results reflect a healthy balance of traffic and ticket growth, and double-digit comparable sales growth in mass cosmetics, skin care and fragrance, tempered by continued mixed performance in prestige cosmetics.” For the quarter, Ulta’s net sales increased 12.9 percent to $1.74 billion, up from $1.54 billion in the prior-year period. Net income was up 16.9 percent year-over-year, to $192.2 million, from $164.4 million. Diluted earnings per share were up 20.7 percent, to $3.26. Ulta plans to open 80 stores in 2019. The company said it expects sales to increase in the low double-digits percentage range.Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Guess, Jennifer Lopez Strike Tour Deal
Jennifer Lopez and Guess Inc. appear to enjoy working together. The singer and actress, along with the Los Angeles denim label, said Thursday they’ve struck a deal that brings Guess along for Lopez’s “It’s My Party” tour with a range of concert T-shirts and a Lopez-inspired graphic denim jacket. The tour starts June 7 at The Forum in L.A. and includes more than 30 stops in the U.S. and Canada in June and July, including Madison Square Garden in New York, Prudential Center in New Jersey, American Airlines Arena in Miami, United Center in Chicago and Scotiabank Arena in Toronto. Guess will provide custom pieces for Lopez’s back-up dancers and Lopez herself will wear Guess- and Marciano-branded pieces during fan meet-and-greets. On the merchandise side, Guess created a line of concert merchandise exclusive to the tour and to be sold within the venues. A few pieces from the line will also be sold in the company’s stores and online. A piece from the capsule Guess created for Jennifer Lopez’s “It’s My Party” tour. As more companies explore the potential in “merch-driven” capsules stemming from the continued consumer interest in the graphic T-shirt, concert merchandise isn’t a far stretch. It’s not the first time Guess hasFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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PVH’s Growth Prospects: More Tommy Distribution, Nike Underwear
When Stefan Larsson steps in as president of PVH Corp. on Monday — and starts learning the ropes to take over the job of chief executive officer from Emanuel Chirico — he will come into a company with lots of moving parts and hopes that the second half will show stronger trends. “We believe that as we head into the second half of the year, we will be up against significantly easier [comparable] store sales comparisons and that the noise around trade and tariffs will moderate,” Chirico told analysts on Thursday after PVH reported a 1.8 percent gain in first-quarter sales and better-than-projected adjusted earnings. Comp sales at both Tommy Hilfiger and Calvin Klein fell in the quarter. “We expect a much healthier back half of the year for the company,” he said. “We believe that the incredible brand power behind Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger continues to position us well in the marketplace against our competition in light of the difficult macro and retail environment.” That macro environment includes a strong U.S. dollar, which is hurting tourism spending, and costs associated to the trade war in China, which is starting to impact consumers on both sides of the Pacific. Investors are growing waryFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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YNAP Creates Female-Only Contest
MILAN — Yoox Net-a-porter Group is reinforcing its commitment to support and promote digital education among younger generations. This time the company has launched a female-only contest with the goal of showing the creative possibilities offered by technology and encourage women to purse digital careers, ultimately aiming to increase female representation in the tech industry. “There aren’t enough women in tech,” said the company’s chairman and chief executive officer Federico Marchetti. “We strongly believe that fashion can provide an effective lens to tackle this issue and change young people’s perceptions, helping to introduce more female talent to digital careers and fulfill their creative potential.” Dubbed “Incredible Girls of the Future” and running through July 1, the competition invites international young women aged 16 to 25 to submit ideas for the creation of an innovative new fashion app. A sustainable approach is among the elements requested in the projects, which need to drive sustainable change and positively impact the industry. In order to select the winners, YNAP has tapped a panel of jurors comprising international fashion and technology profiles. These include M Missoni’s creative director Margherita Maccapani Missoni, who underscored the importance to “nurture young talents and provide a platform for their voices to be heard.Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Giuseppe Marretta Joins Pringle of Scotland as Men’s Wear Design Director
LONDON — Pringle of Scotland has tapped Giuseppe Marretta as men’s wear design director. Maretta will debut his first collection as a presentation during Paris fashion week men’s. “I’m incredibly proud to join Pringle of Scotland. It is a company with one of the longest histories in the fashion industry, and it’s amazing to have the opportunity to evolve such a rich heritage into a contemporary brand,” he said. Maretta previously served as head of knit and jersey at Giorgio Armani. Prior to that position, he was a junior designer at Ermenegildo Zegna and acted as a consultant designer to Agnona, Corneliani and Brioni. “Pringle’s strong knitwear DNA is very much the heart of the brand, as well as the heart of my design passion. I’m honored to be able to contribute to the next chapter of Pringle history,” he said. With his strong history in knitwear, Maretta will be a welcome addition to the team according to Jean Fang, chief executive officer of Pringle of Scotland. “Men’s wear has already played such an iconic part of the brand and its history and Giuseppe has the experience, knowledge and passion for knitwear to evolve this famous history for a contemporary audience and the wayFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Free Market Wants to Be a Cultural Hub in Denver
Free Market, a collective of evolving brands, events and experiences tailored to the community, has opened an 11,000-square-foot flagship in downtown Denver’s Dairy Block micro-district. The store is part of an ambitious rollout that will include a 27,000-square-foot Free Market bowing later this year at Playa Vista Runway in Los Angeles. “We’re always going to be tweaking it, but it’s surpassed our expectations on opening weekend, May 18-19,” said cofounder Raan Parton. “The brands are very excited about their sales just out of the gate. All of the stores surpassed the sales of their other flagships. Jenni Kayne is on track to do $600 to $700 per square foot.” Besides Kayne, other brands include AYR, Aesop, Westerlind, Claire V., Beautycounter, Rosemont Barber Shop, Fortuna Chocolate and Alchemy Works, which sells apothecary products, jewelry, leather goods and found items that appeal to Raand and his wife, Lindsay Parton, who launched the store in 2013. The Partons installed Warby Parker in the space next door to Free Market. The eyewear brand operates shop-in-shops at the two original Alchemy Works locations, in the Los Angeles Arts District and Newport Beach, Calif. The Maven Hotel occupies another of the Dairy Block’s historic properties. James Beard semifinalist Kelly WhitakerFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Former Biotech Exec Rolls Out Multibrand Beauty Business
Barbara Paldus is planning to use her outsider status to her advantage in the beauty industry. Paldus, who built two Silicon Valley start-ups, including Finesse Solutions, a biotech business that Thermo Fisher Scientific bought in 2017, is channeling her entrepreneurial energy into the beauty category. Using money from the sale of Finesse, Paldus has created a fund called Sekhmut Ventures, which will invest in beauty and wellness businesses, including her first operation — Codex. Codex will be a multibrand beauty company, and will unveil its initial line in June. Called Bia, it will launch five stockkeeping units for summer, and five more in the fall. Prices range from $42 to $85. The line is meant to provide a basic skin-care routine at affordable prices, Paldus said. The products are clinically tested — something she insisted on after her time in biotech — and contain a plant-based preservative blend that Paldus worked to develop. Bia, an Irish business Paldus acquired and integrated into Codex, will be sold online. The business plans to have global scale — it already has Irish, U.K. and U.S. operations, and is planning to open Singapore and China businesses in the next six months, Paldus said. Codex also intends to roll outFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Think Tank: 19 Branding Lessons From the Top 5 Retailers
The top five retailers in the U.S. made nearly $230 billion dollars in 2018. So, they must be doing something right. Walmart, Amazon, Costco, Walgreens and Home Depot have each built strong brand identities and all benefit from powerful household recognition and strong brand equity. As we noted in a prior report, “A brand is the sum total of the experience your customers and customer prospects have with your company. A strong brand communicates what your company does, how it does it and, at the same time, establishes trust and credibility with your prospects and customers. Your company’s brand is, in many ways, its personality. Your brand lives in everyday interactions your company has with its prospects and customers, including the images you share, the messages you post on your web site, the content of your marketing materials, your presentations and booths at conferences, and your posts on social networks.” These top retail businesses know that their brand is invaluable. These are the businesses that we should be learning from. So, we’ve studied what these mega-brands are doing right…and wrong. We’ve cultivated a list of five actionable lessons that apply to retail businesses of any size — not just mega-retailers. Walmart: Build a better brandFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
from WWDWWD http://bit.ly/2JMqgNE
Lee Spielman Keeps Babylon Close to Its Skateboarding Roots as the Brand Grows
LOS ANGELES — “This kid skates like he’s being chased,” Babylon’s Lee Spielman said, looking at the video playing on his iPhone. Spielman, who started the brand Babylon with Garrett Stevenson in 2015, is just barely getting over jet lag from back-to-back pop-ups in Osaka, Japan, and Tokyo that included now sold-out collaborations with Japanese brands Wasted Youth, Bounty Hunter, Neighborhood, ReadymMade and the artist Kosuke Kawamura. The shops were aimed at building buzz around the release of Babylon’s spring collection, which continues to expand and diversify with each season. It’s a glimpse into how the overall brand is maturing, while staying true to its core skater. Spring was accompanied with a video that went viral and won a nod from Virgil Abloh and many others for its cinematic quality. Some 20 skaters, artists and DJs, all friends of the brand, are featured in the 58-second clip that slowly pans across each person staged on a dirt path in East Los Angeles before what appears to be a burning palm tree is revealed in the final frames. “We’re just trying to keep elevating what we can do. For us, that was a full production. It was the first time we had a bigFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Unknwn Looks to Private Label to Grow Brand
Unknwn is looking to boost its private label offering in a big push this year to grow its own brand. The Miami retailer — known for its assortment of clothing and sneakers for the streetwear customer — has always had its own branded apparel, although it was largely T-shirts and sweatshirts. It’s now looking at more cut-and-sew and a tiered approach via its Unknwn Sport line of casual pieces, Unknwn Hotel for luxury travel basics and the more trendy Unknwn Collection. “The value of private label for a retailer has changed and grown as far as how important it is for a retailer to build its brand and establish its brand,” said Unknwn chief executive officer and cofounder Jaron Kanfer. “Back when we first opened, we always had T-shirts, hoodies in the store, and merch and logo-driven product has been very successful over the past years. Now, for us, with the expansion of the Unknwn brand, we see a good opportunity to take it a little more seriously and start to develop more cut-and-sew for who the Unknwn customer really is.” That shopper, generally speaking, is between the ages of 15 and 45 and well-traveled, Kanfer described. It’s also a diverse clientele whoFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Uniqlo Announces Date for Milan Store Opening
AT LAST: Japanese affordable retailer Uniqlo announced on Thursday that its first Italian store will open its doors on Sept. 13 in Milan. As reported, the company has secured a three-level space in the city’s historic Piazza Cordusio, near Piazza del Duomo, where it will offer LifeWear for men, women and kids over a 16,146-square-foot surface. Uniqlo Italia’s chief operating officer Kohsuke Kobayashi expressed respect “for Italians and their cultural heritage. There are many similarities between Italy and Japan, ranging from the importance of beauty and the quality of life to instinctively appreciating design and innovation.” The flagship will occupy one of the main buildings at the central Piazza Cordusio square, which is undergoing significant real estate changes and is increasingly becoming attractive to tourists. In addition to the upcoming Uniqlo launch and Starbucks’ first Milanese unit opened there last year, the area is expected to welcome a luxury hotel under the Melià banner in the future. Meanwhile, Uniqlo’s products are already available in Italy through the brand’s online store. Italy is 10th European country entered by the company and marks the brand’s 23rd market overall. The label counts more than 2,000 stores in 22 countries worldwide. Uniqlo is one of the eight brands controlled byFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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United Colors of Benetton in Green Hue
GOING GREEN: Within its long-standing commitment to corporate social responsibility, Benetton Group said Thursday it plans to convert all of its cotton production to be entirely sustainable by 2025. In 2015 the Italian fashion group created a sustainability committee and in 2017 it became a member of the Better Cotton Initiative, a worldwide program that aims to make cotton production increasingly sustainable for the people involved in its production, as well as for the environment. As part of this, last year the group succeeded in having 23 percent of the cotton used for the Sisley and United Colors of Benetton collections be certified by the BCI. “Cotton is one of the fibers most loved by consumers, who appreciate its versatility and freshness. However, its conventional cultivation — with fertilizers, pesticides and chemicals — negatively impacts the environment,” stated the company. “Our commitment to BCI broadens the sphere of action beyond environmental protection, to include also both social and economic aspects.” By 2025 the group expects to work with cotton that is 100 percent sustainable for both of its brands — whether organic, recycled or sourced from BCI-certified farmers.Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Altagamma Forecasts Lack of Workforce in High-End Companies by 2023
MILAN — The Italian high-end companies operating in fashion, design, hospitality, automotive and food categories will face a lack of 236,000 professional profiles by 2023, according to Altagamma. The association, which represents more than 100 Italian cultural and creative high-end firms, on Thursday presented a book highlighting the issue at Rome’s Palazzo Montecitorio, which houses Italy’s chamber of deputies. Dubbed “I Talenti del Fare,” or “The talents of making” in English, the book offers an analysis of the companies’ current situation and forecasts the challenges the industry will have to face in the future. “In the upcoming years, Made in Italy manufacturing companies and those offering services will see a lack of a consistent part of qualified workforce needed to fuel their growth,” said Altagamma’s president Andrea Illy. Out of the 236,000 jobs expected to be missing, 70 percent are technicians, as specialized schools are not enrolling and training enough students to meet the companies’ demand. According to the tome, the gap is a result of institutional and technical issues since schools are managed independently by each region, and also due to the little appeal these types of jobs hold for younger generations. Students opting to attend professional schools or technical institutes account for 15 percentFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Tiny Dancer, On Repeat
Buckle up: “Rocketman” has officially launched. After premiering at the Cannes Film Festival earlier this month, the Elton John biopic headed to Alice Tully Hall Wednesday night for the film’s New York premiere. The evening went like this: 5:18: Walking by the Mandarin Oriental, I notice a lineup of black SUVs and a small crowd gathered behind metal barricades on the sidewalk. “What, is Richard Madden staying here or something?” I wonder, and then notice that the burly security guys are all wearing “Big Little Lies” lanyards. Yes: the show’s season two premiere is just next door, at Jazz at Lincoln Center. This is tough competition: “Rocketman” is big, but “BLL” has Meryl. And Nicole Kidman. 5:28: Inside the hall, a crowd of fans is installed in the carpet’s backdrop. They are all dressed to impress: colorful tinsel wigs, bedazzled star-shaped sunglasses, feather boas. Some are wearing Elton John Ts. Most are holding cutouts of star Taron Egerton’s head on a stick, and one woman is holding a fake microphone. Further down the carpet, another woman is holding an inflatable saxophone. If only there were inflatable chairs, too. 5:29: The fans are all singing along to John’s top hits, blasting from the soundFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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More Changes Afoot at Esquire Magazine
Jay Fielden’s sudden exit as editor in chief of Esquire isn’t the only shake-up expected at the men’s magazine. Beyond Fielden’s departure, first reported by WWD, his number two, Michael Hainey, is said to be officially out as well. Hainey serves as executive director of editorial for Esquire, as well as editorial director of Town & Country, and is said to be leaving both positions within the next week or two. Fielden in 2016 brought Hainey on from Condé Nast’s GQ, where he’d been for about 13 years, citing his expertise in “the art of great magazine making.” He’s thought to have maintained a rather strict focus on print, an attitude that doesn’t jibe too well with the digital- and data-driven Hearst Magazines president, Troy Young. At any rate, Hainey may be up for a position at the incubating Gawker 2.0, now under the ownership of Bryan Goldberg’s Bustle Digital Group. Dan Peres, former editor in chief of the defunct Condé Nast magazine Details, was recently tapped to be editor in chief of the new Gawker and is working to fill out the masthead and relaunch the site, once the pinnacle of gossip reporting overflowing with snark. Hainey met with Peres someFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Tara Zadeh Toasts Handbag Collection in London
NEW LOOK: Handbag designer Tara Ghazanfar introduced London’s fashion set to the wonders of Persian cuisine Wednesday night. Guests like jewelry designers Anissa Kermiche and Leila Kashanipour, influencers Soraya Bakhtiar, Nina Suess and Camille Charriere were among those who took in the feast of colors and spices at the Iranian restaurant Hafez in West London. The occasion was the launch of the new fall 2019 collection for Ghazanfar’s handbag label Tara Zadeh, which she expanded to include a broader range of styles. “I will always want to keep our signature Azar clutch in the collections, but I wanted to also bring in more new ideas. You still have this focus on geometric shapes and the play with color and texture, but also a dose of newness,” said Ghazanfar, who hails from Iran and is London-based. Anissa Kermiche, Tara Ghazanfar and Camille Charriere. Courtesy of Abbie Roden A former graphic designer, Ghazanfar took on the accessories market three years ago and quickly built an audience and key global stockists — including Net-a-porter, Browns, Selfridges and Moda Operandi — around her flair for bold colors and graphic, geometric shapes. Her signature circular-shaped Azar clutch is a big Instagram hit, but while it will remain a collection hero, the designer feltFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Diesel Awards Aalto University Graduate
MILAN — Diesel has reinforced its commitment to support young talents by partnering with Finnish Aalto University, established in 2010 as a merger of three major local universities operating in the technology, economics, art and design fields. After hosting a dinner at Helsinki’s storied Hotel Kämp to celebrate the institution’s 2019 graduating class, the company bestowed a Diesel Award to one of the graduates presenting their final collections during a fashion show staged on Wednesday. The award went to Justus Kantakoski, who was one of the five contestants showing customized Diesel denim pieces in their final project. With the accolade, Kantakoski received a money prize to support the development of his first fashion collection. Diesel Award winner Justus Kantakoski’s denim outfit. Guillaume Roujas This is not the first time the Italian denim specialist joins forces with Aalto University. Earlier this year, the Window Project contest marked the debut of the partnership. As part of the competition, students were asked to design mock window concepts for Diesel’s Helsinki store, located in the city’s Mannerheimintie main street. Back then, the prize was bestowed to Jim Bergstrom and, as a result, his project was implemented at the store earlier this month and will be available for the next twoFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Fox News Breaking News Alert
Fox News Breaking News AlertFormer Mississippi Republican Sen. Thad Cochran, who served in Congress for more than 45 years before retiring last year, has di
05/30/19 7:55 AM
Nick Graham’s Journey From Jokester to Entrepreneur
NEW YORK — Nick Graham offered up a preview of the title and cover art for his new book — “If You Don’t Ask, the Answer Is No: True Stories About Changing the World…and Its Underwear” — during a Fashion Group International event Wednesday night. One problem though: The book isn’t actually written yet. But that didn’t stop the founder of Joe Boxer and the Nick Graham collection from offering up an hour of lively stories and motivational moments from his career. Those stories will be the crux of the book — when the designer actually finds the time to sit down and write it, he said. Since his childhood in Canada as the son of two immigrants from England, Graham has found innovative ways to get noticed. That includes everything from the world’s fastest fashion show — 1.2 seconds by a human cannonball — to a presentation at 30,000 feet on a transatlantic Virgin Atlantic flight, shooting underwear into space on a rocket to 126,000 feet, and other off-the-wall antics that have come to define his career. Most recently, he has shown his lifelong love for science by teaming with astronaut Buzz Aldrin, Bill Nye and NASA for collections inspired byFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Lady Gaga Haus of Gaga Fashion Exhibition Opens in Las Vegas
When Lady Gaga’s longtime creative team, Haus of Gaga, accepted the task of erecting a shrine to the singer’s style on the Las Vegas Strip, fashion director Nicola Formichetti turned to her famous Little Monsters for help choosing which looks would get the time capsule treatment. “There are a few [fans] that have all of the information,” he explained Wednesday during a preview of the exhibition at the Park MGM. “We’ve been working very closely to find out their favorite costumes, everything has been documented by them.” Those fans can now see their efforts realized at Haus of Gaga/Las Vegas, a permanent collection of costumes, gowns, headwear and accessories that her team has been archiving since Gaga’s breakthrough 2008 “Just Dance” video. Haus of Gaga in Las Vegas Denise Truscello “It’s been a dream to create all of her outfits in one place,” Formichetti said, standing alongside such signature looks as Franc Fernandez’s 2010 MTV Video Music Awards “meat dress” (it’s since been dried, dyed and turned into jerky) and glass-encased designs by Alexander McQueen, Nasir Mazhar, Giorgio Armani and Philip Treacy, among others, that have been worn onstage or on the red carpet. While Haus of Gaga/Las Vegas hearkens back to the days of the city’sFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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NBC and Lacoste Create Shoppable TV for French Open
Three weeks after unveiling Shoppable TV, a new offering that blends television and e-commerce, NBC Universal launched its first official project under the initiative — a Lacoste shopping experience during the 2019 French Open from Roland-Garros. The “on-air shoppable moment” will air during televised matches featuring Novak Djokovic, the Serbian tennis star and Lacoste brand ambassador. The model works via QR codes that show up during the broadcast, so viewers can scan them with their mobile devices and go immediately online to browse or buy. The transactions are handled directly on Lacoste’s web site. “We are thrilled to officially launch Shoppable TV by pairing two iconic brands: Lacoste and the French Open,” said Josh Feldman, executive vice president, head of marketing and advertising creative of NBC Universal. “For the first time ever, tennis fans can shop the Lacoste x Novak Djokovic Collection while watching him play in real time.” Coordinated in advance, the athlete’s outfits — in bright orange, and black and white — come from the French sportswear line. The idea is to give consumers immediate opportunities to shop them or other items in the collection. The French Open comes as Djokovic marks his anniversary as the face of Lacoste, a role he assumed inFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Watches of Switzerland Valued at 647 Million Pounds on London Stock Exchange
LONDON – Watches of Switzerland opened for trading on Thursday morning at a valuation of 647 million pounds on the London Stock Exchange. It priced its shares at 2.70 pounds each, near the upper end of its expected price range of 2.50 pounds to 2.77 pounds announced on Tuesday. “We had been anticipating it to be honest,” said Brian Duffy, chief executive officer of Watches of Switzerland Group, referring to the share prices. “We got a great response from the investor community and I think we’re quietly confident about what we were doing. Having said that, it’s a relief to actually see it happen and see our name up there and a plus rather than a minus.” The luxury watch retailer said that 34 percent of its issued share capital will be floated immediately after admission to trading and it will be trading under the ticker “WOSG”. The first priority for the company will be to cut debt with the 155 million pounds that has been raised. “The first priority is to repay a bond. So overall less debt, which will be a good situation for our business and going forward, selling down 15 percent of the holding, but we’re not specifically doingFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Sasha Siem’s Path to ‘Holy’
Sasha Siem is changing her tune. “The first album was very much about me, and looking at my young contemporary female friends going through that coming-of-age process, what it’s like to find and lose love over and over again,” says the classically trained British musician, who releases her third album “Holy” on June 7. The long-haired brunette was in New York — where she began writing and recording “Holy” while living in Brooklyn — for 24 hours, and was set to return to London later that evening. “And the second album was almost operatic in its construction: a tale of two lovers and the epic narrative that they go through and falling in love, falling out of love,” she continues. “And then finally, with this album, it feels like it’s gone even further to be about the we, and the community aspect, and what are those elements of humanity or our existence that we all share.” The communal aspect is underscored by the literal tuning of her new album, which was recorded in 432Hz. (The previous albums used standard tuning.) The album is genre-defiant but leans pop, and Siem, who also writes music for orchestras, began working with the unconventional tuning while studyingFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Kim Jones Toasts New Issue of A Magazine Curated By
London – Kim Jones is the latest to oversee the curation and edit of A Magazine Curated By, now in its 19th issue. On Wednesday, following an afternoon book signing at Selfridges and a meal with his team at the Delaunay, a famed Austrian brasserie, the designer threw a fun, intimate party at Two Temple Place, an extraordinary former private dwelling alongside the River Thames. Celebrities from Bella Hadid and Lottie Moss to Kelly Osborne and Lily Allen — most noticeable with a dark pixie crop and a $35,000 metallic Saddle bag casually slung over her shoulder — made an appearance. There were plenty of other full Dior looks on show. YouTube star Icykof, known for his channel The Unknown Vlogs, which documents youth culture, wore a sheer white Dior monogram top, tucked into old Versace trousers, complete with an Alyx belt and Dior necklace and a Saddle bag. A testament to Jones’ loyal friendships, several of his long-standing team members (Lucy Beedle, Edward Crutchley) and oldest acquaintances (Lulu Kennedy, Jefferson Hack, Cozette McCreery) also showed up, as did London designers Marta Jabowski, Bianca Saunders, Matty Bovan and Ryan Lo. “I’ve known Kim for at least six years since he was at Louis Vuitton,”Follow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Wednesday, 29 May 2019
DKNY Debuts Pride Capsule in Support of Hetrick-Martin Institute
DKNY will launch a Pride capsule in support of Hetrick-Martin Institute today to acknowledge WorldPride NYC 2019. WorldPride commemorates the 50th anniversary of the Stonewall uprising and a half century of LGBTQ+ liberation. DKNY’s summer capsule consists of apparel, accessories, footwear, eyewear, intimates and jewelry, all emblazoned with the Pride flag, a global symbol of the LGBTQ+ community’s diversity. Hetrick-Martin, America’s oldest and largest LGBTQ+ youth services organization, is integrated in the collection’s campaign and digital content, and a donation has been made by DKNY to Hetrick-Martin to support its mission. This year, for the first time in its 20-year history, WorldPride, the world’s largest LGBTQ+ festival, will come to the U.S., landing in New York City, the birthplace of DKNY. WorldPride will comprise more than 50 events over the entire month of June and will culminate in the NYC Pride march on June 30. In the corresponding campaign, DKNY translates the Pride flag into color-drenched portraits of six representatives of HMI’s “Music Masters” art program, each of whom pose against backdrops of strong color with dramatic light effects. The campaign includes still portraits, lifestyle imagery and video and will expand on digital through a celebrity and influencer seeding initiative. Throughout the offering are bold graphics andFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Jewelry Adapts as New Trend Sees Women Buying Own Diamond Rings
The jewelry industry’s reliance on the world’s wealthy has forced its hand in adapting to many new social codes: shifting wealth demographics, indifferent Millennials, delayed engagements and widespread casualization in fashion. One of the biggest changes the industry has capitalized on is the rise of women purchasing jewelry for themselves, which has grown to represent up to half of global jewelry sales, according to De Beers, altering the way jewelry is consumed. While the industry now relies on self-purchase to remain afloat, one holdout style had been too mired in social coding to whet women’s appetites — but now that has begun changing, too. Diamond rings — the stalwart symbol of love and commitment — are becoming an increasingly popular choice among women purchasing jewelry for themselves. Attracted to their status, design and investment, women are favoring highly stylized rings that prominently feature diamonds. Big jewelry houses, retailers and designers are tailoring their assortments to get ahead of the trend. “It’s a bit of a liberation in terms of what works for them, what’s acceptable for them and what they are comfortable with. Married or not, women are buying diamond rings for themselves now without limitations,” said Daphne Lingon, Christie’s head of jewelry forFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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John Hardy Sets Up Shop in Las Vegas
Luxury jeweler John Hardy has opened a new retail location in Las Vegas in The Forum Shops at Caesars. “Our choices of distribution have been strategic, introducing John Hardy to a clientele with an appetite for sustainably made luxury products — especially jewelry enthusiasts,” said chairman Robert Hanson. “The Forum Shops at Caesars Palace provides us access to a robust, sophisticated international and local audience. We are very excited to see how this market engages with our distinctive and meaningful brand story.” Similar to all other John Hardy boutiques, the new 1,200-square-foot Las Vegas location will use the space to immerse guests in the brand’s heritage by presenting its handcrafted jewelry in an interactive gallery-like setting. The store will include a version of the brand’s Artisan in Residence Program, similar to the one at its flagship in New York’s SoHo. The artisan program will be situated at the front of the Vegas store. “Each of John Hardy’s boutiques was designed to demonstrate the physical expression of the brand’s inspiring story,” Hanson explained, adding that the Las Vegas store will have an artisan on staff year-round. “Each store hosts a work area showcasing the art of our jewelry-making techniques, with artisans joining for special liveFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Couture Show Unveils Education Series CoutureTalks
The 2019 edition of the Couture show will see the introduction of CoutureTalks, a curated education series covering a variety of subjects that are relevant to the jewelry community. Taking place at the show during breakfasts and lunches at the Wynn Las Vegas, these sessions will focus on of-the-moment topics such as ethical and environmental sustainability, lab grown and mined diamonds, and trend forecasting. “We wanted to be extremely thoughtful and strategic about rolling out this type of initiative,” Brousseau explained. “We needed to ensure that the subjects we’re focusing on are relevant to our community, and that the speakers and presentations approach these conversations in a unique way that speaks specifically to our audience; we’re confident that the curated programs we’re implementing are aligned with these goals.” On Friday morning, the series will kick off with a discourse on the benefits of lab grown and mined diamonds. Moderated by GIA’s Cathryn Ramirez, the panelists include Sally Morrison from Light Box, Rachel Aaron from Canada Mark, Laura Freedman from Broken English and designer Stephen Webster. On Friday afternoon, Paola De Luca from Trendvision will lead a presentation on the effects of the digital era and globalization on emerging phenomena, digital culture and designFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Santoni Collaborates With Sofía Sanchez de Betak
Classic Italian shoe brand Santoni has been hard at work to modernize its image. Now adding to its multiseason collaboration with former Rochas and Schiaparelli designer Marco Zanini is a collection designed in partnership with influencer Sofía Sanchez de Betak, known to her followers as “Chufy.” Betak and Santoni’s collection, launching next week with a private luncheon in New York and hitting stores in December, is intended to promote sustainability and ocean conservation. Derbies, boots and sandals come in a bluish palette to evoke ocean life and are packaged in boxes made of recycled material. Prices will range from $612 to $1,780. A portion of proceeds will be donated to an environmental conservatory foundation that has not yet been decided. “Sustainability is a key thing in contemporary culture and we all need to live in more sustainable way,” said chief executive officer and president Giuseppe Santoni. “We met Sofía while shooting an ad campaign and got the same feeling about the planet with a special focus on reducing our use of plastic. We respect this in the company in every aspect, work with solar panel energy and eco-friendly boxes,” he added. “They are definitely a more classic brand, but they called me and I amFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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The WWD CEO Summit to Focus on Movers + Makers
The Movers + Makers are preparing to gather in Manhattan for the annual WWD Apparel & Retail CEO Summit at the InterContinental New York Barclay hotel Oct. 29 and 30. This year’s theme, Movers + Makers, highlights the people who are powering the fashion business through a continuing whirlwind of change. And while almost everything could change between now and October, some constants can be expected to remain. Generation Alpha will still loom as the next big consumer base. Technological reinvention will have everyone on high alert. Sustainability will be a goal still in the industry’s future. And the geopolitics of the moment will remain confounding to brands with global ambitions. To parse what it all means — from designer to streetwear to mass — there will be a slate of speakers responsible for some of fashion’s largest and most influential businesses. Among the chief executive officers taking the stage to help unpack the future will be: Manny Chirico, PVH Corp. Marc Lore, Walmart e-commerce U.S. Patrice Louvet, Ralph Lauren Corp. Alessandro Bogliolo, Tiffany & Co. Calvin McDonald, Lululemon Athletica Inc. Helena Foulkes, Hudson’s Bay Co. Art Peck, Gap Inc. Silvio Campara, Golden Goose John McPheters, co-ceo Stadium Goods Also weighing in from the executive suite will be Jamie Nordstrom, president of storesFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Ones to Watch: Couture Jewelry Show 2019
“We focus on quality over quantity,“ said Gannon Brousseau, senior vice president of Emerald Expositions and couture director when discussing the show’s growth over the years. Attendance wise, the executive said, the show draws around 4,000, and that the only change he sees is some retailers may send a few less people than in years past. “The magic is in the curation of it,” he explained of the show. “We are really careful on how big we get. We try and stay the same in terms of volume year after year. We grow maybe five exhibitors a year.” Adding, “We work diligently to ensure that we partner with designers and brands with an unprecedented level of talent and prestige, as well as retailers who represent only the best of the best, and our attending media are among the most knowledgeable and engaged in this industry.” While the show’s overall growth may be controlled, it does add a healthy number of new brands to the mix each year. This year sees the show add 60 new brands into the fold, which includes several timepiece names, as well as a handful of showrooms that have increased the number of brands represented at the show. Here, WWD highlightsFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Vibram Looks to Capture New Generation of Consumers
Vibram, the premium shoe sole producer and performance footwear brand based in Italy, is making a push for renewed awareness. The company last year brought on Fabrizio Gamberini, formerly U.S. chief executive officer for eyewear giant Marcolin, as its U.S. president and global chief brand officer. Now relocated to Vibram’s U.S. headquarters outside Boston, Gamberini is putting his own mark on the company’s Stateside business. On May 17, Gamberini along with Vibram’s owners the Bramani family, marked the opening of a new 4,000-square-foot experiential store situated in the middle of Boston University’s campus at 840 Commonwealth Ave. While Vibram has a marked presence in the U.S. as the exclusive producer of shoe soles for the U.S. military, the company now hopes to grow its resonance among young people. Its new store is intended to help increase awareness among local Millennials and serve as something of a talent incubator for BU’s engineering students. The company operates a Massachusetts manufacturing plant that employs some 300 individuals who fulfill Vibram’s U.S. military contract. “Boston is very wealthy with colleges spread throughout city. The young population is around 255,000 students in Boston plus normal residents. The colleges are pretty experimental with fashion, we know they are trendFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
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Bridget Foley’s Diary: Marc Jacobs on THE Retail Launch, THE Collaborations, THE Future
It has been teased since December, most recently on Tuesday night when Marc Jacobs posted three new photographs to Instagram. Today, the designer’s new collection, THE Marc Jacobs, makes its debut at retail. The launch marks a major milestone for the Jacobs brand. The timing seems perfect, Jacobs having put together a string of strong runway collections, including fall’s masterful outing, along with an interlude that fascinated across generations, in the form of resort 2019’s look-for-look redux of the seminal grunge collection he designed for Perry Ellis for spring 1993. That collection got the wheels turning for THE Marc Jacobs, which, for those familiar with the history of the designer and his brand, registers as something of a redux itself. Not in line-for-line reissues (although there is an archival component), but in its positioning both within the greater market, and within the Marc Jacobs brand itself. “I want either a beautifully made version of a very simple thing or I want something very out there. That’s it, that’s what I like,” Jacobs said during a phone chat on Tuesday afternoon, describing his consumer approach to fashion. The dichotomy applies as well to his long-standing vision of his work. He and his, longtime businessFollow WWD on Twitter or become a fan on Facebook.
from WWDWWD http://bit.ly/2EHq26h
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